WERE IS THE ON SWITCH ON THIS UNIT - Motorola Mobility RAZR V3i Cellular Phone

SMART ENTRANCE CONTROL UNIT PFP:28596 Description EKS003A2 OUTLINE The smart entrance control unit totally controls the following body electrical system operations. ? Warning chime ? Rear window defogger and door mirror defogger ? Power door locks ? Remote keyless entry system ? Vehicle security system ? Interior lamp ? Battery saver control BATTERY SAVER CONTROL Interior Lamp/Map Lamp/Vanity Lamps The lamps turn off automatically when the interior lamp, map lamp or/and vanity lamps are illuminated with the ignition key in the OFF position, if the lamp remains lit by the door switch open signal or if the lamp switch is in the ON position for approximately 10 minutes. After lamps are turned off by the battery saver system, the lamps illuminate again when: ? Driver's door is locked or unlocked, ? Door is opened or closed, ? Key is inserted into or removed from the ignition key cylinder. Rear Window Defogger/Door Mirror Defogger Rear window defogger and door mirror defogger are turned off approximately 15 minutes after the rear window defogger switch is turned on.

Warning chime Key switch (Insert) Ignition switch (ON) Lighting switch (1st or 2nd) Seat belt buckle switch LH Front door switch LH Warning chime (located in smart entrance control unit)

Does it have power locks ?

TIME CONTROL UNIT PFP:28491 Description (Without Power Door Locks) EKS003A6 OUTLINE The time control unit totally controls the following body electrical system operations. ? Warning chime ? Rear window defogger INPUT/OUTPUT System Input Output Warning chime Key switch (Insert) Ignition switch (ON) Lighting switch (1st or 2nd) Seat belt buckle switch LH Front door switch LH Warning chime (located in time control unit) Rear window defogger Ignition switch (ON) Rear window defogger switch Rear window defogger relay

though there is power supply to the unit but don't start you have to check the door switch. if switch is ok and still unit don't start check the starting capacitor if equipped. replace if bad. if unit won't start even with a good capacitor and good door switch , then check the motor switch. if motor switch is bad replace the whole motor. switch and motor are sold together.thanks.

These gas furnaces are very simple with few moving parts. Manufacturers added another moving part, and another way for unit to fail, by adding an electrical safety switch, which interrupts electrical command to unit to operate if the switch is in the open position such as when the lower panel is removed. But sometimes the lower panel, even when in place, may not depress switch enough to keep it closed. To see if an open switch is your issue, first verify that key unit components are working -- themostat works properly, gas supply to unit, electricity to unit, gas valve opens, flame ignitor comes on, fan comes on. If yes to all, check to see if the lower panel electrical safety switch works, and is positioned correctly. If the switch, or panel, is out of place or removed, the switch should remain in open position, and the unit will not run. If panel is not pressing against switch sufficiently, switch may not close when panel is in place. Given the coefficient of expansion of the steel plate the panel is made of, the panel may cool and contract enough to hold the switch closed when the unit first turns on. As the inside of the furnace heats up, the panel and frame of the unit expand as the metal parts heat up, and as the panel moves away from the switch due to expansion, the switch opens and the unit cuts off even though the lower panel is in place. This may take several minutes, or longer. If the panel remains far enough away from the switch after the switch opens and unit stops operating, the switch could remain open and prevent power flow/themostat signal prompts from activating the unit even when the unit frame and panels cool and contract. To check to see if an open switch may be your problem, turn off power to unit, remove top panel, remove bottom panel, check switch to see that it physically opens and closes, replace lower panel, replace top panel, turn power back on. Do this repositioning lower panel exactly as you was before you removed it, without pushing the lower panel in toward switch. If unit does not activate, or stops working after several minutes while thermostat is set to command unit to heat, an open switch may be the issue. To test for this, apply light physical pressure to lower panel, toward unit, over switch location. Cycle unit power switch off, then on. If unit activates and runs normally, insufficient panel pressure against switch, causing an open switch, may be source of problem. Possible fixes include putting lower panel back into place repositioned so that it presses more against switch, or taping a very thin shim (such as a square of cardboard cut from a cereal box, but must be done competently as tape and cardboard fluttering loose inside the blower compartment may lead to fan fouling issues) to the inside of the panel so that it depresses the switch more, or bending the panel so that it protrudes slightly toward switch (not recommended as once bent, panel is hard to get back into place properly, and bending may cause other issues), or carefully repositioning or nudging the switch toward panel (its fasteners may have come loose inside the unit frame, or switch may have vibrated out of place over time). If unit still will not cycle on, use a multimeter to see if the switch, when closed, allows current through the line (a continuity test). This might detect a bad switch. If the switch tests good, do a continuity test when the panel is in place, using alligator clip extension wires to test to see if the switch closes when panel is in place. Do this this test with main unit power turned off. If switch tests good when panel is removed while you are physically holding the switch closed, but tests open when panel is in place, manipulate/reposition/shim the lower panel as noted above.

you dont say what type unit it is :( so check circuit breaker feeding the unit switch or if plug in the outlet

Something,is drawing too many amps,most likely the compressor.

The door lock/unlock input from the driver's key switch goes to the Door Multiplex control unit (main switch), the Door multiplex control unit then sends a signal on the BUS (CAN) circuit to the passenger's multiplex control unit; the passenger's multiplex control unit then controls all the door locks. The passenger's door lock key switch inputs to the passenger's multiplex control unit, if the locks work from the passenger's side key switch but not the driver's side key switch, the most likely cause is the driver's multiplex control unit (main switch) not sending the signal to the passenger's side multiplex control unit. This could also be the drivers side door lock actuator. Hope this helps!

These units are equipped with a low/no oil shutdown. When you hold the switch over to start it, it overrides the shutdown interlock until the unit builds oil pressure in the engine. When you release the switch to the run position the interlock is engaged. Ensure there is sufficient oil in the crankcase, check the wiring from the oil pressure switch to the ignition cutout-(it may have been pulled off or damaged). If that checks out, then either jump across the 2 wires at the oil sending unit or disconnect the harness from the sending unit to test to see if the sending unit is bad. Try both unless you know the switch is normally open or normally closed. Replace the sending unit if needed.

EITHER THE FLASHER UNIT IS BAD OR THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH UNIT IS BAD,HOPEFULLY FOR YOU THE FLASHER IS BAD BECAUSE THE T-SIGNAL SWITCH IS EXPENSIVE,BECAUSE THE DIMMER SWITCH,HAZZARD SWITCH,AND THE WIPER SWITCH ARE ALL ON THE SAME UNIT WITH IT.

The brew unit missing switch is inside the slot at top back wall where the top of the brew unit puts an angled piece of plastic into the slot. The piece is a slope like a nose so it gently pushes the switch as you instert the brew unit. See if the brew unit reaches this slot on the wall. If it doesn't the brew unit most likely jammed up and was removed while the gears were not in home position. Now the gears are not allowing the brew unit to return fully inserted.

If you're handy you can call Miele tech support and request they walk you through steps to diagnose this. They will discover if the gear is out of home position or not. If it is not and the switch is in contact with the brew unit you may be in luck, the swith is cheap. But if the electronics no longer reads the switch signal it's 800 bucks to replace. Good luck!