Schematics for d 600

no!
CDI MODULES (IGNITORS)
What is a CDI module? A typical CDI module consists of a small transformer, a charging circuit, a triggering circuit and a main capacitor. First, the system voltage is raised up to 400-600 Volts by a transformer inside the CDI module. Then, the electric current flows to the charging circuit, charging a capacitor. A rectifier inside the charging circuit prevents the capacitor from discharging before the ignition point. When the triggering circuit receives triggering signal, the triggering circuit stops charging the circuit, allowing the capacitor to discharge rapidly to the low inductance ignition coil, which increases the 400-600 V capacitor discharge to up to 40 kV at the secondary winding. This 40 kV then jumps the spark plug gap. When there is no triggering signal, the charging circuit is reconnected and starts charging the capacitor again.

To be sure you need a schematic. You can actually take a look at it to see if is labeled or check polarity with a meter.

hi, firstly what controller is fitted (curtis) ? then i can give you a ideal controller wiring schematic but you won't get hold of a Rascal one..

Regards
Rob

www.gewizrepairs.co.uk

It is strange that all three units have the same problem. I am assuming that when you tested your three units that you did so by attaching them to your camera. If all three are bad, it could be that the problem is in your camera. Let's disregard the ready light for the moment because the ready light could be bad or your flash is only partially charging. As an experiment, turn on one of your SB-600's and after allowing time for it to charge, short out the contact pins on the flash shoe. If it flashes, it could be the camera at fault.

The SB-600 is an older unit. If you have three of them, I will assume that you are using them professionally and they have had heavy consistent use. As a result, your speedlight's capacitors may have reached the end of their life span.

Let's look at what may be happening. By charging, it means that the batteries in your speedlight are supplying a low voltage to a capacitor bank that charge to a higher voltage that is sufficient to fire the flash tube. All capacitors deteriorate over time and use and will lose their ability to charge and maintain a charge. Given the age of your equipment, that may be the case. If you have the knowledge and equipment, I would replace the capacitors on one of your units and see if it works. If not, I would send one of the units into Nikon for a free repair estimate. They can be reached at 1-800-645-6687 9AM-8PM EST, Monday to Friday.

1) Whatever company that made that Nvidia 9800GT graphics card, isn't going to produce a schematic for the general public.
(EVGA, VisionTek, Galaxy, Sparkle, BFG, etc.)

They paid big bucks to Nvidia for the GPU, the schematics, and all licensing fees.

2) If you indicate that you believe most of the capacitors, (Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors), are of the same values, capacitance, and voltage, then remove another one of them, and test the capacitance.

Multimeter set to OHM's. An economical unit can be purchased for around $5 to $12.
Most auto parts stores carry them, as well as a multitude of other stores.

3) The Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors you are looking at, have the values printed on them. They are just in the capacitor manufacturer's code.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/595

Page 2 of the article starts with the identification of the markings.
Page 3 dealing with capacitors manufactured in Japan.
Page 4 deals with capacitors manufactured in China, and Taiwan.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Unless you are a qualified audio service technician, you should refer repair of this unit to an authorized Behringer service depot. The capacitors you refer to can store lethal amounts of electrical charge. Also, Behringer service manuals and schematics are notoriously difficult to get.

1) Bad Power Supply. Power Supply has a weak voltage power rail.

Electrolytic Capacitors are breaking down inside the Power Supply.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

The capacitors build up a charge long enough to work briefly, then break down.

2) Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard are breaking down. Specifically the one's used in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit.

A) http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

B) Visually identifying bad capacitors,

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

C) Video showing what happens with bad capacitors (Electrolytic) in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit (Starts at 0:04)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN6_-8fYHo0

Await your further diagnoses.

I believe that there is a safety feature built in that if the voltage in the capacitor gets too large the flash will fire, to prevent damage, could be this that is faulty, if it is a new main circuit board is required.

check wire connection to capacitor measure voltage on it/
Be carefull high voltage!!!

Hello Betz, You are right, the flash capacitor isn't charging. The camera however doesn't have a sensor monitoring the capacitor charge, but has one on the circuits that charge the capacitor. If they aren't powered on (because of faulty connectors or damaged components) they will not be able to suply power to the inverter circuits that will charge that capacitor. The led is blinking because at some point the charging tension is sent to charging circuitry but doesn't stop blinking because charging doesn't take place or it takes place but the wires that carry the "I'm charged and ready" signal are severed or don't make a perfect electricaly contact. I don't recomand a DiY fix for this because by opening the camera you can damage the lens assembly or expose yourself to some 300-350Volts from that capacitor if it's charging. If you decide to try to diagnose yourself this problem I can suggest you to check if that capacitor is storing some tension on it, if it does, then the problem is shurely related to that "I'm charged and ready" signal wire. In either case all the connectors must be checked. Please note also that if the inverter, or charging circuitry is broken (damaged components) the service centers will change it as a whole and woun't try to repair it. This will cost about $50-$80 without labor part. Please post a reply if you nead more directions. Good luck.