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Re: Thermador RED30VRS Electric Range Oven dead
Its probally the receptacle,in which you plug the element into if its pitted or coroded it wont work,do you here a sizzling sound when on,its the contacts shorting out,if this helps please vote me a fix ya
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A main wire burned off will cause both elements to not heat at the same time. It could be at the back going to one element then jump off and go to the second element. Or some times the manufacturer runs the wiring to the front on the controls, and a 3rd area that they could have a common tie point is right where the power comes into the oven. When this usually happens you'll have ok burners on top and no power completed to the bottom. OR It could be a switch that's bad and not allowing power to carry on to your oven controls at the thermostat. Let me know
Most likely one of the elements in the lower oven. For this job you will require basic tools and a multimeter to check the individual elements resistance. This Must be done with the oven isolated from the mains supply Before beginning work. remove the screws holding the element in place carefully pull a few CM's of cable through the holes in the oven bulkhead and disconnect the element from the supply cables. With the element out check for short circuit and breakdown from Mains supply to earth. Using the multimeter on resistance setting check between the terminals and the outer casing there should be no connection here at all. any lower than 2M ohms is asking for trouble. Check the heating elements by probing onto either end of the element and reading the result back as an example a 230V 2500W element should read around 21 Ohms. Elements are not repairable internally.
Depending on how the element blew, in some cases it will also ruin the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. This is your clock assembly. The EOC controls all the oven functions on electric ranges. There are separate relay controlled circuits on the board that control the BAKE and BROIL functions. The EOC will still display the time and the broiler may still work, but the bake feature will not. My bet, it the relay for the bake element, or a component in the bake circuit is blown. There should be a schematic diagram located inside the operator console, or on the back of the range for assistance in troubleshooting. I would recommend you inspect the EOC for any burned components or wires.
Now...there is a remote possibility you've purchased a bad element (it does happen). A resistance check from terminal to terminal should yield a high resistance in the K ohms range. Next, check the resistance between one terminal and the outer shield of the element. You should get an infinite reading. Anything else, you probably have an element that is shorted.
I hope this information is helpful to you in some way. If you have questions please let me know.
Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number
WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks for using fixya.
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Okay...a few more questions. Are both elements NOT working? That is, BROIL and BAKE features are now dead? If so, you may an Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board failure. This is the clock/timer for your range. All the oven features are typically controlled by the EOC.
If its just one element. More than likely the element has blown. You will need to unplug the range and remove the back panel in order to access the terminal lugs where the elements penetrate the back of the oven wall. There are a pair of terminals for each element. A resistance check across these terminals will vary, but should read something on the K ohm scale. If the continuity readings are infinite (open) replace the element. I have a link under my "Tips and Tricks" that explains how to do this, if needed.
Are you confused yet? If so, please post back and let me know.
The oven features on electric ranges are controlled by the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. Commonly referred to as the clock assembly. Each function (bake or broil) is usually controlled by a separate circuit. If you have installed the new element, and can rule out the possibility that you may have received a defective part, the EOC may be a likely culprit. Before you go tearing the console apart, however, double check your wiring on the element you just replaced and take a resistance check of the element. Measure on the element terminals with the wires removed. The reading should be in the K ohm range (resistance will vary between manufacturers). Then measure from one of the element terminal to the outer shell of the element. If it reads a short (0 ohms) you have a grounding problem and probably have a bad element. If you are confused by any of this, please post back with any questions you may have. I hope this helps you.
PS There should be a tech sheet inside the operator console to assist with troubleshooting.
magic, start with the basics first. See if you have the right power going to the oven. At the terminal block on the oven, where the cord attaches, you should have 120V from the center terminal to each end terminal. You should have 240V across the 2 end terminals. If you don't have this, there is your problem. If that's ok, check the voltage at the bake element terminals in back. Should be 240V when in bake. If that checks ok, then it would be the element itself. Check it, with power off and wires disconnected from the element it will ohm at approx. 20 to 22.6 ohms. If you don't have the power at the element then I would suspect the oven controller. The fact that it's heating to 170 degrees leads me to believe that you are missing a leg of power. Catriver.
The problem in either a bad relay on the control board or a bad bake element. You can use an ohm meter to check for resistance on the bake element. Any resistance means it is ok. Check for 240 volts to bake element. If element checks ok then replace the control board.
Sometimes in self clean it can burn out the element. Need to check the element with an ohm meter and see if it shows resistance. If it shows open then the element is bad. If it shows resistance then the element is ok. Next see if you are getting 220 volts to the element when in bake mode. If you are not getting 220 volts then the control is bad.
In alot of ovens preheat will cause the both the broil and bake element to come on. You are most likely getting heat from the broil element. This means either the bake element is bad or the relay on the oven control is bad. If the element shows resistance with an ohm meter then replace the oven control board.