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There is a fuse which can be located near where the cord enters the cabinet, or behind the control panel.
If you replace it, and it continues to blow, you could have an intermittent door switch, or a weak fuse holder.
If it is a door switch problem, both the bad switch and the monitor/short switch should be replaced. On inverter ovens, the power relay should be replaced.
Interlock switchIf your
microwave is turning itself on, the first thing to check is the
interlock switch. This is usually the first thing to malfunction that
could cause this issue. If the interlock switch is bad then it will need
to be replaced.
Main control boardIf
your microwave is turning itself on and the interlock switch is still
working, the probable cause is the main control board. If the control
board is defective it will need to be replaced.
(Fuse is a ceramic fast blow 20A Little Fuse 0314020 or Eton ABC-20) Melting I²t 631
If the Fuse blows when the door is opened. (not even energizing the microwave) The bottom micro switch (monitor micro switch) is normally closed, (open when the door is closed) however if it remains in the closed state when the door is open you will have a short circuit with the Primary Micro switch. The circuit diagram shows that one of the two switches must be open. I was able to test with an ohm meter. With a bad switch the reading was less than an ohm with the door open and 290 ohms with the door closed - Across the plug with a good fuse. With the new micro switch the resistance shouldn't change by much with the door open or closed.
the problem your are experiencing with your microwave oven is a failed interlock switch. Be careful when closing your microwave door. Slamming the door too hard is one of the main reasons that the interlock switch is damaged.
Slamming the microwave door shut can easily blow the microwave fuse, but they can also blow due to problems with the interlock switches. A microwave oven will not function until the fuse is replaced.
Instruction on how to replace fuse on microwave.
1. Unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet to prevent electrocution. Place the microwave in a well-lit area to be able to locate the fuse.
2. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer cabinet of the microwave, and follow the power cord to the fuse. The fuse is located 2 to 3 inches within the microwave and is attached to the power board.
3. Observe the fuse to determine if it is blown. Blown glass fuses will produce burn marks on nearby surfaces, or the internal fuse wire will be black and melted, while ceramic fuses show no outward appearance of being blown.
4. Determine if a ceramic fuse is blown by testing it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is not blown. Other readings on the ohmmeter show that your fuse is blown.
5. Replace the blown fuse by popping it out of its holder, and snapping a new fuse in its place. Tighten the fuse clips by squeezing them together with your fingers.
6. Replace the outer cabinet of the microwave, and plug the microwave back into the electrical outlet. Test the microwave to see if it's working properly.
Yes! this should be checked right away to make sure the magnetron is not running with the fan when the door is open , it may be a problem with one of the door switches going bad, left unchecked it probably blow the fuse in the microwave killing all power, but it is quite repairable. But please do not use until it has been checked out by a professional for safety reasons.
If a fuse blew, somthing is worng, not the fuse. In that case cheaper to replace the unit. Much more common is safety switch issues. Like door switches....small looseness can make switch not seat or close. Safety first.
A comment about microwave leaking, I used to test TONS of units and never, ever found a machine that leaked microwaves....I quit testing, essentially if the door closes properly, it will not leak.
I had same problem last week. My GE JVM1650 Spacemaker stopped after a few seconds of heating. Owned 16 months, manufactured Jan 2005. It was the magnetron, which was replaced yesterday. The magnetron has a 10-year warranty, but I had to pay $161.00 for labor by a GE technician. The call-out fee was waived at my request. I don't know what that amount would have been, but I can't believe the $161.00 for what was about 1/2 hour labor once diagnosed. Good Luck!
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