The rubber gasket has gotten very moldy since it continually collects water. How do I clean the inside of the gasket to remove the mold?

How to Remove Mold and Mildew from Front Load Washing Machines Today...

How to Remove Mold and Mildew from Front-Load Washing Machines

Front-load washing machines are notorious for collecting mold.
I've had my front-loading washing machine for about four years, and it has some great advantages - it's quiet, fast, uses less water and detergent, and gently tumbles (rather than yanking) my clothes. In general, I've been so pleased with it that I was shocked one day when I opened the door and was nearly knocked unconscious by a fetid blast of moldy-smelling air!
How could a machine that's so wonderful, suddenly turn so horribly smelly?

Gaskets hold moisture.
The answer is in the way the machine is designed. Front-loading washing machines have watertight, airtight doors that seal with a rubber gasket. That rubber seal traps moisture in the machine and also provides the perfect nooks and crannies for mold and mildew to grow.
Top-loading washing machines, on the other hand, have a rather loose fitting metal door that easily allows the tank to dry out between loads.
The problem isn't helped by our laundry preferences. High sudsing detergents and liquid fabric softeners leave behind residues and films that invite mold growth. Cold-water cycles and mild, eco-friendly detergents don't quite blast away residues like their environmentally-unfriendly counterparts.
So, to keep mold at bay, front-load washers need just a bit more maintenance than top-loading machines.

How to Get Rid of Mold and Smells in Top-Load Washers

If you've got a stinky front-load washing machine, here's how to get it smelling fresh again:

Cleaning gasket on washer.

• Clean Gasket: Use a rag or towel to clean the rubber door gasket on a front-loading washer with either hot soapy water or a spritz of mildew cleaner. Make sure to wipe underneath and around it as well. Be prepared for some slime and gunk, and possibly a stray sock or two!
• Clean Dispensers: Remove the detergent dispensers and give them a good scrubbing. If they don't come out, clean them as best you can, using a bottle or pipe cleaner to reach back into the crevices.
• Run Cleaning Cycle: Next, run an empty wash cycle on the longest, hottest water setting (or a tub-cleaning cycle, if you have it). Add one of the following directly to the wash tub:
  • 1 cup of bleach.
  • 1 cup of baking soda.
  • 1/2 cup of powdered enzymatic dishwasher detergent (such asCascade Complete).
  • A commercial residue-busting washer cleaner (such as Affresh orSmelly Washer).
  Commercial cleaning pellets.
  
• Repeat Cleaning Cycle: If the problem persists, repeat the cleaning cycle and consider trying a different additive. It might take several cycles to get the smell out.
• Professional Help: If you've tried every way to clean your front-load washer and it still smells, you may have mold growing back behind the drum, or possibly a clogged drain or filter. A qualified repair person can dismantle the machine and clean it for you, or you can unplug the machine and carefully explore and clean it yourself.

Preventative Maintenance

Once your machine is clean, follow these tips to keep it that way:

Allow washer tub to dry.

• Air It Out: If possible, leave the door of the front-load washer cracked open to allow it to dry thoroughly between cycles. However, you shouldn't do this if you have children or pets who could be tempted to climb (and possibly become trapped) inside the machine.
• Remove Loads Promptly: Be sure to remove wet clothes as soon as the cycle is finished. Set your washer to beep when it's done, so you don't forget.
• Choose Detergent Wisely: Choose low-sudsing detergents specifically made for high-efficiency (HE) machines. When possible, choose powder over liquid; liquid detergents are usually higher in suds.
Clean washer dispensers.

• Use Less Detergent: Read the labels and use no more than the amount recommended for each load. Experiment with using less detergent, until you find the minimum amount necessary (sometimes just a spoonful) to get your clothes clean.
• Avoid Fabric Softener: Liquid fabric softeners leave residue that contributes to mold in front-load washers. Instead, use dryer sheets or dryer balls to soften your clothes.
• Dry Gaskets: Use an old towel to wipe around and underneath the door gaskets and the inside of the door on front-loading washers. Ideally, you should so this after every cycle, but at the very least it needs a periodic wipe down to remove any water or mildew trapped in the folds.
• Use Bleach: About once a month, run a hot water bleach cycle. I usually take the opportunity to throw in work towels, fabric shower curtains, and muddy gardening clothes, along with that nasty gasket-cleaning towel.

Good Luck

If you have mold on the rubber gasket of your Duet front loader, I can almost assure you that you have lots of mold in other places in the machine. Front loading washing machine are almost hermetically sealed and if the door is left closed, the inside just never dries out. This is just a perfect environment for the growth of mold and other fungi. Once mold gets established in materials such as rubber gaskets, it can be very difficult if not impossible to eradicate because mold grows "roots" deep into the pores of the material, making it very difficult to remove. Eradicating the mold may result in damage to the gasket since my "cure" is to paint on full strength bleach on the moldy surfaces with a brush or sponge (wear gloves). Repeat if necessary. You may wind up having to replace the front door gasket to get all of it. It will probably take more than one application to fully eradicate the mold from the VISIBLE surfaces of the rubber gasket. If you remove the detergent dispenser and peer inside the opening, you may see a lot more mold inside the cavity. If you see mold inside the detergent dispenser cavity, imagine what the rest of the inside of your machine must look like. Do you run a periodic cleaning cycle as advised in the operating manual? Have you read the operating manual? Do you use the absolute minimum amount of HE (non foaming) detergent? Factory instructions for cleaning the door gasket call for mixing 3/4 cup of bleach into 1 gallon of warm water and applying this mixture to the affected gasket area, let stand 5 minutes and wipe the area down with a dry cloth. My experience has shown that this is a grossly inadequate concentration to deal with a deeply seated mold problem in the door gasket. To run the cleaning cycle, the factory calls for 2/3 cup of bleach to be added to the bleach dispenser. "Use of more than 2/3 cup of bleach will cause product damage OVER TIME". Initially, I would definitely consider using a whole lot more bleach than recommended and run two or more consecutive cleaning cycles. Then EVERY USE OF THE MACHINE: wipe the door gasket and all the creases and folds dry with a sponge, remove the detergent dispenser and wipe the cavity dry, leave the drawer out to dry on a clean towel, leave the door open, buy a cheapy plastic box fan and place it inside the machine and let it blow air around the inside of the machine for an hour or so to dry it off quickly, run a cleaning cycle at least once a month. If this sounds too involved or difficult, I would suggest switching to a top loading washer that is much less prone to develop mold growth as air can circulate in these types of machines to a much greater extent than the front loaders.

1 Put on rubber gloves and safety glasses before commencing the cleaning process.

2 Lay an old towel or drop cloth on the floor under the front of the washer to prevent floor damage as you clean.

3 Fill a plastic cup with bleach and dip a tooth brush into the bleach.

4 Remove the toothbrush and scrub the washing machine gasket with it to remove the black mold from it. Hold the gasket open with the fingers of your other hand so that you can clean the center grooves of the gasket where the most mold is likely to grow.

5 Rinse the toothbrush in the cup of bleach and continue cleaning until you have removed the mold from the entire gasket.

6 Wipe the gasket with a paper towel to remove excess bleach residue and any remaining mold.

When a moldy or musty smell develops in a washing machine, many times the smell is coming from the open areas of the agitator. Water along with soap and/or liquid softener sometimes splashes into an open agitator, and when the lid is closed it does not dry out. Instead, mold begins to form, and a musty smell wafts from inside the machine, even after the lid has been opened for an extended period of time. Until the mold is removed the washing machine will continue to smell bad, even if it is used and allowed to air dry with the lid open.The tub can also be the source of the smell. Lint can gather and collect in the holes, and when it does not dry fast enough it ends up smelling musty and moldy. Even the top of the rim can become moldy and musty, but proper cleaning can get rid of the odor.

So that said.To clean the machine,fill to just above the top row of holes in the tub.Add 2 cups of bleach.Let sit for 1-2 hours.Then let the machine run it`s wash cycle.Lastly use bleach water and a rag to wipe the machine down inside and out.If the agitator has a cup on top remove and clean with bleach.Leave the top open so the machine can dry.

Now it should smell better,if so use as normal,and leave the lid open when not in use.

You need to replace the door gasket. It's leaking air causing the frost.

Saturate an old cloth with white vinegar. Alternatively, you might use petroleum jelly on the cloth to remove the mold.Pull the gasket out gently with your hands to reveal the mold and mildew buildup inside the folds of the gasket.Wipe the mold away from the gasket with the cloth. Continue working to wipe away all mold from the folds of the rubber gasket.Dry the folds of the gasket with a dry cloth when you finish removing the mold.Repeat this procedure at least once per month to prevent mold and mildew from forming. If you notice mold occurring more frequently, clean it off when you see it.

Tips for Preventing Mold & Smelly Problems:

• Always leave the door and dispenser unit slightly ajar after the laundry is done. Front-load washers and the detergent/softener dispenser drawer must dry out.
• Never leave a wet washload in the washer overnight; remove it when the washing cycle is complete and leave the door open.
• After a load is done, always rotate the drum with your hand to see and remove all items. Some could be sticking to top or sides of the washer drum.
• Use softener sheets in the dryer instead of liquid softeners in the washer.
• Liquid detergents may leave less residue than powdered formulas which may not dissolve properly.
• Use less than the recommended detergent level for your load. Too much detergent can cause a residue build up. Experiment until you find a minimum measurement that delivers a clean wash. This is also a money saver.
• Occasionally wash some loads such as whites, linen and towels in warm or hot water to help flush out wash residue.
• Always clean your washer as per your product manual. High efficiency front-load models have a cleaning cycle and it's imperative that you periodically run this cycle as directed.
• Check the gasket just inside the door opening and remove any visible debris. You can also wipe it to speed the drying process.
• Always use HE detergents with high efficiency front-load washers. Specially marked HE laundry detergent is low sudsing and is recommended for these low-water washers.
• If this advice was helpful a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated. Thanks.

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



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I have been struggling with the same issue for a long time. Regular bleach and mold-killing products did not work. But I just tried Clorox "Washing Machine Cleaner" and was amazed. I scraped off the loose mold from the rubber gasket and then painted on the product, which is thicker than bleach. After about 20 min. I scrubbed it down with water and painted a second coat on the tough areas. No more mold. I also ran some through the machine per the instructions for good measure and ran another rinse cycle. I am in no way connected to Clorox, but I am so happy to be rid of this problem. Good luck. <!-- from fixya rte -->

The door seal need to be pulled almost inside out to be a able to thoroughly clean it. I usually use a 50-50 mix of bleach water but other cleaning products like oxyclean may work better. After cleaning run a load with no clothes in it to remove any residue. Now if the mold has gotten deep into the rubber and still looks blackish after cleaning it will get moldy real soon and replacement will be the only solution. The key is from day one to leave the door open as you do and also wipe the door seal with a towel after each use. Not to defend frigidaire but most of the other brands have the same issues, some worse. If you need to replace the door seal or if the wire ring pops off when cleaning here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/washerdoorseal.html

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!&*%#