Question about Crosley CW6000 Front Load Washer

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Wont agitate was washing and it made one hell of a racket. now it wont agitate ... full of water and only hums.......please help

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My Crosley CW6000W had same symptoms. The problem was the Drain Pump Assembly, which is not mentioned above. To help target the "culprit", I did the following: Unplug the machine and turn off the water. Bail it out after you remove the wet laundry. Tip the machine and stack 3 pieces of 2x4 under the front of the machine, so you have right side access if possible {I had left, and there was a little less accessability to parts}. With a flashlight, get down and look underneath the washer. You will see the belt looped around 3 pulleys, 2 on the right and one large in the center. With your free hand {being careful that the 2x4's are securely propping your machine!} reach under and pull on the belt. It should move freely, not getting hung up. Now, mine hung up, was very stiff to rotate, and the pulley under the engine {right front} was stopped in one direction. So, I popped the belt off, lowered the machine back to a level position on the floor, and plugged it back in. I turned the knob to a spin cycle and started the machine. The motor came on with no problem {because I already had the front cover of the machine off, I could see it working smoothly, but if your cover is still on, I am sure you can hear it. When you push in the knob to shut off the test cycle, the motor may make a louder than usual click. That's okay.}. Because the center pulley had moved freely I knew it was not the transmission. Because the motor worked without unusual noises or problems, I now knew it was not the motor. Next, I removed the back access panel to get at the drain pump assembly. I used a 10 mm small socket wrench to take out 3 screws holding the pump assembly on. Do yourself a favor here, and get a couple of towels and a dishpan ready. I lifted the assembly out and using pliers, I moved the hose clamps and removed the hoses, being careful not to tear them. Water will gush out of the hoses, so be ready. Once I got the drain pump assembly out and detached from the hoses, I could see that the pulley had gone bad, causing it to cut a small groove in the underside metal, and finally, it caused an intermittent jamming situation. It clearly had been gradual, which was why I had been able to run a few loads even when my machine was making a racket of grinds,slams, creaks and whatnot while in the rinse cycle. Sounded awful! Anywho, my local appliance repair place had a replacement [it was not Maytag, it was Supco, but works fine. I paid 63.00 for it. Another parts place down the street wanted 88.00 for the same part, and I also found the actual Maytag part on line for 50.00 plus overnight shipping of 24.00= 74.00, but I went ahead with the Supco replacement. Prior to installing the new drain pump assembly, I filled it with tap water and set it on a plate for a few minutes, to make sure it had no leakage {after all that work, I was in no mood to put in a bad replacement}. Then, I went ahead and screwed it in loosely, leaving the water inside it, to avoid any accidental dry pump start up during the test cycles I thought I might run}. Then I re-hooked up the hoses and re-clamped them. I re-tilted my machine using the 2x4's, after unscrewing the drain pump assembly now full of water with hoses attached, but left it in place. I looped the belt back around all 3 pulleys, giving a tug on it to reposition the motor pulley, which gave me some slack for the re-belting process. Then I retighened the drain pump assembly again, this time with belt tension, tightening the screws tight. Because the replacement assemply was slightly different from the original Maytag, I added rubber washer rings under the screws. This was because the original part uses plastic extensions to cover the metal so no washers were needed, but I saw the wisdom of using rubber washers to encourage screw retention since washing machines vibrate alot. It went in easier than easy, and once I got the belt back onto the pulleys, I gave it another test spin. NO RACKET! Everything worked. So, I hooked up the water connection, turned it on, tested some wash and rinse cycles and everything was great. I did not close everything back up until I ran the test cycles and made sure I had re-attached the hoses tightly, so I knew I had no leaks. Good Luck with your diagnosis and repair :D
P.S. DO NOT crack the seal on the pump, thinking all you need to do is replace the pulley. The hard shell plastic is factory heat sealed because it is a water pump and all the water your machine uses is passed through this pump. If you open it and try replacing the pulley only, make darn sure you seal it water-tight again, or you will be doing the whole repair over as your pump will now be leaking water. I highly advise you avoid this scenario. Water all over the place and under machinery is a nightmare.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.

  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

if this helps pease vote me a fix ya

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

  • atomx5 Sep 15, 2010

    My Crosley CW6000W had same symptoms. The problem was the Drain Pump Assembly, which is not mentioned above. To help target the "culprit", I did the following: Unplug the machine and turn off the water. Bail it out after you remove the wet laundry. Tip the machine and stack 3 pieces of 2x4 under the front of the machine, so you have right side access if possible {I had left, and there was a little less accessability to parts}. With a flashlight, get down and look underneath the washer. You will see the belt looped around 3 pulleys, 2 on the right and one large in the center. With your free hand {being careful that the 2x4's are securely propping your machine!} reach under and pull on the belt. It should move freely, not getting hung up. Now, mine hung up, was very stiff to rotate, and the pulley under the engine {right front} was stopped in one direction. So, I popped the belt off, lowered the machine back to a level position on the floor, and plugged it back in. I turned the knob to a spin cycle and started the machine. The motor came on with no problem {because I already had the front cover of the machine off, I could see it working smoothly, but if your cover is still on, I am sure you can hear it. When you push in the knob to shut off the test cycle, the motor may make a louder than usual click. That's okay.}. Because the center pulley had moved freely I knew it was not the transmission. Because the motor worked without unusual noises or problems, I now knew it was not the motor. Next, I removed the back access panel to get at the drain pump assembly. I used a 10 mm small socket wrench to take out 3 screws holding the pump assembly on. Do yourself a favor here, and get a couple of towels and a dishpan ready. I lifted the assembly out and using pliers, I moved the hose clamps and removed the hoses, being careful not to tear them. Water will gush out of the hoses, so be ready. Once I got the drain pump assembly out and detached from the hoses, I could see that the pulley had gone bad, causing it to cut a small groove in the underside metal, and finally, it caused an intermittent jamming situation. It clearly had been gradual, which was why I had been able to run a few loads even when my machine was making a racket of grinds,slams, creaks and whatnot while in the rinse cycle. Sounded awful! Anywho, my local appliance repair place had a replacement [it was not Maytag, it was Supco, but works fine. I paid 63.00 for it. Another parts place down the street wanted 88.00 for the same part, and I also found the actual Maytag part on line for 50.00 plus overnight shipping of 24.00= 74.00, but I went ahead with the Supco replacement. Prior to installing the new drain pump assembly, I filled it with tap water and set it on a plate for a few minutes, to make sure it had no leakage {after all that work, I was in no mood to put in a bad replacement}. Then, I went ahead and screwed it in loosely, leaving the water inside it, to avoid any accidental dry pump start up during the test cycles I thought I might run}. Then I re-hooked up the hoses and re-clamped them. I re-tilted my machine using the 2x4's, after unscrewing the drain pump assembly now full of water with hoses attached, but left it in place. I looped the belt back around all 3 pulleys, giving a tug on it to reposition the motor pulley, which gave me some slack for the re-belting process. Then I retighened the drain pump assembly again, this time with belt tension, tightening the screws tight. Because the replacement assemply was slightly different from the original Maytag, I added rubber washer rings under the screws. This was because the original part uses plastic extensions to cover the metal so no washers were needed, but I saw the wisdom of using rubber washers to encourage screw retention since washing machines vibrate alot. It went in easier than easy, and once I got the belt back onto the pulleys, I gave it another test spin. NO RACKET! Everything worked. So, I hooked up the water connection, turned it on, tested some wash and rinse cycles and everything was great. I did not close everything back up until I ran the test cycles and made sure I had re-attached the hoses tightly, so I knew I had no leaks. Good Luck with your diagnosis and repair :D

    P.S. DO NOT crack the seal on the pump, thinking all you need to do is replace the pulley. The hard shell plastic is factory heat sealed because it is a water pump and all the water your machine uses is passed through this pump. If you open it and try replacing the pulley only, make darn sure you seal it water-tight again, or you will be doing the whole repair over as your pump will now be leaking water. I highly advise you avoid this scenario. Water all over the place and under machinery is a nightmare.

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