Question about Gateway Tabor 3 (4000532) Motherboard

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Computer failure my monitor doesn't work and i don't know where is the problem

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I'm taking from what you said that the monitor is the problem. Try plugging it in to a different computer. If it works then you know that it's a problem with the computers display drivers, video card or similar. If not then you need a new monitor.

If you could provide information about your computer make and model I may be able to help you further.


Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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If the cpu turn on?but your monitor does not turn on mean problem in your monitor pin power cord! change the power cord pin!

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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No display on monitor

No Signal, or monitor going into Sleep Mode, or Power Saver Mode.

No video signal is coming from the computer to the monitor.

1) Check the monitor cable. Substitute with another KNOWN to be good monitor cable, or if it is attached use a KNOWN to be working monitor, and cable.

2) Monitor cable checks out OK the problem is the computer.
The two leading causes of desktop computer failure is the computer is dirty inside, and Power Supply failure.

FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions;
Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open. TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static electricity.

IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return.

Use a can, or two, of compressed air for computers, and clean out the inside of the computer. Attach the plastic straw provided into the nozzle, and break the plastic lock tab off the top of the nozzle.
Pay special attention to the Processor fan, and finned Heatsink under it.
(You may need to use Q-tips also, to 'break the crust' of the Gunk, so the air can remove it)

3) Computer isn't dirty inside, or cleaning brings no joy?
Power Supply could have a weak voltage power rail.
(There are three; 3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts)

1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is.

This is why you may see LED lights light, and maybe fans spin, but the computer doesn't come on.
NOT enough power to turn the Processor on.

Suggest test the 3 main voltages coming out of the Power Supply, or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply for a test unit.
Perhaps there is a working unused computer you can borrow it's Power Supply, for a test unit.

An economical multimeter can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12. Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.

If you know how to use a multimeter set it to DC Voltage. (Unless it is one of the ones, that automatically sense whether it is AC voltage, or DC voltage)
Use straightened out paper clips inserted into the back of the 20-pin, or 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector,

Main power cable is plugged in, as shown in the photo to the far right.
The straightened out paper clip goes down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole.
Has to slide down in the socket hole past the insulation of the wire, and touch a metal terminal at the end of the wire.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts (DC)
Red wires are 5 Volts (DC)
Yellow wires are 12 Volts (DC)
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative)

Power supply turned on; (Computer turned on),
Paper clip in Orange wire socket hole. Positive (Red) probe lead touches it.
Paper clip in ANY socket hole with a Black wire. Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches it.
You should be reading VERY close to 3.3 Volts (DC)

Do the same for a Red wire, (5 Volts), and a Yellow wire. (12 Volts)

Worried about shock?
Two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
The dangerous voltages are contained in the metal case of the Power Supply.

Also following Anti-Static Precautions, remove the Ram Memory module/s ('Stick'), and clean the gold plated contact pins with an eraser.

Handle the Ram Memory module by the BODY.
The Body is everywhere on the ram memory module, Except the gold plated contact pins on the bottom,

The Body is coated with a see-through protective plastic.
If you are using an eraser on the end of a pencil, and not a solid eraser, refrain from letting the metal band of the pencil touch the gold plated contact pins.

Rub up, and down on EACH contact pin. BOTH sides. Doesn't take much pressure, and very much cleaning. The contact pins may not appear shiny, and bright when you are done. When you are finished it may seem like you have done nothing at all. I assure you that you have.
Doesn't take very much 'corrosion' to make a bad contact.

Use air to remove the eraser dust. If you have a can of compressed air you can use it. If not air pressure from your mouth will be sufficient.
Reinstall the ram memory module/s.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


Oct 01, 2012 | ASUS Motherboards

1 Answer

What is wrong with my computer?

Is the monitor new? Because some monitors need to warm-up a little bit. Have you tried to remove video card and/or mother board and reinsert? If that doesn't work, try the video card in another PC, If it works there, then the video card itself is probably not the problem. (recommended). And those beeps (3-3-3-1) mean "Erase F2 prompt", but I don't know exactly what that means. This is all I know for now.

Jul 31, 2012 | EliteGroup ECS A890GXMA AM3 AMD 890GX HDMI...

1 Answer

I have a Samsung syncmaster 2233ws monitor every time I turn my monitor on it stays on for about 2 to 3 seconds and then it goes black I checked all of the capasitors on the mother board and they all...

I would still lean toward the computer being the issue. A lot of newer monitors will pop up something like "no signal" for 2-3 seconds and then enter power saving mode by default. If your getting at least this for a few seconds I would say the computer isn't working. Please note a computer can still have fans and lights going and still be bad. If you have lights and/or fans going I would start by replacing the power supply on the computer.
The easiest thing to do to narrow a problem down is rule out as much as you can. For the monitor if you have another computer, laptop or a friends laptop hook up the monitor to it and test. Monitor works then you have narrowed your issue to your computer. If the monitor still isn't working (you need to toggle the display generally on laptops [fn + F7] usually) then you know its the monitor.
By the way Samsung generally has a 5 year warranty on monitors.
If you have ruled out the monitor and power supply I would then try the following
  • If you have a dedicated graphics card, remove it and plug monitor into on-board video. If it works you know its the graphics card if it doesn't then it's most likely your motherboard.
  • Also can try completely unplugging the computer (pull power cord for 30 seconds) computers don't really turn all they way off usually they sit in S5 power mode)
  • Can also try pulling (if you have more than 1 stick of ram) pull all but one out and try powering on, repeat for each stick until it works. I have seen bad memory prevent computers from booting
Comment back if you need further assistance

Aug 23, 2011 | Motherboards

3 Answers

My monitor takes 40 minutes to display picture so i used another monitor/ smaller .. and that starts right up ? is it the defective capacitors on the curcuit board? sometime i have to wait 40...

The way your monitor is acting is typical of bad capacitors. Really dead capacitors usually keep a circuit from operating at all. Other times, capacitors can be bad so that they are just extremely slow to charge up. But once they do charge, the circuit works fine until you turn off the monitor. Then, as you've seen, the trouble repeats.

You haven't said whether this is a CRT (conventional picture tube) or LCD monitor. If it's an LCD, it might be worth trying to fix if you know someone who's willing to try it. Many websites show how to take apart a monitor, identify bad capacitors, and how to remove and replace bad ones. Replacement parts are available from many sources (maybe even at Radio Shack). On the other hand, if this is a CRT monitor, you're probably better off just getting a new LCD one. Working on a CRT type is more difficult and more hazardous voltages are involved, and sooner or later you'll be replacing it anyway when the tube goes bad. Now is a good excuse to go shopping.

Whatever you decide, good luck, and thanks for using Fixya!

Jul 03, 2011 | Motherboards

1 Answer

When I turn on my 2 terabyte LaCie DD3US external hard drive, disk appears to rotate but I get a red light along with the blue, and clicking noises, and the drive's icon doesn't show on my iMac...

If the device doesn't show up in Mac System Profiler at all or as an unknown device:
The symptoms indicate there is a problem with the drive, how it is connected, or with the computer used for troubleshooting. The next best step is to change physical variables, and find a simpler problem than a broken product.
  • Change the data cable (USB, FireWire, Ethernet, etc.) A failure in the cable can cause this issue.
  • Change the external power supply or cable. If possible, obtain another power cabling to see if the problem is in that component. On drives that are powered via USB or Firewire, try using the included power sharing cable and connect it to another port.
  • Change the computer you are using. Computer problems can manifest themselves in many ways. Even if the computer appears to be working properly, this is a worthwhile test. Try it on a friend's computer and see if it works fine.
If the tests above don't help, it's possible that the drive was either dropped while running, had a hard drive 'head crash' or the circuitry inside the drive is fried.
Hope this helps!

Jun 20, 2011 | Motherboards

1 Answer

Please help.. my monitor has no display and my don't even beep. the LED in the monitor turns back to orange after few seconds. cpu, disk drives and ram are working..

This is one of the serious problem that arises because if you set your monitor with a high resolution with high frequency, then the monitor doesn't display anything as it's frequency is out of the rang or limit of the monitor's actual resolution capacity. Each monitor will have a limit of max frequency that is said to be the Refresh rate (for each and every resolution setting the display is refreshed.) When high resolution is set with high frequency that is not supported by the monitor, it then display a message like "frequency out of range". If you press ESC key within the few seconds of this setting, it will revert back to its initial resolution. But if you continued with the setting of same High resolution with High frequency, the monitor is not going to display anything because its frequency is out of the range. Most of old monitors like CRT's etc doesn't support 1024×768 at a refresh rate greater than 60Hz.

Jun 20, 2011 | Asrock P4I45GV R5 Motherboard

1 Answer

My e machine monitor went off and wont come back on

try hooking it up to another monitor that you know that Works! If this works your monitor is Bad! If it doesn't?It's your Video Card! hope this helps!

Jun 02, 2011 | E-Machines Motherboards

1 Answer

Monitor /keyboard will not come on when computer boots, monitor light never turns green and no leds lit on keyboard,know both items r working tried on different computer and both work.Also processor fan is...

did u check the ram? please pick out RAM and placed in next slot. i will happen due to failure in RAM. is there any beep tone? ok
check your RAM.
i hope that is the problems of RAM

May 04, 2009 | Motherboards

1 Answer

Computer will not boot - no signal getting to monitor

Have you check the video card, is it loose, not sitting right, beeps are either memory, video or a bad mobo. here's a list of beep codes; the numbers represent the amount of beeps
1   The memory refresh circuitry has failed 2   Parity errors have been detected in the first 64 KB of memory 3   A failure has occurred within the first 64 KB or memory 4   System Timer failure: Timer 1 on the mainboard does not work properly 5   The CPU has generated an undetectable error 6 8042 Gate-A20 failure: BIOS cannot switch the CPU into protected mode 7   The CPU has generated an exception error 8   The video adapter is missing, or the memory on the adapter has generated a failure 9   The ROM checksum value does not match the value in BIOS 10     The shutdown register for CMOS interrupt channel 2 has failed POST; the system board cannot retrieve CMOS contents during POST 11 Level-2 cache memory has failed the tests, and has been disabled 2 short POST has failed, caused by a failure of one of the hardware tests 1 long, 2 short Failure in video system: a checksum error was encountered in video BIOS ROM, or a horizontal retrace failure has been encountered 1 long, 3 short Failure in video system: the video DAC, the monitor detection procedure or the video RAM has failed 1 long POST procedures have passed

Feb 21, 2009 | Asrock K7VM2 Motherboard

1 Answer

Unable to boot past BIOS

Hi Hanjiya, I suspect a hardware failure; I would pull off everything you can to make this as basic a PC as you can. Hardware POST checks, fans and LEDs are good to do very basic tests and elimination but are not definitive tests. If it still doesn?t work I would try using a power supply tester or switch out with a known good, followed by the RAM, processor and video card leaving only the motherboard. If you get this far and the problem is still there then your failure is the motherboard. Look for damaged capacitors with rounded tops or corrosion at the base. I?ve had two 2004-2006 era Dells refuse to complete the POST because of defective capacitors just recently. If still no luck you might try buying a pre-POST diagnostic card ($50 and up). If you don?t want to invest in that you should consider taking your PC to a shop that does have one. I know it runs again most of our personalities to pay a tech but consider this. I?ve run into lots of people who spend weeks and big bucks troubleshooting a problem someone with the right equipment can diagnose cheaply (overall) the first time. Without the test equipment or a similar PC you can use for parts you?re going to have to start buying parts one at a time in a process of elimination. Let us know if you have any more questions or comments and please don?t forget to rate the posting.

Jan 17, 2007 | ASUS P5LD2 Motherboard

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