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Miele w 1926 gasket replacement instrructions

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bbl242003
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SOURCE: need waterpump for my 2001 miele 1926 can be used

This is a really common problem that most people send hundreds when they can fix it themselves. Power off your washer, put it on its side. Your going to see four to six silver bolts with hex heads located in the center holding in a plastic device known as the filter assembly. Remove the screws and find any hair inside the assembly. Remove the hair and put the screws back in. Even the smallest amount of hair inside the filter/drain assembly will cause this problem.

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

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1 Answer

Need waterpump for my 2001 miele 1926 can be used


This is a really common problem that most people send hundreds when they can fix it themselves. Power off your washer, put it on its side. Your going to see four to six silver bolts with hex heads located in the center holding in a plastic device known as the filter assembly. Remove the screws and find any hair inside the assembly. Remove the hair and put the screws back in. Even the smallest amount of hair inside the filter/drain assembly will cause this problem.

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1 Answer

My miele w3033 has mold in the rubber gasket. wha...


hi,

you can purchase a cleaning product to run through the machine but white vinegar on a 95c wash also works.don't put any clothes in it though. if it has eaten into the door seal too much you can easily have them replaced. always leave the door open after each wash for about half an hour to let it dry out otherwise a damp environment is perfect for bacteria to develop. lots of hot washes and the door open prevents this.

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To check the tension of the belt, Switch OFF or pull off the power cord for safety. Open the access cover , press the belts to check. Replace it if necessary

Idea:
If the belt slips the speed of the spinner is slow.

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Kenmore Elite HE4T Washing Machine Diagnostic Test Didn't complete and clothes aren't spun as dry as in the past I have a Kenmore Elite HE4T washing machine and I noticed that recently it isn't getting all of the clothes completely dry from the final spin cycle. Thus, the dryer has to run through two cycles to get the clothes dry. I did a bunch of research and made sure there weren't any kinks or blockages in the drain lines; and opened up the bottom of the washer and cleaned out the drain cleanout. I found a few pennies, but everything seemed to be working ok. I ran a load and had the bottom open so that I could make sure the motor, drain and belt were all working properly. The drain does get the water out of the washer, so the clothes aren't sitting in water, they just don't seem to be spun as fast or as long as they used to. I always put it on the "extra high" spin setting no matter which type of load I run. So, I found a way to run the diagnostic test on the washer and it went through C0-C5 (the agitation step) and all worked great, until it wouldn't come out of C5 after at least 10 minutes and go thru C6-C8. I had to cancel the diagnostic test and hit the "drain and spin" button to get all of the water back out of the washer. BTW, the "drain and spin" seems to get the clothes a bit drier than when I have it run through the "normal" cycle with the "extra high" spin. If anyone has any other thoughts, I would really appreciate it. This unit is in a small space with the dryer attached so to take it out and do repairs is a pretty big hassle. It has had a new control board and two new fill valves in the 10+ years that I have owned it. Questions I have: 1.should I remove the entire drain pump to make sure there isn't anything lodged in it? 2. could it be the belt slipping slightly and keeping the spin from reaching its 1200 RPMs? 3. Anything else I may be missing???

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