I have a Whirlpool fridge that is not cooling. I have done the following 1. Turned the thermostat to zero and then started it again after 30 min wirks for some time and then stops again 2. Opened the back side to inspect the coils, vaccummed them and cleaned the area. Coils here relatively clean 3. There was no direty water anywhere and no corrosion 4. Opened the freezer compartment, removed the Ice maker and inspected the evaporator. No apparent damage and area is clean no corrosion 5. I have opened the thermostat panel and inspected it no corrosion all is good. Please advise The Fridge model is ET8CHMXKQ0

From what I have read the control board has failed.

Hollo

Ok so first your repair man should have followed these steps...
1:Test the thermostate ensuring that the compressor gets supplied with power.---If the thermostat is working then...
2:Ensure that the compressor starts up.---If the compressor is starting up and running(important) then...
3:Ensure that the compressor's has the corect presentage of effiecancy.(Unless the gadge indicates theres no refrigerant in the system then...
3a: Find and repair gas leak.
if the gauge quick gets pulled into a vacuum then..
3b:The drier is blocked other wise he should do a gas leak test.
4:If the drier is blocked and gets replaced he should weld it quickly and rap a wet cloth around it other wise it would be blocked again.
5:If all done he should check if the evaporator fan
is running.If not then replace.
NB!: The current range of compressor should be installed as well be charged with the right refrigerant and also the current amount of refrigerant(when hot running on max:11.5psi and min:9.8psi)also before charging the system a vacuum should be preformed for min 30min(NB! other wise it would have fog in the system causing it to hunt)
If all is well he should check his welding for leaks and check if the capillary isn't blocked or got closed by the welding.

Personal opinion his robbing you.

Regards

depending on door seals and the number of times the door is opened and the temp setting on the thermostat and the positioning of the fridge it could be considered normal
see if you can get an idea of the cycle times at night when the fridge is not being opened and the room is cooler if the temp setting is close to 32 or zero celsius then the fridge works hard to maintain that low setting but if the setting is higher say 5 degrees celsius it runs a lot easier
the problem with fridges is that every time the door is opened , all the cold air falls on the floor and the motor has to run to fill the fridge with cold air again
fridges that are full of food maintain their cold better than empty fridges

Dear Mahesh

In Cool Mode

Temp Diff - + - 1 deg C in Room Temp & Set Temp

This is auto cut

In Dry Mode

Comp Runs for 10 mins then get off for 5 mins then again get on for 10 mins this cycle continuues.

You will need to check the following parts:

1. Compressor start relay
   
2. Cold control thermostat
3. Compressor

Compressor start relay

1. With the fridge unplugged, and an Ohm-Meter in hand, remove the Compressor start relay after marking where each wire goes. The wires must be removed before testing the start relay.
   
2. Use your ohm meter to test the white(overload) wire, with one meter probe on the terminal where the White wire went, and the other meter probe on the other terminals, 1 at a time, should read 0-1 ohm.
3. For the brown relay, just put both meter probes in each hole, should read 0-1 ohm.

Cold control thermostat

1. Put the Compressor start relay back in place and hook the wires back up to it.
2. Find the cold control thermostat, it is the Switch with a knob that controls the Temperature. Tap under the console and on the knob in your refrigerator section and see if it comes on.
3. If the contacts inside that cold control thermostat go bad, then when you tap the console or knob the refrigerator comes back on again.
   

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

sounds like a thermostat and a timer to me
start off with a thermostat if that doesnt work buy a timer
it's a bit expensive like 100.00 buy if you like the fridge or cant afford a new 1
thermo $10- $30
timer 30-70 try to buy recycled parts that are tested there cheeper

The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.

YES , you need to replace the thermostat timer,its a device that operates like every 30 min or so applying heat thru a black element to keep the freezer from not building up ice . hope this helps AJ