MY BUILT-IN SMEG DWI 410 BUILT-IN DISHWASHER TRIPS THE RCD WHICH PROTECTS THE CIRCUIT THAT IT'S ON, LATE IN THE WASHING CYCLE. (THE RCD OPERATES AT 30 ma). THE MACHINE WORKS PERFECTLY FOR ABOUT AN HOUR THEN THERE IS A PHUT FROM THE MACHINE AND THE RCD TRIPS THE CIRCUIT THAT THE DISHWASHER (AND OTHER KITCHEN SOCKETS) ARE ON. THERE IS ALSO BRIEFLY A BRIEF AND FAINT SMELL OF BURNING FROM THE MACHINE. I'VE HAD THE MACHINE APART AND THERE'S NO OBVIOUS SIGNS OF LEAKS OR BURNING. THE RCD RESETS WITHOUT A PROBLEM. AS THE MACHINE WORKS FINE IN THE RINSE ONLY PROGRAMME, I'M THINKING THAT ESCAPING HOT STEAM IN THE LATER STAGES OF THE WASHING PROGRAMMES MAY BE GETTING INTO THE ELECTRICS. THE MACHINE IS 3 YEARS OLD. DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY OTHER THOUGHTS AS TO WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM?
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When you say "trips out" do you mean the circuit breaker trips? If so the breaker in the electrical box may be bad. Also do you have anything on that circuit pulling high amps when the dishwasher is running? Also when does it "trip out" during a pump cycle or when the heating element cycle starts?
If the pump does not work at all then the pump may have went out. If it happens when the heating element cycle starts then it may be the circuit is overloading or the breaker is bad.
check manual,your water hardness and salt/detergent quantities can make a big difference,theres usually some switches you can adjust for salt/detergent,if not check for partial blockage in pump etc,may be not enough water comming through.
there will be a capacitor. usually attached to the motor but sometimes mounted at the back. it is a cylindrical object about 3-4 ins long and about 11/2 ins diameter smeg tech should be able to find the problem but will be expensive
This is usually the heating element - corrosion lets small amounts of water through the element jacket, making the mineral insulation inside slightly damp. When the machine applies power to the element, enough current leaks from live to earth to trip the RCD.
In the absence of a proper electrician's insulation tester (a DVM in ohms mode doesn't test at a high enough voltage to give a meaningful result) the best way to prove this fault is to (carefully, and with the power off!) disconnect and tie back the wires that go to the element, then run the machine and see if it gets any further in the cycle.