Question about Maytag Dryers

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Dryer is blowing air but it is not heating the air. The timer is also not working (continues to run without shutting off by itself). We recently had a flood and the dryer was affected. We are trying to salvage the dryer but are not sure if it is worth it or how many parts we would need to purchase to fix it. Thanks!

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Sounds like a bad motor switch. Was the motor submerged?

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

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Dryer runs heats barely runs forever b4 clothes are dry


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE













Dryer will not shut off:

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle?


1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

Aug 16, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer works but when time is up it keeps running (cold air)


Dryer will not shut off:

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle?


1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

Aug 13, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

What is wrong with my gas dryer ? no heat and wn't shut off.


FIRST OFF IN THE AUTO DRY MODE THE DRYER USES THE MOISTER SENSOR AND AS LONG AS THE MOISTER SENSOR DOES NOT DETECT HEAT OR DRIED CLOTHES IT WILL CONTINUE TO RUN FOREVER.

NEXT AS FOR UR NO HEAT:

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Aug 09, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

WED5321SQ0 dryer doesn't heat or shut off once it's running


well if ran all night you maybe be running a even heat or auto dry cycle. i would first try on a timed dry see if heat then. if does heat (which probably wont) you will be need to replace either the sensor or board that controls the auto dry. or a very small chance that the timers bad. most likely you have a bad heating element. if the machine doesnt heat on the timed dry, then you need to check continuity on the heat fuse(located on heat element housing). if good then check continuity on heat element. i would say you have a bad element or heat fuse.

Aug 01, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not blowing hot air- timer not working


im assuming your on the automatic cycle. on this cycle the timer will not advance without heat. check you house circuit breaker/fuse. if one goes the unit will run but will not heat.

Feb 08, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer,timer switch won'tmove & cool air only.


Begin by replacing the times. Then you will most likely find that you are back in business.

Jun 29, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE4000 Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Kenmore Dryer


I am sorry to hear this, my name is Marc White, i am self employed and it seems as though you have a bad timer, bad timer will cause the timer not to go to the off position and blow your fuse......change your timer..


thanks

Apr 03, 2008 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer


First make sure you have power to the unit through the plug. If power is present, then you most likely have an open Thermal Safety Fuse. The Thermal is a Safety feature that shuts off the power to the Heat Element in the event the Blower is not blowing or the Lint Vent becomes clogged not allowing air to flow over the Heat Element. NO air flow, Heat Element over heats, Thermal Safety Fuse opens, power shuts off. If the Thermal Safety Fuse is open find out why. Was the blower not working? Was the Lint Filter clogged? ( Lint Filter should be cleaned after each use to assure continued air flow.) Was Lint Vent Clogged? This is the Vent Hose that goes from the Dryer to the outside of your house. It should be checked for free air movement. The next thing-- Could be a defective Timer or Control Module.
Find where you lost power and WHY!!

Jan 27, 2008 | Dryers

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