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Sharp LC-32GD8E When we switch on set there is no picture just sound? My mother in law has same television and just had same problem What do you think it is and best solution

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  • RareFox Jul 17, 2008

    I have exactly the same problem with the same model. It started the other day, and appears to be getting worse. If you switch it off and on again a few times, eventually it gets a picture. I've read a couple of posts which seem to suggest one of the boards inside which controls the back lighting, but if possible I'd rather fix it myself than spend a fortune getting someone in.

    We've had the set for about 18 months. We already had a big argument with Curry's when the power supply blew up after 4 months and the refused to repair it. Finally ended up taking it down to the store and dumping it on the managers desk until he agreed to fix it! It's now out of warranty though, so I fear a costly fix coming on. Any help would be very very gratefully received.

  • Anonymous Aug 06, 2008

    I've exactly the same problem unfortunately this is the 2nd problem that has developed with this tv and it's now out of the warranty period. I repeatedly have to switch the tv on and off until the picture stays on the screen but the problem is getting worse. No one in my area will carry out the repair and I can see myself forking out for another tv.

  • sarmit Sep 01, 2008

    I have the same problem with a just of of warranty unit and have noticed that if I hold down the on/off button at the top of the unit, the picture will appear and everything works fine, until I let go of the button and then the unit switches off.

    Does everyone else with this problem, find that holding the button down does allow the unit to work. If so this shows that the power supply is OK and the unit functions... if you keep the button held down


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Okay. Here's my best stab at it. I've repaired several of these and it has been one of two things. First and most common is the inverter board. That is the board with a metal shield on it and a row of small transformers. Problems on these boards consist of open pico fuses due to leaky filter capacitors (usually 220uf is the value), or a transformer opens on this board. You can attempt to repair it or google the number on the board for a replacement unit. Second is underneath the main board sometimes a heatsink will slide down because it wasn't securely anchored and short or arc against main p.c.b.(solder side). To access this you must remove the two large side-by-side boards from their mounting brackets just to get to the board below that you want to look at the bottom of. This is a major disassembly, but it can be done fairly easily with limited distractions. When you remove the bottom board and all the plug connectors you will see a goopy, putty looking compound that was meant to hold the heatsink in place,and you will see a burn mark and open fuse or resistor if this is the cause of your trouble. By this you should know that I've spent my share of time researching this problem so as to help you and others like you. Good luck, Russmann.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

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