My Gas Tank for my Mr. Heater has a ( for some unknow reason) plug in it on the bottom it is leaking and i need it fixed.

Tank has rusted out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
Replace with new tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Yes, you will need a regulator at the tank that can handle the maximum Btu Output of the heater. In addition to that, you also need enough 1/2" Flexible Copper Gas piping to run from the tank valve to the heater. In the line passes through a brick, cinder block or concrete wall, the gas line MUST be sleeved with either Black Iron Pipe or Rigid PVC Pipe. You'll also need assorted flair nuts and connectors.. As well as , a Inline Gas Shut Off Valve within a minimum of 2' from the heater. You will alos need a pipe bender for flexible copper pipe.

Having a friend who has a lot of knowledge and tools for installing gas appliances (running lines, making leak-less connections, etc) really helps.

it could be down to the draw off the tank pipe too small or reg is not for a 20lb tank , going to lock out check reg pressure should say on the side , or take hoes and reg off tank , put it back on and turn gas on slowly see if this helps

Here is some research I did on Mr. Heaters--
your Mr. Heater the model that uses two small one pound cylinders or you have the choice to hook it up to a single larger tank? if so, you must use the special filter connected to the Mr. Heater and then your hose to tank.
This happened to me and after I hooked up the filter my problem was fixed.
Ron
large and sealed of an area are you using it in? I ask because those units have a low oxygen sensor which will shut it down if there is not enough oxygen in the space.(kinda prevents that pesky suffocation thing). Otherwise if using it in larger cold spaces, the issue is can be from the smaller tanks. As mentioned above, a larger tank can solve this, because these units have a fairly good input rate, which will cause the smaller tanks to freeze, and lower the propane temperature and evaporation rate, basically runs out of gas until the tank warms back up.
just one new cylinder, it will run on just one, to verify a problem with the cylinders. Also it could be the pilot light, sit and watch the pilot light to see if it goes out for some reason. If it does the heater will shutdown automatically, but you already know that.

Let me know if we can help you further

Mack B

You will have to clean (possibly with a fine wire) the gas line orifice due to spider web blockage or rust. Not a big job, just start from the full tank and test the hose to see if gas blows through it. Then go to the next component, check on down the path. You'll find something.

It sounds to me like you need to increse gas pressure. Most propane fired units need at least a 11 inch water column of pressure for proper operation. This relates closely 7.5 ounces. I would have regulator checked out by qualified service techs. Thank you

I wrote a page on leaking water heaters with resources and information:
Page lists things to check.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html

Also run hand over tank to find warm spot that says where leak is coming from
A rusted tank cannot be repaired.

If your tank is rusted out, it might burst open and flood the area.
Hot water inside tank is under pressure.
Turn off heat source to water heater.
Turn off water valve located above tank.
Open tub faucet on hot side and relieve pressure from tank.

You can limp along with a leaking water heater by turning it on when hot water is needed.
For example a shower uses 5-9 gallons hot water.
Turn gas water heater on for 15-20 minutes.
Turn electric on for 20-30 minutes.

To conserve resources with next heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Tip the heater up so that the fuel is away from the drain plug hole and take the plug to an auto parts store. They have bulk o-rings there and can fit the needed O'ring to your plug.

I checked the parts manual:

http://www.mrheater.com/upload/newsletter/mh_50_75_125_150_175_210_BL.pdf

There is no drain plug listed for the tank. Only the tank assy. (Item 2)

You might even be able to get a copper crush washer similar to what is used on an automobile or motorcycle oil drain plug.

Kelly

I am not real familiar with the Mr Heater units, although I have been around Reddy Heaters for well over 30 years. The principal is the same, after all, Mr heater is a foreign knock-off of the Reddy Heater.
Check, in this order:
1. shine a flashlight in the tank- look for water droplets rolling around on the bottom.
2. check the fuel filter for restriction. A blocked filter will cause starvation.
3. with soapy water check for air leaks from the air pump to the nozzle. An air leak will cause reduced fuel delivery.
4. check the pump pressure, bring up to factory specs.
5. If you have turned the adjustment screw, move #5 up to #1.
6. check or replace the nozzle.
7. If the fuel delivery system checks out OK then you have an electronics problem, and I’ve been told that Mr Heater parts are rare and hard to come by.