Question about Kenmore 57072 Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer and fresh food compartment are warm.

The lamp comes on. The freezer fan runs. The fan next to the compressor runs. The black coils under the unit are cooler than room temp. The silver coils in the freezer are warmer than room temp. The compressor is much warmer than room temp and is vibrating a little bit.

What to do?

Posted by on

  • 2 more comments 
  • asphaltdance Jul 17, 2008

    Lee2fixit The whole refrigerator box is warm.



    Eagle338 I will try your recommendation in the AM.



    Thanks to both of you.

  • asphaltdance Jul 17, 2008

    Shorting the thermostat did not make a difference. Shorting the compressor start relay (no capacitor shown on the wiring diagram) on the side of the compressor blew the wall fuse. Do not think it was the pick circut that I shorted as the wiring is too heavy. Now that I think about it, there was no pick wiring to be seen.

  • asphaltdance Jul 19, 2008

    Turns out the problem was a faulty start relay on the compressor. It is a sealed unit, brown in color, made by Klixon. Got to that conclusion because both evaporator and condenser fans were running and the wiring diagram seemed to show that all conditions except thermal overload, start relay and compressor motor were met for the compressor to run. When the relay was removed and shook, it rattled. So off to the appliance store for a new one which did not rattle.



    The compressor is now running and cooling.



    Thanks for your help.

  • Lee2fixit May 11, 2010

    When you say the fresh food compartment is warm, do you mean the entire refrigerator box, or just a produce drawer that draws air from the freezer? If the freezer and the whole refrigerator are both warm, then you might have a bad compressor or a refrigerant leak. If the main refrigerator compartment is cold, but the freezer is warm, then you might have a defroster **** "on" in the freezer. Sounds like the compressor is running, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's compressing.

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 4,889 Answers

The fridge thermostat is faulty and not cutting in at the required temperature. Fridge stats are not easy to test, so the best way is to bypass the stat to see if the compressor starts. To bypass the stat first unplug the appliance and remove the stat housing from inside the fridge compartment, once you have removed the housing you will see the stat inside. Some stats have 2 terminals some have 3, whatever yours has you will need to connect the compressor wire ( Black) to the live wire (Red or White). When you have bypassed the stat plug the appliance back in and switch on, if the fridge starts up and runs ok you will need to purchase a new stat.


Posted on Jul 17, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

I have a Whirlpool ED2CHQXKQ05. The freezer seems to be working fine, but the refrigerator part doesn't seem to be cooling correctly. The center part that divides the freezer to the refrigerator is...


Hello,

It's normal for the center divider to be warm but it should never be so hot it will burn you when touching it. A few things to check are;

The coil on the the bottom of refrig. behind the grill under the doors, check and clean all dust from it using a vacuum and ref. coil brush to clean all dust from it

The condenser fan motor..its behind the rear access plate in the back of the unit,remove back plate and check that fan motor by the compressor is running.

Good luck, GENE

Aug 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi, Our refrigerator has stopped cooling and I desperately need to try to fix it myself. Lights still come on. Fan or something is still running but the freezer still works so I thought maybe that's what...


There is likely a problem with the defrost circuit or cold air circulating fan (but could be a low freon charge or other problem). The freezer compartment has the cooling coil with defrost heater and a fan that pulls cold air from the freezer and blows it into the fresh food compartment; based on the setting of the thermostat in the fresh food compartment.

When the defrost heater fails, the area that the cooling coil is located in eventually turns into a solid block of frost and ice. It becomes impossible for air to be drawn across the cold coil, cooled and blown into the fresh food compartment. The result is a rising temperature in the fresh food compartment - and eventually in the freezer section, too. Since the fresh food compartment contains the thermostat and the temperature never gets low enough to satisfy it - the compressor runs non-stop. That is, until the defrost timer kicks in to shut it off for 20 minutes or so.

The first thing to do is to manually defrost the freezer by accessing the cooling coil after emptying the contents of the freezer. This can be a pain in the neck to remove racks, shelves, ice maker, etc. to get to the back wall of the freezer, behind which the cooling coil is found. If you expose the cooling coil and it is encased in frost and ice it is a problem with the defrost circuit. If it is not - the fan is suspect. If the fan spins, check for a blocked path between the fan and the fresh food compartment. Defrost by placing a heat source in the freezer or directing the output of a blow dryer at the coil. If you're unable to access the cooling coil, you can simply empty the freezer and defrost it with a heat source. it will take longer to melt all the frost and ice, but it will work.

If it is a defrost circuit problem, you'll need to check voltages and continuity on the defrost terminator & timer and defrost heating element, fans, etc. after completely thawing the ice & frost.

This job isn't a good first time DIY job due to the danger of freezing skin, etc. due to possible exposure to freon in the system and the tight spaces you'll be working in with live voltages. You might want to call a pro after you've defrosted or put up another fixya request if you decide to dig in on your own and need specific help with procedures, locating parts, wiring diagrams, etc.

I hope this was a good starting point to help you decide whether to go forward or not on your own. Good luck!

Oct 07, 2010 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

My compressor runs but I think it shuts off and stays off too long...the box gets to warm and the ice starts to melt before it starts again


First of all, before you do anything, clean the coils under the refrigerator. I couldn't tell you how many refrigerators I've 'fixed' that needed nothing more than the coils cleaned. Dirty coils can cause a multitude of problems, many of them with the exact same symptoms that would be expected when refrigerant components fail. Dirt is the #1 enemy of any refrigeration unit.

If that doesn't help, since both sides of the refrigerator get warm before the compressor kicks back on, I'd suspect the fresh food temperature control thermostat. Not an easy fix for the average homeowner unless you've got specific skills in appliance repair.

Before you do anything, try this. Turn the fresh food thermostat all the way up, the set the freezer setting at a higher than normal setting. The way the system works is that the fresh food thermometer turns the compressor on and off and the freezer control simply controls how much of the cold air from the freezer is diverted to the fresh food compartment.

If you turn the fresh food thermostat higher, the compressor will run longer and adjusting the freezer control to a higher setting will allow less cold air into the fresh food compartment, forcing the compressor to run longer in order to cool it to the thermostat setting.

If the settings have to be abnormally high, this is a workaround, rather than a fix. To get a permanent fix, you'll probably have to replace the fresh food control thermostat.

I hope this was helpful to you or to anyone reading it.

Oct 10, 2009 | Amana Refrigerators

1 Answer

Working fridge, warm freezer.


The fresh food compartment is cooled by air being blown from the freezer compartment into the fresh food compartment.

There is a panel, or door if you will, that separates the freezer and fresh food compartments. The freezer temp control determines how much cold air is allowed to escape into the fresh food compartment by opening or closing this panel.

In your case, the door must be stuck all the way open, allowing all the cold air to be diverted into the fresh food compartment. The compressor cycle is controlled by the thermostat in the fresh food compartment and thus 'short cycles' because the fresh food compartment acheives normal temperature while the freezer is relativel warm.

If the panel is restricted from moving (stuck in the extreme open position, for example), the fresh food compartment will get VERY cold while the freezer will be warm.

Try thoroughly defrosting the refrigerator. Possibly an accumulation of ice is preventing the panel from moving and/or is diverting all the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment. It's a free fix and may solve your problem altogether.

If that doesn't help, or helps only temporarily, you may have a problem with panel/door/flap itself or the linkage that connects it to the control mechanism. Unless you're skilled in appliance repair, checking and repairing these components will require the help of a service technician

Hope this was helpful. Good Luck.

Aug 28, 2009 | Amana Easy Reach AFD2535DE Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

Coils keep freezing up its 4 years old


Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Jul 30, 2009 | GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The coils on my ge gss22wgpd bb side by side keep freezing up . IU can defrost them manually and the freezer and fridge work fine again.


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

This site has schematics of various appliances, including the model number you provided...
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS22WGPDBB&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model appears very similar to mine - in the "Fresh Food Shelves" section of the above site, the sensor is diagram number 242. In the "Freezer Section", the sensors are diagram number 241 and 243.

Jul 28, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

My refridge isnt cold enough but my freezer isthe fan sounds like its running and the condenser is on. also the fan/condenser are never turning off by them self


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Jul 28, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Top refrigerator not cooling--freezer icy


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Jul 28, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Whirlpool ET18TK model evaporator fan


if cover is off there will be no air down there..was there frost on the coils ? if no then compressor is not running..if compressor is running and no frost..no freon or compressor valves shot.

Jun 10, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore elite 596 73503201 no cooling in top compartment


if the freezer is getting cold the problem is due to the cold air from the freezer not getting into the refrigerator. There are several things that can cause this problem. The coils in the freezer icing up and not defrosting properly is one of the things that can cause the refrigerator not to get cold enough. Another problem is the fan that blows the cold air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator, not working. When the compressor is running open the refrigerator's door and push the switch that makes the light go out. You should hear the fan blowing the cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator, when this switch is pushed in. If the fan is working then you will need to find what is blocking the air flow. Iced up coils are a common problem. The icing problem can be due to a defective defrost timer or something defective in the defrost circuit. Click here for more information. Check for these problems and let me know what you have found.
REFRIGERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING
#1 Refrigerator side getting warm Freezer still cold
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost heater defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defrost thermostat defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Airflow blocked from freezer compartment.
Freezer control turned to "coldest" setting blocking air flow to refrigerator side. On most refrigerator/freezers, the freezer control closes a baffle when turned to coldest setting, and this blocks off the air flow to the fresh food compartment.
Fan blade broken.
Defective door switch on older models.
Light staying on with door closed.
2 Refrigerator & freezer compartments both are getting warm
Make sure refrigerator is plugged in and has power.
Condenser fan motor on bottom under refrigerator not running.
Condenser coil clogged.
Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost heater. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Defective defrost thermostat. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
Evaporator fan motor not running.
Cold control defective.
Compressor overload defective.
Compressor relay defective.
Light staying on with door closed.
Compressor defective.
Low on refrigerant. #3 Freezer compartment getting hot.
Defrost timer stuck in defrost cycle.(replace)
Defrost thermostat stuck.(replace)
Ice maker stuck in harvest cycle
Light staying on with door closed. 4 Ice maker not making ice
Defective inlet water valve.
Freezer temperature not cold enough. (see problem # 2 & 3 above)
Defective thermostat in ice maker.
Defective drive motor.
Water inlet tube clogged with ice.
Defective module in newer style icemaker. 5 Refrigerator sweating around door edges
Door gaskets leaking air.
Defective case heaters.
Energy saver switch not set to reduce exterior moisture
also if require more help click the link http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html please do rate the solution .thanks in advance.thank you for using fixya.

Mar 27, 2009 | Refrigerators

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore 57072 Side by Side Refrigerator Logo

Related Topics:

189 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Refrigerators Experts

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

minguy15

Level 1 Expert

15 Answers

mike cooper

Level 3 Expert

884 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...