Question about Sceptre X9G Komodo IV 19" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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Scepyre 17 in X7

Are the capacitators 740uf 25v screw in or snap in?

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  • Anonymous Jul 17, 2008

    These are the caps everyone else who has a sceptre lcd monitor has decribed . They are cylindrical....I think they have to be sodered but not sure.

  • joniclipper Jul 17, 2008

    the 4 objects in a line are the caps.. to remove them do you pop them out with pliers? And then sodier the new ones in?

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  • Master
  • 373 Answers

This board is out of my Sceptre X9G Komodo. The 740uf capacitors are clearly marked 25V. The 1200uf Caps are 10V. I ordered parts for mine to try. The darker 740 has a slightly "popped" top.
470 is about 10mm dia X 16-17mm long
1200 is about 10mm dia X 20? long
two leads on each about 5mm apart. They are soldered to the board.
scepyre 17 in X7 - d520c3b.jpg

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

  • Robert Veldman
    Robert Veldman Oct 15, 2009

    My 4 capacitors came in and I replaced all 4. Monitor works fine again! By the way, these capacitors have polarity... they must be put in the correct way. There is a long strip along the side of the cylinder. Orient the stripe towards the "steel wall".

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  • Sceptre Master
  • 848 Answers

Scepyre 17 in X7? This trouble maybe power supply or inverter boards is defective.
first you can test the voltage of the multr,and then check which part is defective.From Wisiny.com can find those parts
if you have any question,please let us know email:service@wisiny.com.thanks,we sincerely hope we can help you!
you can also check this boards whether suit you:
Sceptre LM004 Power Supply Backlight Inverter for X9G KOMODO

Posted on Mar 22, 2015

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  • Contributor
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Are you sure this is the correct cap? 740uf at 25v does not make much sense. Besides if this is an LCD then most likely all the caps would be radial.

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Can you use a 470uf 25v in place of a 330uf 25v


Usually not, The values are to far out of tolerance. You can go higher on the voltage part but not on the capacitance value. When rebuilding the power supplies you also need to be sure you are using the correct ratings on the capacitors in terms of ESR, Temp and Ripple current. Here is a link to a page that explains about capacitors and which ones to use for switching power supplies like in monitors.

http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/capacitors/


I hope this helps.

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It is probably OK, possibly a filtering capacitor, besides no one makes a 820uF any more.

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Optiquest Q7B-3 Model Vs11147


Actually that model has an integrated inverter with the power supply. Should be part # xlm1700390004 they cost around 25 bux and are fairly easy to replace.

If you are handy with soldering you could check the three 470 uf caps on the board they are tank caps and when they go they do what you are describing. Open the monitor and look at the three black capacitors if the top is bulged they are bad. If you have a capacitance meter check the capacitance it will most likly be well below 470 uf the caps are cheap like 39 cents if you do go this route use 30v not 25v caps to be on the safe side.

Word of warning switching power supplies can kill you quickly never work on it live and let it discharge at least an hour before working on it.

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1 Answer

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You slide in the 2 bent legs, then it doesnt snap. there are supposed to be 2 screws that hold it into place on the top portion of the stand. Find the correct screw size and your stand should keep your monitor up.

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2 Answers

Gateway 900g


I'm writing this using a recently repaired Gateway 900g. You may be correct about the power supply, as that was the problem on this unit. There was absolutely no response with this unit. No blue LED, no dim display. Nothing.

WARNING: BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE AC LINE CORD. THE POWER SUPPLY HAS DANGEROUS 120 VAC PRESENT IF LEFT PLUGGED IN. If you don't know what you're doing, it's best not to attempt a repair!!!

Disassembly is a bit tricky, and there's a variety of different sized screws used; so keep track as you go. First you remove the front bezel (be careful as the two control boards on the lower right need to be disconnected). There are two screws (lower left and lower right) that secure the shell, the rest of the frame is just a snap fit around the perimeter.

Then remove the 6 screws that hold the LCD frame to the rear plastic shell. Careful here as well, as you must disconnect the back light cables AND the signal cable to separate the LCD from the Power Supply / Signal Processing board.

The Power Supply board mates to the Signal Processing board thru a 2x5 pin header. This contains convenient points to check the +12V and +5V supplies. In my case the +12V was OK, but the +5V was reading about +2.5V...not good! THIS IS REALLY DANGEROUS TO CHECK AS THE 120VAC IS ONLY AN INCH AWAY.

Here was the key symptom on my unit. Your's may not be the same. If I disconnect the Power Supply from the Signal Processing board, then the +12V and +5V read correctly (as well as the +16V that goes to the Backlight Inverter section).

However, once I connect the Signal Processing board, the +5V drops to +2.5V. However, the Signal Processing board seems to run correctly off of an external supply drawing about 300mA.

On closer inspection of the Power Supply board, I notice that 4 capacitors had buldging tops (domed). This indicated some stress. These were capacitors C205, C206 (470uF/25V) in the +16V section; and C210 (470uF/25V) and C209 (220uF/25V) both in the +5V section. I didn't have a Capacitance Meter handy, so it was simpler to just replace all four parts with similar values. (There's a lot of latitude in making these substitutions.) But be sure you have voltages a *least* greated than those needed; i.e. 16V or 5V. They used 25V to have plenty of headroom.

After replacing the 4 Capacitors, the Voltages and Blue LED responded normally. After reconnecting to the LCD assembly, all was well. Reverse the disassembly process, and you are ready to go.

nateoceanside@hotmail.com

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

MONITER LIGHT IS GREEN BUT ONLY SHOWS A NORMAL SCREEN FOR 1/2 SECOND THEN TURNS BLACK


HI. I had the same problem with mine. It would flash the screen on for a split second and then turn black, the whole time the power light remained green. Upon opening up the case, I pulled the combo power supply board/inverter board out for inspection. I noticed one of the capacitors had a bulge on top indicating it was bad. It was the the 680uf 25v capacitor. I desoldered it, and soldered in the new one. After hooking everything back up, bingo!! Monitor now works perfectly. I couldn't find an exact match to the capacitance locally, but I had a 1000uf 35v cap in my utility box. It worked fine as a replacement. You can usually go within 30 percent of tolerance and be alright. Just don't go under on capacitance or voltage. I hope this helps.

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