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HI, If the fuse is blowing of then there is problem with the inverter stage of amplifier. There is an inverter stage in the amplifier to boost the 12V to + or - 30 to 40V normally. Its a switching circuit normally uses Mosfets and ferrite core transformer and a driving IC. If the mosfet is shot then the fuse will blow off immediately after power is connected.
Check on thing remove the REM connection and then connect the power. If the fuse blows the there is fault with the Mosfet Its short. If the fuse blows only when you connect the REM then the amplifier stage is faulty.
Also check by disconnecting the speakers. if any of the speaker is faulty then there is a chance for fuse blow off.
Most probably you have grounding problem.Check for bodycar ground bolt if there is any rust or dirt.If your Amp restricting voltage to 6.5 you wouldn't have 12 V on the battery terminal eather,and fuse that supply power line would be blown by now.Defiinetly check ground,as you described problem above that what sounds is like
try to unplug each speaker one by one while playing it. There can be a defective speaker that grounds out at the speaker terminal or internally causing the amp to go into protection causing all the speakers to go out.
good day bro, from your Pioneer amp supply line do you also see a terminal marked as " System controller" ? did you also supply 12V DC to this terminal?
the standard power configuration for Pioneer Car amps would be:
12V Dc (+) supply / ( - ) supply ground / System Controller ( supplied by +12V DC)
12V ( + ) supply and The ( - ) supply ground is for stand by power, once you connect the supply through this terminal you will now have the stand by power but will not power on the unit even the LED power indicator.
System controller terminal, this should be supplied by ( + ) 12V line to power up the amp. this serves as the ON/OFF switch for the amp.
the car amp needs to be wired using a +12 power, ground, and +12v signal (rmt) cables.
the +12 volt cable needs to be connected from the posative terminal of the car battery to a fuse (the right size should be written on the amp somewhere) then to the +12v on the amp.
the ground cable needs to be connected to the negative terminal of your car battery.
the RMT is the more complicated one, this needs to be connected to the header unit or the ignition switch. if you look in the instructions for your header unit (the unict where you insert CD's or tapes etc) this should explain whewre exactly to connect this cable. or you can connect it to the terminal on the ignition switch which becomes live only when you turn the key, should be the third one in. this line basicly tells your amp to turn itself on when it recieves a 12v current. you can also wire it up to a manual switch directly from the battery by connecting another cable to the posative terminal of the battery then to a switch then to the RMT terminal of the amp.
This sounds like a signal problem. Make sure that all of your signal cables are plugged in fully. If all are, you need to check for coninuity between the shield ground of the head unit's RCA jacks and the case of the head unit. With no RCAs plugged into the head unit, you should read ~0 ohms between the shield of the RCA jacks and the case of the head unit.