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GE Spacemaker Microwave Blown Fuse replaced still no power

Obviously blown ceramic 20AMP fuse. Replaced fuse. Still no lights no power. Technical data sheet indicates Varistor replacement or failed power supply. Know where I can get a TVR 14271 (varistor)? I have researched this for hours and read somewhere that if I cut out the Varistor that took the power hit, plug everything back in and it works then I will have confirmed Varistor failure and the Microwave will run without surge protection until I replace the Varistor. I would feel more comfortable having the replacement in-hand before snipping it out. Advice?
History: Microwave shares circuit with other appliances. Has tripped the breaker about a dozen times since we moved into this place last year. Manual advises Microwave be on it's own "120Volt, 15-20 Amp. parallel, grounded separate circuit." This is not the case.

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  • Bastion Jul 21, 2008

    Thank you for your response! The Microwave is a GE SpaceMaker JVM1640BJ03. My original problem was no lights and no power (apparently) coming into the microwave. I checked the house circuit breaker as usual and reset it.I expected the Microwave to start working again as usual, but no lights no power. I took it aparta nd swapped out the blown fuse on the Microwave and I still have no lights an no power. The Varistor doesn't appear cracked or split. I used my $7 Digital Multimiter to test. Set it to 200 ohms and it jumps all over the place from 2.0 on up to 188. I don't know what this means. When I set it to 2000 ohms it jumps all over but always centers back on 300.

    Thanks for your help!

  • Bastion Jul 28, 2008

    Hello again,

    It's a JVM1640BJ03 (I was waylaid by a plumbing issue). Thanks for the heads-up on the breaker.

    Looks like I get to remove the microwave form the wall and see my first TCO :-). From the mini Manual "Oven must be removed from wall. Remove outer case to access part.

    I'll let you know how it works out.

    Thanks Again

  • Bastion Jul 29, 2008

    Disassembled and tested all 4 thermostats or TCO's. The "cavity TCO" doesn't get a reading on the meter, but the others do read Zero. Found it online shipped for $16 and change. Part Number: WB27X10714 THERMOSTAT(DUCT) US $9.53

  • Bastion Aug 08, 2008

    Part arrived today via the slow boat shipping I chose. Swapped it out, plugged it in and Viola! All better.

    Thank you so much for you invaluable assistance! Fixed!

  • rebarnz Mar 21, 2009

    Very helpful response MicrowaveSvc! I probably couln't have done the troubleshooting without your advice, but I had the same problem (total power cutout), and it was indeed my "cavity TCO" that was bad. Ordered new part, istalled, and all is well.
    Thanks very much for this advice.

    My oven is actually a JVM1660 , but the phenomenon is the same. The internal fuse never blew on mine - just the TCO.

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  • Microwave Ovens Master
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If you measure across the varistor leads with it still in the circuit, you should measure around 100-300 ohms, which is the DC resistance of the primary of the low voltage transformer.

If you read infinity / open the primary of the low voltage transformer is bad.

If the varistor is bad, it will be shorted and usually it will be cracked or split. This is a much simpler way to test the varistor.

Have you checked the magnetron thermal cutout (TCO) (or thermostat if so equipped) and the oven TCO? These are the leading causes of a dead GE when the fuse is okay.

You didn't mention the model number. What is it?

Please reply back here if you still need help.

We're happy to help you. Once we have all your information and offer a final solution, we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

  • William Miller
    William Miller Jul 21, 2008

    The jumping around of the meter is probably due to the coating on the varistor, and your leads are not making good contact.



    But the fact that it settles around 200-300 ohms means it's not shorted, and your transformer primary is almost certainly okay.



    You mention that the breaker has tripped a dozen times in a year? A breaker can only trip so many times before it is weakend and compromised. It should be replaced after so manny trips. I would consult an electrician for that number, or check the packaging on a new breraker.



    Have you checked the magnetron thermal cutout (TCO) (or thermostat if so equipped) and the oven TCO? These are the leading causes of a dead GE when the fuse is okay.



    You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.



    The "mini-manual" will also show the thermostats and/or TCOs.



    I'd say that's the problem.



    We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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HELLO.

the problem your are experiencing with your microwave oven is a failed interlock switch.
Be careful when closing your microwave door. Slamming the door too hard is one of the main reasons that the interlock switch is damaged.

Slamming the microwave door shut can easily blow the microwave fuse, but they can also blow due to problems with the interlock switches.
A microwave oven will not function until the fuse is replaced.

Instruction on how to replace fuse on microwave.

1. Unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet to prevent electrocution. Place the microwave in a well-lit area to be able to locate the fuse.

2. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer cabinet of the microwave, and follow the power cord to the fuse. The fuse is located 2 to 3 inches within the microwave and is attached to the power board.

3. Observe the fuse to determine if it is blown. Blown glass fuses will produce burn marks on nearby surfaces, or the internal fuse wire will be black and melted, while ceramic fuses show no outward appearance of being blown.

4. Determine if a ceramic fuse is blown by testing it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is not blown. Other readings on the ohmmeter show that your fuse is blown.

5. Replace the blown fuse by popping it out of its holder, and snapping a new fuse in its place. Tighten the fuse clips by squeezing them together with your fingers.

6. Replace the outer cabinet of the microwave, and plug the microwave back into the electrical outlet. Test the microwave to see if it's working properly.

thanks.

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HELLO.

take on these steps to solve the problem.

Check if there is electric power on wall outlet.

If the microwave plug has fuse,check if it has not burnt.if these are okay there is need to take the last step.

things needed
1.Screwdriver
2.Ohmmeter
3.New fuse

1. Unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet to prevent electrocution. Place the microwave in a well-lit area to be able to locate the fuse.

2. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer cabinet of the microwave, and follow the power cord to the fuse. The fuse is located 2 to 3 inches within the microwave and is attached to the power board.

3. Observe the fuse to determine if it is blown. Blown glass fuses will produce burn marks on nearby surfaces, or the internal fuse wire will be black and melted, while ceramic fuses show no outward appearance of being blown.

4. Determine if a ceramic fuse is blown by testing it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is not blown. Other readings on the ohmmeter show that your fuse is blown.
5. Replace the blown fuse by popping it out of its holder, and snapping a new fuse in its place. Tighten the fuse clips by squeezing them together with your fingers.

6. Replace the outer cabinet of the microwave, and plug the microwave back into the electrical outlet. Test the microwave to see if it's working properly.

Thanks.

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1 Answer

There are condensation, water drips between the glass on the door of my over the counter microwave/convection oven. Is this a problem? How can I clean this? Microwave is only 6 months old.


HELLO.

Yes.Water can only drip between the glass on the door when the door do not seal properly due to dirt on the microwave door.follow these steps given below to clean the door.

1. Unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet to prevent electrocution. Place the microwave in a well-lit area to be able to locate the fuse.

2. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer cabinet of the microwave, and follow the power cord to the fuse. The fuse is located 2 to 3 inches within the microwave and is attached to the power board.

3. Observe the fuse to determine if it is blown. Blown glass fuses will produce burn marks on nearby surfaces, or the internal fuse wire will be black and melted, while ceramic fuses show no outward appearance of being blown.

4. Determine if a ceramic fuse is blown by testing it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is not blown. Other readings on the ohmmeter show that your fuse is blown.

5. Replace the blown fuse by popping it out of its holder, and snapping a new fuse in its place. Tighten the fuse clips by squeezing them together with your fingers.

6. Replace the outer cabinet of the microwave, and plug the microwave back into the electrical outlet. Test the microwave to see if it's working properly.

Thanks.

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1 Answer

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Aug 29, 2009 | GE Spacemaker 1.7 Cu. Ft. Over-the-Range...

1 Answer

Fuse keeps blowing.


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if you inadvertantly replaced a higher current fuse with a 15amp fuse, it will blow every time.
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not a solution, something to check,

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