1990 300e with very high mileage. Ign turmbler, Battery and alt. less than year old, 12.4v. When key turn on - Turns over will not crank., no dash assessory indicator lights lit, no horn, dont hear fuel pump. However, headlights and other interior lights, radio work. OVP fuse is good. What should i look for - Ignition switch, CIS-E, MAS??
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THAT IS CALLED A DEAD STARTER OR NO CRANK . condition. period.
6 TO 10- CAUSES of dead starter.
WHAT WORDS AND GOALS (stages)
CRANKS (key to start/crank) or button start /stop pushed for start.
STARTS (loud cranking heard if engine is dead)_
AND RUNS (grins)
AND STAYS RUNNING, (bliss)
IN THAT ORDER ONLY, MY CAR PUSH STARTS SO GOES FROM PUSH TO RUNS,. JUST 2 STEPS(stick shift bliss this) M/Tbox.
when kid 15yo id park on a hill and do rolling starts. 3 speed manual box then./
turns over means zero, (turns = spins the starter spins and if lucky the engine crank shaft spins or turns and if lucky starts. turns never means runs. ever. it is called RUNNING.
some call running at idle others (old) say engine ticks over.
yes heard all the slang but do avoid TURNS. and OVER.()roger over and out)
I just fixed my neighbors, the hood knows i diagnose cars for free, retired me.
her car the battery reads, 10.7vDC (truth here is only discharged)
2020 Nissan.
head lamps bright, proves nothing here. at all (unless fully dead lamps)
the battery pushes 5 amps to head lamp but can not muster 100amps to the starter. so starter is dead or after 10 tries. tiny clicks heard under hood.
I see dash lamp dim a bit at crank attempts, a huge clue there.
causes. are: in order.
including lies the BCM dash lamp tells. (key IMMO failure lamp glows)
a huge lie there, 2020 car, and I know why the 10.7vdc battery causes most computers on board to lie or be dead.
(fast forward, only here the battery is dead. and no DTC ever stored, after cure.
PCM OBD2 jack we scan the under dash jack, shows comms dead, CAN_bus dead (her car)
and expected by me. (took 20min after my full charge the cars electronics to work again, ) NOTE THE DELAY.
now your causes all and in order
battery lugs, loose or rusty or both no battery ever lasted 17 years, so is on 2 or 3 battery now. or due for 3rd !!!!!
on the gals car above the tag top-o-bat reads 2020 see? I always look at tags.
battery lugs ok, and clean', battery not 7 years old or more.
battery voltage not 10v but 12.6vdc , rested 1hr. is it? if not charge it.we ran a 75ft extension from her house to street to charge it. with my charger.
or drag the battery to the work bench and charge it. or to any shop,say test it. this battery in hand,.. (way cheaper than any tow truck) or jump start it.
my load bank test shows hard failure, even no load, and BAD shows on dial loaded, but the battery in here car is good, and fails this test.
next up, charged, the IMMO key lamp must not show failing key,we tried both. keys.
starter relay bad.
PRNDL fails at start in Park and Reverse both, or just park. bingo SOLVED
the starter is bad, even hot wired it fails keys not near car.
simple failures here, just a starter not the 50causes of engine failure.
I only jumper cable start cars if in some kind of panic (stalled in snow bank)?
I charge the battery first with the tool called a battery charger.
this is more safe for electronics old relic chargers can push 20vdc and never is that safe for modern cars(computers max).
my charger is a smart charger.
this one is real good, 1hr charge and it is 90% charged, from 10.7v.
ONLY CAN BE 6 CAUSES. NO CRANK. YES FUSE LINKS BLOW WHEN ALTERNATOR SWAPS DONE WRONG ,NOT PULLING NEG LUG OF BATTERY STEP1.
6 CAUSES NO CRANK NOT 50 CAUSES OF DEAD ENGINE IS VASTLY MORE EASY TO FIX USING A VOLTMETER.
E3500 VAN,99 , NO VIN OR ENGINE TOLD. NO DIESEL CORRECT?
5 ENGINES, AND ALL 5 ARE NOT WIRED THE SAME.
4.3,5.0,5.7,6.5 AND 7.3
WILL TOSS DICE AND LAND ON 4.3L
FUSIBLE LINK RUST5 IS FOR ALT
FUSIBLE LINK BLACK 8 IS FOR WHOLE CAR.
BLACK 8 RUNS WHOLE HUGE CENTER FUSE BOX
WITH LOTS OF HUGE 50AMP+ FUSE, NONE BE BLOWN IS FIRST. ALL FUSES HERE ARE HOT ALL THE TIME ARE THEY?>
9 TO 11 HUGE FUSES, 2 ARE FOR UPFITTER PROVISIONS.
FUSE IGN-A AND IGN-B FUSE NOT BLOWN 40 & 50AMP
THEN IP BOX FUSE, 8 MARKED CRANK. 10AMP.
OUTPUT IS PPL PURPLE WIRE TO PRNDL SWITCH
IF IN PARK AND DO TRY CRANKING IN NEUTRAL
WE GET 12VDC TO THE STARTER SOLENOIDS.
TEST 2, DO ALL THINGS ELECRTIC WORK SEEMS THE CLUSTER DOES, HEAD LAMPS AND BLOWER ON HIGH?
BATTERY AT 12.6VDC RESTED?
THE STARTER IS EASY TO HOT WIRE, KEYS IN POCKET PARK
I FAILS, BATTERY /STARTER OR THE 2 BATTERY HUGE CABLES ARE BAD. 4 ENDS LOOSE OR RUSTY?
THE CRANK FUSE, MUST GO HOT CRANKED OR FUSES ARE BLOWN OR THIS PATH TO THE BATTERY FAILS.
I'D START HERE, IT'S IN THE MIDDLE OF PATH (WISE)
AND FUSE IS VOLTAGE TESTED. ONLY CRANKING.
IF DEAD MOVE TO KEY SWITCH OR BACK FUSED ABOVE.
Make sure battery has a full charge and connections, positive and negative, all good. Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic spec for a full charge is 12.6 volts. Leave meter leads touching battery posts, have helper turn key to crank, does voltage drop? How far?
If battery down, use a charger and get it charged up, check your charging system. Use a test light and check voltage at fuses in fuse box, some fuses hot all the time, some go hot with key on. good luck
no year, 1993?
that's the starter motor , called cranking over and engine.
or silent start. (dead)
key turns no sound from starter.
does it click?
is dash warning lamp all glowing key on, they must, if not battery is dead, or battery lugs only corroded, (clean em?)
are head lamps dim or dead, turned on?
just it jumper cable crank, (AAA autotow style)
id say battery is dead. or lugs rusty.
check connections at battery if engine turns over need to verify if you have spark if not an ign problem exhists check to see if fuel is flowing if not a fuel pump problem may exhist. make sure your battery is fully charged
most likely the ign switch is ok if you are getting spark. so you have a hot spark at coil and weak fire at plugs? if you have a test light check the positive side of coil for power when turning key on and cranking. if it is dropping power on positive side then ign switch could be bad. can "hotwire" coil by jumping a wire to positive side of coil to pos of battery this will eliminate ign switch.
the battery says 12 volts but may be dropping to 4 or 5 under a load...i would suggest jumpstarting the car and see what happens.the battery should read in the high 12 volts and not less than 9.5 under cranking. the dash lights go out on your car when starting,and the alarm will go off ,and disable the ignition if the voltage is too low in cranking the car because the computer will shut it down and activate the anti theft.....check your battery posts are tight. best of luck
Replace the ign. lock cylinder. Put old chip key in new cylinder. Plug it in to the connector at bottom of steering column by the dash after removing the wire from old lock cylinder. With duplicate key to turn old cylinder start car. Be sure to clean the battery cables and replace bolts. Hide the new cylinder under dash with chip key in it.
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