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Hello, you fried the control board or fuse in the inside unit. Usually the wires will attach to the side terminals on the contactor coil, this is part of the contactor is 24 volts, L1 and T1 are high voltage terminals.
You most likely have a bad capacitor, contactor, thermostat problem or the outside unit is not getting the 220 VAC power that it requires. Follow the following procedure to diagnose your a/c system ONLY if you are comfortable enough with your competency in working with high voltage devices. ***CAUTION***Anytimeyou are working on or around electricity you run the risk of shock and ordeath. If you are not competent working with high voltage and using electricaltest equipment then please consider consulting an expert before you open anelectrical panel or appliance. You assume any and all liability by continuing withthis diagnoses process.Typical ContactorFull d image
Thecontactor pulls in to make contact between L1 to T1 and L2 to T2, L1 and L2 arethe main power coming in to the unit and T1 and T2 are the loads I.E. thecompressor and fan motor. Use a multimeter set to AC Volts and test the powercoming into the unit by placing one probe on L1 and the other probe on L2 andread the number that the meter reads. If it is between 208 and 240ish then theunit has the proper power to operate and we must go further to diagnose theproblem.
Next, use ascrewdriver with an insulated handle to press the "button" in themiddle of the contactor, the one labeled "Pulls in with 24VAC", ifthe unit starts and runs while you are pressing this in then the contactor isnot pulling in and either is not getting the 24 volts AC from the thermostat oris bad and needs to be replaced. If the unit does not run then we continue withthe diagnoses by testing the capacitor.
***CAUTION***Capacitorshold a large electrical charge and will discharge upon contact with your skin.This is enough to stop your heart and cause death. If you are not confident ofyour abilities around these devices then please leave any testing or repairs toa professional.
The capacitor is inside the unitand you have to remove the cover to see the inside of the electricalcompartment. You will need to discharge the capacitor before you start workingaround it. To do this take a screwdriver or other long metal tool with aninsulated handle and cross the three terminals on the capacitor to ground. Youthen remove the wires to the capacitor terminals, taking note of which wiregoes to which terminal.
Capacitors are rated in MicroFarads (marked by a µF symbol) and a dual capacitor, shown in the image below,will have two ratings listed like this "35/5µF" or something verysimilar. You must have a multimeter thatreads micro farads " µF " to check a capacitor.
You do that by placing one probeon the C or COM terminal and the other probe on the FAN terminal and it shouldread the small number of the rating, for example if your capacitor is ratedlike this: 30/7.5µF then the fan rating will be the smaller of the two numbers.In this case the 7.5µF (seven and a halfMicro Farads). The HERM terminal is the one for the compressor and will berated the higher of the two numbers, I.E. the 30µF on the capacitor. Check themboth and of they are more than 6% lower than they are supposed to be then thecapacitor is weak and needs replaced. If you read 0 (zero) then the capacitoris bad and needs replaced. If they are within 6% of rated capacity then thecapacitor is OK and we move on to the next component.
Typical Dual CapacitorFulld image
Next we testto see if the thermostat is sending the "signal" to the contactor topull in and supply the power to the compressor and fan motor. The thermostattakes the 24 VAC, that's 24 Volts AC, from the transformer in your furnace/airhandler and sends it to the proper place depending on if you have it set forheating or cooling. Think of the thermostat as a switch, this switch sends the24 VAC to whatever units needs to come on at that particular time, whether it'sheating or cooling.
During acall for cooling the thermostat (T-stat) sends the 24 VAC to the contactor inthe outside condensing unit and turns it on. We need to find out if this signalis getting to the contactor or not so we can determine if the contactor is bador the problem lies elsewhere. Do this by setting your multimeter to AC Voltsagain and placing the red probe to the side of the contactor where the 24VACwires connect and the black probe to the metal casing where it can get a goodground. Read the meter and if it reads 24 volts or more, up to 27 or so, thenthe signal is getting through but the contactor is not operating and we need toreplace the contactor.
If we do nothave the proper signal there then the contactor is most likely OK and we needto look at the t-stat and the t-stat wiring. Check the batteries in your t-statand see if that helps. If your blower motor in your home at your furnace/airhandler comes on when you set the t-stat to cool then we know that the t-statand the transformer in your furnace are both operating and you need to checkfor breaks in your t-stat wiring from the t-stat to your furnace and then fromthe furnace to the outside condensing unit and repair as needed.
Hope thishelps and remember, safety first and if in doubt call a professional.
assuming you are talking about the 'contactor' you are correct - but be sure the 'top' 2 posts are labeled L1 and L2.
Bottom posts should be labeled T1 and T2
L = Line in
T = load out (compressor/fan motor)
Check for 24 volts AC at the coil. If you do not have 24 volts at the coil (with AC turned on at your thermostat), then your problem is not with your contactor, but rather a control problem. If you have 24 volts at the coil, check for 240 volts on the LINE side (commonly marked L1 & L2) of your contactor. If you do not have 240 volts, check for open fuse or tripped or bad circuit breaker. If you have 240 volts, check for 240 volts at the LOAD side of your contactor (Commonly marked T1 & T2). With 24 volts on your coil and 240 volts on the LINE side, you should have 240 volts on the LOAD side. If not, the contactor is not making contact.
You can also perform a continuity test as shown in this video:
Sorry but I could not find a picture of a Fasco h140a but L's are connected to line (supply) voltage and T's are connected to load (motor). C's are connected to your control voltage, usually the smaller sized wire.
Double check that the new contactor has the same electrical ratings on it. My guess is that the coil should be 24v while the relay should be able to carry the same amperage at 220v.
First shut off the breaker and disconnect switch for the furnace and outdoor condenser and call a licensed HVAC contractor:)
If you are determined to do it yourself, Then read the schematics first. Be aware, if you mis wire the system you may cause more damage than you have now. Not to mention your personal safety is at risk.
I am basing this on the most common style contactor found in my area.
The main relay side should be labeled. (eg. L1,L2-T1, T2). These should match exactly like the old one. L1 and L2 are the incoming power. T1 and T2 are the power leaving the contactor. All the 220v wires should correspond to one of these four terminals either by screwing them down or fitting the spade connectors together.
Usually the 24v wires will plug onto the coil (near the bottom, left and/or right sides of the contactor) silver spade connectors.
(STEP 1.) Leave all Wires Connected to your Old Contactor.
(STEP 2.) Remove the two mounting screws that hold the Old Contactor to the Air Conditioners casing.
(STEP 3.) Now Install the New Contactor to the old contactors existing location using the Same two Screws.
(STEP 4.) Now take Off one wire at a time from your old Contactor and
Install each wire one at a time to the proper location on the new
I would replace them to the exact terminals that they used to be on. Technically speaking L1 and L2 stand for Line one and Line two. This would be the incoming power from the breaker or disconnect switch. T1 and T2 are the power leaving the contactor relay.
On single phase your incoming power lines go to L-1 & L-2, the lines to the compressor go to T-1 & T-2. With A/C current it does not matter which one goes to which side as long as the line goes to the L side and the compressor power lines go to the T side. As long as the coil voltage is correct any contactor will replace the original.