Question about Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

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Fuse http://senduit.com/5cf6c4

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  • jm039104 Jul 30, 2008

    The unit has no power indication when it is pluged with electric outlet. No response at all.

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Hi - Thanks for sending it again. If the fuse is good, then it "must" be the starting capacitor under suspicion now. Induction motors won't start without them - they just sit still and hum quietly to themselves.

If you can't see these items elsewhere they are most likely hidden inside the casing. Take care if you try to open it - the bearings may be quite delicate. Bear also in mind that failure of the start capacitor may have caused the motor to overheat so killing the thermal fuse.
Hope this helps you a bit further. Cheers, D.

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Blown Fuse


Hi,
I would guess that your compressor has gone bad and is blowing the fuse...
There are many reasons for a dehumidifier2_bing.gif to not work or collect water.
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people to figure out what is going wrong with their dehumidifier2_bing.gif.

Dehumidifier is running but no water is in bucket
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4662409-dehumidifier_running_but_no_water_in

heatman101

May 23, 2010 | Haier HDN655E 65 Pint Dehumidifier...

1 Answer

The unit starts but the fan dont run


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Jan 03, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

AMCOR SD10 Dehumidifier, Need to replace the electric fan motor.


Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 30, 2009 | Amcor Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

Have power and it runs. fan will not go on.


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 25, 2009 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Dehumidifier will not extract any moisture & produces no heat


fan not blowing air?
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 23, 2009 | Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

We have a LG LHD65EBL Serial # 603TAAC20984. My Husband said that he thinks the armature in the fan motor is bad. Everything in or basement went moldy over the summer. We heard it running but it was not...


Sure, you can find parts on line, just search "lg parts" then look for you model.
http://www.lge.com/us/support/parts/support-find-parts.jsp

If the fan is not working:Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND
t working the likely problem is:

Dec 06, 2009 | LG LHD65EBL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Totally shut down, no lights , nothing. It just quit as if someone pulled the plug. Is there a reset switch or is it now a piece of junk?


It either needs a new fuse or a new ZD2 diode. Both fixes will require you to take the unit apart. The fuse is easy to replace, but the diode will require soldering. Check out ... http://www.fixya.com/support/t611765-dehumidifier_just_quit_working

Jul 24, 2009 | Haier HDN455 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Fuse


Is there any way you could test the continuity of the fuse - or "jump" it temporarily - without heating it to over 130F, of course! Some thermal fuses can be broken without looking the part.

130F seems a very low temp... Can you post or send me the schematic?

Jul 15, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Fan motor


Hi,
I can't imagine why a >thermal< fuse would be insulated as I thought they were designed to melt when the ambient temperature exceeded the stated value
There are some pics of typical thermal fuses here :-
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=thermal+fuse
I also have difficulty imagining why they would out such a component in a fan motor assembly - it's not the sort of thing that usually catches fire!
Equally, a non-thermal filament type fuse would normally be placed where it could be seen and replaced. I would expect it to be mounted on a pcb - soldered in, perhaps, but in an obvious place.
We are not allowed to exchange emails via fixya.com, but if you wanted to upload that schematic to senduit.com, and then post the download link here, perhaps I could take a look at the schematic myself.
Sorry this is taking so long to sort out!
Cheers, D.

If the fuse is not

Jul 15, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

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