Hello, The upper arm sleeve that came with my 3MQ1-LF failed. How can I get a replacement?

HOW TO FOLD AND UNFOLD THE ELLIPTICAL

When the elliptical is not in use, the frame can be folded out of the way. First, lift the latch under each pedal arm, and lift the pedal arms off the adjustment sleeves on the crank arms.

Next, raise the pedal arms until they touch the magnets on the upper body legs; the magnets will hold the pedal arms in place.

Then, hold the handle and lift the frame until it locks in a vertical position. To use the elliptical, first hold the handle, press the latch button, and lower the frame.

Next, pull the pedal arms off the magnets on the upper body legs.

Then, lift the latches under the pedal arms, and set the pedal arms on the adjustment sleeves on the crank arms.

Release the latches, and make sure that the pedal arms are securely connected to the adjustment sleeves.

Will be attaching a link to your manual also

http://www.sportsmith.net/images/product_support/ProForm/PFEVEL959101%20-%20PROFORM%20500%20ZLE%20ELLIPTICAL/PFEVEL95910.1-307585.pdf

are you sure its the bushings making the noise? first off you dont grease the bushings. a lot of the squeaking i have seen comes from the ball joints. that generally means they need to be replaced. you need to make a real inspection of the front suspension. none of the parts that come on these cars have grease fittings. usually the upper strut bushings are the first to go. like i said, you need to make an inspection. you may have parts that are failing. this can be dangerous if one fails. there are bushings, 2 each, on both the upper and lower control arms. the lowers are where the arm attaches to the frame. the uppers are attached to the upper strut mount. generally you would replace the complete control arm assemblys

Hello Alan - Will the spray arm rotate freely or is it damaged? If so, you might have to remove and replace the spray arm assemblies. The top spray arm typically starts to function when the unit is in rinse or wash cycle. If for some reason the top rack is not getting clean, there is a possibility that it is not working properly. The top spray arm is either blocked by pots/pans or not enough water pressure is being pump meaning that the flow of water is not making it to the upper spray arm. If you tap the delivery tube that feeds this nozzle and the water pressure jumps immediately, then the problem may lie with a faulty pump or impeller. Should all basic troubleshooting measures fail contact a certified technician to narrow down the precise issue before investing in parts that may or may not be the root cause.

for what make and model?and what arm?

price

you will need a pitman arm puller, tie rod separator and a good set sockets(6 point preffered)and some penetrating oil, measure all distances between points before removal,and get the vehicle aligned

This is manual is for the Life Fitness unit that you have (I have the same one) but the images in the manual don't have the Life Fitness branding on them. The unit was made for Life Fitness by Microlife USA.

http://www.microlifeusa.com/files/manual/files/3MQ1-LF_IB.pdf

To erase the monitor's memory, press and hold the "M" button until the letters "CL" appear on the screen. Release and press the "M" button again. The monitor will beep twice, indicating that the memory is now empty.

I've done front end work. You may need a ball joint press, to remove the lower ball joint off the lower control arm and install or press the new one on. The upper ones you will have to chisel the the tops of the riviets off and drill though them unless they're on with nuts and bolts. It is easier to have the upper control arm off the car to do this also because the upper control bushings may need replacing also. You can get those off with a air chisel and on with a vise and a 5 pound sledge hammer and a sleeve on the bushing.(They make a bushing press which is better.) If you don't have air take the upper arms to a muffler shop. Before I had air, I took my arms to a local tire shop, he took the old ones off and put the new ones on for $20.

I purchased a Casio Pathfinder solar/atomic watch, with compass, altimeter, barometer, thermometer, model 1200T-7WC (titanium).
Has the titanium band - on this particular band each link is somewhat waveshaped {i.e., there are 2 "arms" from the link making contact with the middle part of the link above (above meaning towards the watch body), and 1 arm fitting between the 2 arms of the next link down). Unlike described in the first solution, the pin is not split, but solid (doesn't look like a slotted screw on 1 end, so the solution at http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Casio-S-935L-Watch-Band is no help). Here's what to do if you have this band:

1. Note: before you start, be advised there is a tiny loose 1/8" part (sleeve) that will fall out as you pull the links apart, so work over an appropriate surface to "catch" it. Push pin (from the upper "arrow end) of one of the removeable links (those with the arrows on the backside) out of its hole with a fine poker (I used a 1/32" jeweler's screwdriver, an unbent paperclip would also work, just more likely to bend as you push pin out). This takes some force to do - in my case, after pushing, the pin projected out about 1/2 of it's length, I used needle-nosed pliers to gently pull it out the rest of the way). CAREFUL - once pin is removed and you pull the link away from the one above, a small (1/8") constriction sleeve should fall out of the center arm of the link above. SAVE THIS SLEEVE!

2. Using the same procedure, remove the pin from the bottom end of the link you're removing. again, SAVE THE SLEEVE.

3. to rejoin the band once the link is removed, look at the single/middle "arm" of the upper link, looking for the hole where the pin goes through. One side of the hole should be noticeably larger/wider than the other side - this is where you will place the SLEEVE - I used tweezers, or needle-nosed pliers will work - it will drop into hole. Keep this upright so that sleeve doesn't fall out, and slide the 2 arms of the lower link in place around the center arm.

4. Slide the pin you removed into one of the outer link arm holes - I found it easier if I started from below, pushing it into the center arm - it will stop when it reaches that 1/8" constriction sleeve. I set the extruded end on the pin on a magazine (i.e., slightly padded surface) and then pushed the top side of the band down, forcing the pin through the constriction sleeve and up into the upper arm hole, and Voila, your band is reconnected. The sleeve is important (without the sleeve in place, the pin will simply fall back out).