Tecumseh Snowblower Snow Blower Starter Handle (Tecumseh) Logo
Anonymous Posted on Jan 25, 2011

We have Tecumseh TSH 359/22272/81 motor on a Stiga snowblower. It did start and work but blew most of the oil out. Now it wont start. Where can I find new motor or parts, motor seems to have two axels to front, one for the rolling and another for the blowing. Greetings from Finland - (funland) - we have plenty of snow - anyone like to buy it??? Kallekalamie(s)

  • 3 more comments 
  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2011

    THE NUMBER OF THIS blown motor is:
    HS 50-67199E SER 3181B
    it is with two shafts

  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2011

    The cost of a new B

  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2011

    Hello Kelly, sorry the opposite way - the engine does have two shafts but doesnt fit straight in the place and we have to be sure before ordering on our own risk, if it fits. It seems to be a problematic mounting and on the other hand, the "assumed" price with carriage gets up to 400 euros - too much for an old blower and we are lookin for a cheaper solution - meanwhile I do get good physical exercise with snowshovel and frisk luft(air) as the swedes say!
    What do you think of the solution on Vincentos sites? I think it is marvellous!!!

  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2011

    Hello KELLY, YOU SEEM TO BE A REAL ENGINE ENTHUSIASTIC TO go on this problem of mine. Thanks for that. Here new blowers are over 1.000 euros, and most of them sold for this season, all I assume. A second hand used one costs some 700-900 euros, but we thought that the body of the blower is in such good condition that if we could get a 150 USD engine with a reasonable shipping from the states, we would try that Vincentines idea. Even though it might eat rubber, a belt once a year or twice is still only 5-10 euros each.

    Anyway I will check out the Robin you mentioned and eventually get to bed, its 01 am here. Good night. and THANKS!

  • Anonymous Feb 25, 2011

    thanks, I´ll be in contact!

×

1 Answer

Kelly

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  • Master 3,740 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 29, 2011
Kelly
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Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

The fact that the engine blew out most of the oil during normal operation is an indication that there is a problem with the crankcase breather. You can usually resolve this by removing the breather from the side of the engine at the base of the valves and cleaning it with engine degreaser and carb cleaner. What I think happened was there was a bit of condensation in your breather and it FROZE in the closed position forcing the crank case to over-pressurize and porting the oil into the breather.

If by chance you over-serviced the engine oil before the last operation it will present the symptom you describe. Also if you tipped the unit more than 30 degrees.

It most likely will not start now from an oil fouled plug.

You can use this manual for locating "How to" repair your engine:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

Here is what the service manual says on page 82.

BREATHER PASSING OIL

1. Check the oil level, make sure the engine is not overfilled. Also verify that the viscosity rating on the container of

the oil being used is to specification.

2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid prolonged use at a severe angle.

3. Check the engine R.P.M. setting for excessive R.P.M. using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the

R.P.M. settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust the

high and low R.P.M. as necessary.

4. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals, or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be evident; however, the leak

may prevent the engine from achieving a partial crankcase vacuum.

5. Check the breather for damage, dirty condition, or improper installation. The oil return hole(s) must face down.

6. Check the engine compression using a compression tester. If the engine has weak compression, determine the

cause of weak compression: worn rings, leaking head gasket, or leaking valves. Follow the compression tester's
procedure.

I can help more... the engine number you passed did not cross.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

  • 30 more comments 
  • Kelly
    Kelly Jan 29, 2011

    The side mounted Oil Breather is on page 91 of the manual link in my first post. Make sure to clean the reed and cover as shown in figure 48 with engine degreaser and carb cleaner.



    After cleaning or replacing the spark plug this should get you going again.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Jan 29, 2011

    One more thought:



    Sometimes a carb problem will allow fuel to leak into the crank case after sitting for a long time and the oil will have gas in the oil. Sniff check the oil. If it smells like gas you may also have a sticking carb float or float needle.



    Kelly

  • Anonymous Jan 30, 2011

    Thank You Kelly for giving the hint, I supposed I put a little too much oil in, so this seems to be a rational explanation. I will check this out, meanwhile have cleaned the carb, it was ok, and also have to find parts for the broken manual-starting-rope/wheel.
    Greetings
    Juuso

  • Kelly
    Kelly Jan 30, 2011

    As far as recoil parts these are the part numbers for the 5hp



    The whole assembly is 590787 for snow blowers USD $29.99



    The recoil spring is 590414 USD $14.99



    The mitten Handle for the recoil is 590574 USD $3.83



    I have tried every combination of the engine number you passed and it just is not crossing. I was also a bit perplexed about your level of satisfaction as I noted the rating you gave the post.



    Kelly






  • Kelly
    Kelly Jan 30, 2011

    If you just have a broken starter rope and can get a new rope here is how to re-wind the re-coil assy.



    1. Remove the recoil assy

    2. Remove the old rope

    3. Remove the handle from the old rope.

    4. Burn the ends of the new rope with a match

    5. Pull the rope though the new handle and tie 1 small knot in the end. Pull the knot into the handle very HARD to seat the knot.

    6. Pre-wind the recoil assy clockwise until you meet resistance of the recoil spring Grip the rope spool tightly with one hand and DO NOT let go. GENTLY back off the re-coil until the rope KNOT hole lines up with the hole in the recoil rope guide. Lock the recoil starter rope pulley/spool in place with 2 hands or use a C-clamp. Better yet a 2nd person to grip the spool with both hands.

    7. Pass the new rope though the starter rope guide in the recoil assy then on through the rope knot hole.

    8. Pull the rope though far enough to tie ONE small knot in the new rope.

    9. Now pull the knot into the knot hole VERY HARD.

    10. Release the rope pulley/spool. (Rope should rewind into the recoil until it strikes the handle)

    11. Install the re-coil assy.



    Kelly

  • Anonymous Jan 30, 2011

    Thanks Kelly, I was on a journey and just took a glimpse on this, have had no time to put an effort. I am also new on this site and maybe I do not know the code to give thanks enough... sorry. I am thankful for sure, I think the difference between our european/scandinavian and american culture is, that we communicate differently concerning giving feedback. We are somehow more "jammed" and careful to say positive things and I must admit that we have something to learn in the american "positivisation", if that sort of word is usable.

    I hope you got my point. I am a total newbie on this smallmachine-thing and I do appreciate your info. Let me just get to the machine to put this in action and I will be back to you.

    Greetings
    Juuso
    "getting slow and old-fashioned"
    ;D

    PS. found the number of the machine, old as hell HS 50-67199E
    SER 3181B... it was succesfully was coverd wit a lot of moist, dirt and oil...

  • Kelly
    Kelly Jan 30, 2011

    Here is your engine parts breakdown.



    http://www.landscapepower.com/pdf/Tecums...

    The recoil PN is listed as 590473

    This does not show the individual parts to the re-coil itself.

    Here is another site with the same info:



    http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecum...



    With the exception of the starter handle... this diagram shows all of the individual parts of the re-coil assembly:

    Handle assy 590387

    http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecum...



    Now the only problem is to find a parts source in the UK region. As a global expert the fact that sites in the UK only list selective small engine parts is quite frustrating when it comes to helping people get parts in the UK region.



    Kelly

  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2011

    Thanks Kelly, at last had time to work on the thing. Did 6 hours on friday to get it rolling, yes I succeeded, but the motor didn´t stay rolling for long, as the rps rise it blew oil out still from the breather. Ok, cheked oil and put it rolling again until had to go to sleep. Yesterday I pulled a long time to get it rolling, finally it worked like a nun or like a goose, no problems, a little "weak" on the show but it worked over an hour. Then it suddenly just went off, and didn´t even "turn" anumore on the rope-wheel.... so it must have craced or got stuck inside.

    Well, anyway, could have been a little too smooth winteroil...? Now we have things to concider.... !!!

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 07, 2011

    It sounds as though either the connecting rod bearing froze or the connecting rod broke. Sad news. You have the manual if you should try to attempt to repair the engine. Things to look at are the bearing surfaces on the crankshaft journal bearing mating area and.... whether or not the connecting rod smashed a hole in the side of the block. More than 50% of connecting rod failures result in severe damage to the short block requiring replacement of same. You may be able to breathe life into the engine again.... however... without a disassembly type inspection at this point it is all guess work.



    What I think happened is that the crankcase breather allowed the crankcase to be over-pressurized to the point that the splash oil system could not splash oil onto the crankshaft rod end bearing due to the extreme internal pressure so it spalled and failed. It happens and to be honest... it may not be worth the time to repair the engine due to the damage incurred. I just wish we could have resolved the issue before it got to this point.



    Kelly

  • Anonymous Feb 07, 2011

    Thank You Kelly for walking this long aside. It seems that we are haveing a lot of physical execise here in the near future, while ther engine waits for the owner to visit ym place next week and is taking it "home". No hard feelings though, if I understood him right. I thank You at this point, You gave me good advice, I was propably not able to check all of your good points - and I am not a mechanic, I am a trubadour, thoug understand "something about something else "too. (my music f.ex at:

    Bringing a new or a used engine from the US gets quite expensive, there seems to be one used engine
    at:http://cgi.ebay.com/Bolens-Tecumseh-Snow...
    but still the cango would be 150 dollars and takes some 4-6weeks, so by that time we are already at a point of much less snow, I hope, and what the season history is normally.

    Anyway thanks for all this discussion and help. I will post a comment when we get to open the macchina.
    :D

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 07, 2011

    Check out this link...below and use your engine MODEL HS50 TYPE 67199E SER. 3181B on the form:.

    http://www.uni-power.co.uk/engine_form.h... See if they can't get you a better deal on an engine replacement or a USED engine. I sent an enquiry today and told them to quote the NEW replacement engine retail price and that I would pass that information on to you along with the link above.

    Kelly






  • Anonymous Feb 07, 2011

    Thank You Kelly!

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 09, 2011

    So far no response from the link I gave you. If you want I will keep looking. Let me know.

  • Anonymous Feb 09, 2011

    thank You Kelly for all this, and no need to go this on. We are havin a break anyway on this, cause the owner got to hospital etc...

    I did get some replies from Phil and Richard at uni-power.co.uk, the only solution they had in mind was a B

  • Anonymous Feb 09, 2011

    SOO! IT SEEMS THAT this machinery eats words - or somewhere my thumb went to a wrong point and knob!
    So I did get some replies from Phil and Richard at uni-power.co.uk, the only solution they had in mind was a B

  • Anonymous Feb 09, 2011

    i´m sorry, this system eats my reply from the bottom...!!! DISGUSTING AND FRUSTRATING!

    Thanks Kelly for your advice, I found a marvellous solution to put a one shaft engine on a place of two shaft Tecumseh at Vincentos Youtube-site: see for yourself:http://www.youtube.com/user/vinceleto#p/...

  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2011

    Hello, Kelly - Damned! This system seems to start to eat my responses!
    anyway, got a reply, a B

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 11, 2011

    This is all I got:.



    "Hello, Kelly - Damned! This system seems to start to eat my responses! anyway, got a reply, a B"



    I am assuming they came back with a suitable Briggs and Stratton engine and a price.

    Kelly

  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2011

    Hello Kelly, sorry the opposite way - the engine does have two shafts but doesnt fit straight in the place and we have to be sure before ordering on our own risk, if it fits. It seems to be a problematic mounting and on the other hand, the "assumed" price with carriage gets up to 400 euros - too much for an old blower and we are lookin for a cheaper solution - meanwhile I do get good physical exercise with snowshovel and frisk luft(air) as the swedes say!
    What do you think of the solution on Vincentos sites? I think it is marvellous!!!

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 11, 2011

    Wow 400 Euros is an outrageous price for an Engine. A brand new 6.5 hp engine including shipping in the US runs around USD $450.00 even at the higher end retailers. As far as the engine mount problems.... That is not a problem as you use a 0.250 inch plate and make an off-set mounting plate. Ustually 2 holes will line up with slotted holes in the plate and the other 2 you mount to the plate and secure the plate. You end up with 6 mounting bolts.

    Even before you responded I was thinking.. given the age of this snow blower: "Is the material condition of the snow blower worth the investment in a new engine?"

    I looked at the video of single belt drive conversion. Nice job but the narow belt drive will eat belts from what I can see. It will work... just would have an extra belt in the garage after the first season.



    I was looking for alternative engines even in the used category. Check out the Robin EY20D 5.0 Hp with PTO engine on a net search. <-Subaru engine and very good. Maybe made in China (check label) but still a good engine as they must meed Japanese quality Standards. I am still digging...on my 2nd hour already!

  • Anonymous Feb 11, 2011

    Hello KELLY, YOU SEEM TO BE A REAL ENGINE ENTHUSIASTIC TO go on this problem of mine. Thanks for that. Here new blowers are over 1.000 euros, and most of them sold for this season, all I assume. A second hand used one costs some 700-900 euros, but we thought that the body of the blower is in such good condition that if we could get a 150 USD engine with a reasonable shipping from the states, we would try that Vincentines idea. Even though it might eat rubber, a belt once a year or twice is still only 5-10 euros each.

    Anyway I will check out the Robin you mentioned and eventually get to bed, its 01 am here. Good night. and THANKS!

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 12, 2011

    I guess it was me noting the fact that I worked on these engines for years and now... after several days of research have come to the final reality that... the HS50-67199E and similar types are a piece of history that is fading into the past and they are poorly supported when it comes to parts. I even went the short block route only to find that they too are no longer in stock most places and that you would have to use your old crankcase cover and probably have to use a generic oil; seal on the 1/2 output shaft. There are other issues... and I do not at this time recommend you even travel the replacement short-block route.



    Today I searched Honda, Robin, Tecumseh, Briggs and Stratton again... hoping to find an alternative. Sadly I have come to realization.... there isn't one. I just could not convince myself these engines are being swept out of circulation on an attrition basis. I am convinced now. It was just one of those "I had to this research" things for myself and your post was the one that started the whole process. For that I say "thank you" for sending me back to the books and ensuring I got up to date on the smaller 2 shaft engine situation. It is time for me to stop bothering you but... again. thank you for the indirect education.



    Kelly

  • Anonymous Feb 12, 2011

    Wow, i never would have seen your thought, if we hadn´t had this conversation. Thanks. The world goes around and we just have to grab and stick with it... even somehow. I seem to be somehow stuck with old things in common, especially if they seem to be mendable or otherwise in shape to be put together. Good process we have had here both
    :D And going a bit wiser forward.

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 12, 2011

    I guess I am stubborn. Take a look at this engine and see if the shafts are similar to your:

    http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-...



    http://img1.classistatic.com/cps/kj/1102...



    I knew there were still NEW 2 shaft engines made by Tecumseh. The engines are the Snow King Series.



    Kelly

  • Anonymous Feb 12, 2011

    Wow! how did you? magician? I will check this out.

  • Anonymous Feb 12, 2011

    I mailed some inquiries to the link in Ontario you gave me and to China about this Robin engine. We will see what happens.

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 12, 2011

    Just so you know.. the EY20D Robin is not a 2 shaft engine. It is a good single shaft alternative to B & S or Honda if you go the friction drive single shaft engine route. Small foot print.

    Kelly


  • Anonymous Feb 12, 2011

    Yes, I noticed that thank you. And found new 1 shaft motors in finland (chinese I assume) and we will see next week what kind of shaft they have and if their motor is poss to mount and turn the gear-system on the blower-body as in vincento´s channel. The price is about 150-170 euros, so this is the most reasonable solution and fastest.

  • lenartzz Feb 25, 2011

    I have a tecumseh HS50-67199D ser 023B, two shafts. It's yours for 150euro, in Stockholm Sweden, by the way it's mounted on a Canadian movac.Unfortunatly there is no ignition on the sparkplug. regards Lennart

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 25, 2011

    I see there is a comment about an available engine in Sweden but the engine has no spark. (Parts swap from your engine maybe.) Of course you have no idea the condition of the used engine.

    Kelly

  • Anonymous Feb 25, 2011

    thanks, I´ll check it out.

  • Anonymous Feb 25, 2011

    and: HELLO LENARTZZ . HOW TO CONTACT YOU??? !!!

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