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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Look at the underside of the blade shaft. The metal wing nut on the end of the shaft secures the blade assembly to cream coloured plastic blade base. The wing nut also transmits the drive from the rubber coupling on your blender to the blade shaft. The wing nut has a LEFT HAND thread.
The left hand thread ensures the blade assembly does not unscrew during normal blender use.
Firstly disassemble the blender blade assembly. Place a folded tea towel over the blades and hold the blades firmly. If you do not use a tea towel you may cut yourself.
Grip the wing nut with your other hand and unscrew it CLOCKWISE.
Remove the wing nut. You can now remove the blade from the plastic base.
Put the blade assembly in the new jug and offer up the plastic base from under the jug so that the blade shaft protudes enough for you to install the wing nut.
Screw the wing nut ANTI-CLOCKWISE to secure the blades to the plastic base.
Do not over tighten the wing nut; you may have to replace your jug again at some point.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
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