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Kenwood LPS 5000D

Hey robotek, thanks for the help. The diameter of the hole is 10.5 inches- that is the hole in the speaker cabinet. the overall speaker frame diameter is 12 inches. also the woofer is not the original and not very good quality. it is about a six inch mounting hole. thanks very much.

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Hi cw10k

Thats odd. The only passive radiators I have seen over the years have been the same size as the bass driver. They need to be this way to provide the correct tracking of the bass driver. Your speakers sound more like a a 3 way system that may have been modded. Unfortunately they pre-date the internet by the looks of it :) I cant find any info for them, and from my recollection. Kenwood never made anything notable in loudspeakers. I suggest checking the crossover of the speakers to see if they look original, or if indeed they are 3 ways. If there is only a capacitor to the tweeter, then they were never meant to be performance loudspeakers,and probably came with a system of sorts. Keeping in mind the cost of replacement drivers to do upgrades to this sort of gear, may make them uneconomic to repair or upgrade. In Australia(they do deliver world wide) you can get passive radiators from Speaker Bits
Got any thoughts on that. :)

regards
robotek

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

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How to troubleshoot a kenwood kr 5600


These older tuner/amps have protection relays that when latching, are distinctly audible. Does the relay engage after approx. 10 seconds after turn-on? If not, check your speaker wires and/or speakers for issues. With all speakers (and wires) disconnected, the relay should still latch after turn-on. If not then you have an internal problem...likely a older pre-drive transistor that's bias is incorrect, which in turn causes bigger problems downstream.

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Hey, I just got a kenwood audio-video control center vrs-ns8100 from a friend but It won't stay powered once turned on. What could be the possible problem?


Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

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Hi John
For sure, can at least get an understanding of what may be wrong. You hear the power relay click in, but perhaps no secondary click of the speaker protection relay.  This is generally caused by a fault condition in the amp, resulting in a DC offset voltage being present in the speaker outputs, then detected by the protection circuit, does not allow the speakers to be connected to protect them from damage.  . How far do you want to get into it?
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Hi spanky, replied to one of you other posts. Just clearing this ticket out of the system:)

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hey spanky, no worries, just about to go to bed...11.40pm here. Will follow up tomorrow:) Cheers mate

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1 Answer

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Hi spanky

Where to start :) I am excited thinking about them :p You got 2 totally cool pieces of classic vintage gear there in the C2 and the Marantz. I have a C2 preamp myself (gathering dust but wont sell it cos its excellent) and the marantz would be totally cool to have(but then I am a little biased towards 70's vintage marantz). They ruled the roost in HiFi amps throughout that decade.

Because they are both integrated amps, you could use them as standalone systems with a pair of speakers, and just plug your favourite gear into them. If you just wanted to run up a nice sounding HiFi, I would sell the kenwood gear and just keep the Marantz. The Kenwood kr1100 has the edge in power, so if it is grunt you are looking for use that. Because vintage sound is all about stereo, you only really need an integrated amp to get great results.

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Dynamic power output 440W at 4 ohms
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The marantz is a little lower in power at 75rms a channel, but will have the sonic edge in vintage sound over the kr1100. Look them up on ebay and you will find that they do have some value to collectors and people seeking nice tone. There is an 1152 for sale here for AU$900

Best bet is to fire up the 2 integrated amps,and see how they are going. Run them for several hours to be sure there is no strange noises and crackles. Then decide if you want power or finesse.

You could also run both amps from the C2 preamp by connecting to the Amp in connections to the rear of the integrated amps.

happy to talk to you more about it, hit me with a Fixya if my advice was helpful to you. I would keep the marantz, use that and sell the rest and buy some nice speakers:)

regards
robotek

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Hi, sorry for the delay. Sounds like a faulty cable, or the termination at the jack plug is faulty. These can create the problem you have. What model do you have again, don't remember getting that from you.

cheers
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Hey mate

Dont think the wrong plugin hurt you. Is just the fickle finger of fate pointing at yo:)

All tubes should have a glow in them, the smaller ones can be a bit hard to see at times. A way to check is carefully check if it is getting hot, or at least as hot as the others. It can sometimes be a crook valve socket also. Depends on the age of the beast :) A bit of a wriggle, or a reposition in the socket can bring back the heater to one that is out from a dodgy socket. Only long term solution to a faulty socket is to replace it. I have a tiny file round that I clean em out with, but once they are crook, they give trouble. Good luck, hope you get it sorted. Let me know how you get on. Cheers mate!

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Hi cw10k

Can you tell me what the diameter of the hole for the passive radiator is. I think I can source one for you. Let me know and we shall see.

regards
robotek

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