We noted the the buzzing is located in the area of the lamp. As soon as the lamp ignites, the buzzing begins and continues to get louder as time passes. We changed out the lamp but the errant sound begins with the lighting of the new lamp. We suspect the motor on the color wheel.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Is it 3 sets of 2 buzzes about 15 seconds apart ?
---This is a bad bulb or an improperly installed replacement
or a continuous buzzing ?
----This is a Power Supply Unit going-bad or failed. The louder it gets the harder it is working....eventually it will fail. Ensure there is proper ventilation around your TV.
Buzzing is usally AC line noise leaking into an un-shielded cable somewhere or a floating ground. If the AC plug is reversible, try that. Sometimes the buzz is from an attached device. Make sure all audio cables are plugged in tightly at each end and routed away from or at right angles to any power cords and away from other sources of strong magnetic fields like TV's. I've also seen variable track lights induce noise but it's usually minor.
Most likely bad lamp . Listen for a very slight buzz from the rear of tv at power up. IT will buzz several times before lamp light begins to blink. IF it does and pix does not light suspect lamp .. Part number Ux21513
Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse, but in your case, i would pay close attention to the gas valve coils.
1. Gas valve coils igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
2. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
3. igniter igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.
Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).
4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor) Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector or Data Link Connector (DLC) may be located under the dash and sometimes covered with a plastic cover labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR.
On all 1990–95 models the diagnostic trouble codes can be read by grounding test terminal B. The terminal is most easily grounded by connecting it to terminal A (internal ECM ground). This is the terminal to the right of terminal B on the top row of the ALDL connector.
Once the terminals have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the ON position with the engine not running.
The Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light should be flashing. If it isn't, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON and confirm that light is now on. If it is not, replace the bulb and try again. If the bulb still will not light, or if it does not flash with the test terminal grounded, the system should be diagnosed by an experienced driveability technician. If the light is OK, proceed as follows.
The code(s) stored in memory may be read through counting the flashes of the dashboard warning lamp. The dash warning lamp should begin to flash Code 12. The code will display as one flash, a pause and two flashes. Code 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system acknowledgment or handshake code; its presence indicates that the PCM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence. Some vehicles also use Code 12 after all diagnostic codes have been sent.
After Code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, will each be transmitted 3 times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowest to highest.
NOTE: The order of codes in the memory does not indicate the order of occurrence.
If there are no codes stored, but a driveability or emissions problem is evident, the system should be diagnosed by an experienced driveability technician.
If one or more codes are stored, record them. Refer to the applicable Diagnostic Code chart in this section.
Switch the ignition OFF when finished with code retrieval or scan tool readings.
NOTE: After making repairs, clear the trouble codes and operate the vehicle to see if it will reset, indicating further problems.
You may not see any deterioration in the picture when the color wheel begins to go bad. The noise will get louder and eventually, it will shut down or the wheel will shatter while the motor continues to spin. If that happens, you'll have a black and white picture.
If its a Samsung DLP that is mercury vapor lamp driven, its a safe bet the color wheel is going bad.
The buzzing is the ballast for the lamp trying to light the bulb. From what you've described it is a lamp failure. It's not that hard to change but you'll have to obtain a new lamp first. You can try and buy it from LG (800-243-0000) but I'm not sure if they'll sell to a consumer. Then you have to reset the lamp timer after you replace it. Hold the mute on the remote and the enter button on the tv at the same time for about 8 seconds and a screen will come up asking if you want to reset the timer. Just follow what it says to reset it.