Question about Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

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Fuse http://senduit.com/8d35cd It shows a Fuse 2A 130 degrees F in the schematic. There is a fuse on the PCB but I'm not sure if this is what they are referring to in the schem. The fuse on the PCB is not burned out.

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Is there any way you could test the continuity of the fuse - or "jump" it temporarily - without heating it to over 130F, of course! Some thermal fuses can be broken without looking the part.

130F seems a very low temp... Can you post or send me the schematic?

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

  • Richard Raynor Jul 15, 2008

    Ah - the file has expired. Could you send it again and make it good for 24 hrs please? Thanks D.

  • DMaurer678 Nov 04, 2010

    The thermal fuse is attached to the black wire and is locating inside the motor housing. You can jump the black wire to the blue wire to make the fan run temporarily to confirm that the problem is the fuse.

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The unit starts but the fan dont run


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Jan 03, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

AMCOR SD10 Dehumidifier, Need to replace the electric fan motor.


Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 30, 2009 | Amcor Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

Have power and it runs. fan will not go on.


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 25, 2009 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Dehumidifier will not extract any moisture & produces no heat


fan not blowing air?
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 23, 2009 | Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

It turns on and the filter is clean but it doesn't remove the humidity from our basement. No water accumulates in the pan after hours of running.


If the room temperature is close to 60, the coils may be frozen (completely encased in ice). If this is the case, move it where the water can drain off - about 1 gallon which may NOT run into the drain bucket.
I out mine over the floor drain.
Turn off and it will defrost over night.
Only specially made dehumidifiers work below a room temp of 60 degrees (the temp of a basement in winter).
Does it need to be running? A digital humidity sensor from Radio Shack is cheap and may tell you the humidity is OK - only 50% or less


Is the fan blowing out air? If not
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND


Dec 16, 2009 | Haier HD306 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

We have a LG LHD65EBL Serial # 603TAAC20984. My Husband said that he thinks the armature in the fan motor is bad. Everything in or basement went moldy over the summer. We heard it running but it was not...


Sure, you can find parts on line, just search "lg parts" then look for you model.
http://www.lge.com/us/support/parts/support-find-parts.jsp

If the fan is not working:Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND
t working the likely problem is:

Dec 06, 2009 | LG LHD65EBL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Location of Maytag M7DH45B2A motor fuse


I'm fixing one of these too. Take the top off (follow the AC cord) and the fuse is on the PCB.

I am also looking for a better wiring diagram - the control panel on mine does not light up.

Aug 21, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Bad fan motor on DH504ELY5?


problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Aug 20, 2008 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Fuse


Hi - Thanks for sending it again. If the fuse is good, then it "must" be the starting capacitor under suspicion now. Induction motors won't start without them - they just sit still and hum quietly to themselves.

If you can't see these items elsewhere they are most likely hidden inside the casing. Take care if you try to open it - the bearings may be quite delicate. Bear also in mind that failure of the start capacitor may have caused the motor to overheat so killing the thermal fuse.
Hope this helps you a bit further. Cheers, D.

Jul 15, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Fan motor


Hi,
I can't imagine why a >thermal< fuse would be insulated as I thought they were designed to melt when the ambient temperature exceeded the stated value
There are some pics of typical thermal fuses here :-
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=thermal+fuse
I also have difficulty imagining why they would out such a component in a fan motor assembly - it's not the sort of thing that usually catches fire!
Equally, a non-thermal filament type fuse would normally be placed where it could be seen and replaced. I would expect it to be mounted on a pcb - soldered in, perhaps, but in an obvious place.
We are not allowed to exchange emails via fixya.com, but if you wanted to upload that schematic to senduit.com, and then post the download link here, perhaps I could take a look at the schematic myself.
Sorry this is taking so long to sort out!
Cheers, D.

If the fuse is not

Jul 15, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

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