Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
am not sure.. just try this
Check with a multi-meter for 115/220V on motor's tags.
If you don't get this voltage measurement, your problem is not with the motor.
In case you have 115/220V on motor's tags, try first to replace its brushes (2 carbon contacts that transfer the curent to the motor's armature).
try this good luck
Posted on Dec 25, 2007
If you have a disposal make sure it is clear. You can put some icecubes in it to clean the blades and run some water through to make sure the drain is clear. If the dishwasher will still not pump out all the water check the drain line from the dishwasher to the sink drain for obstructions. If the drain is you will have to check the pump for obstructions. Sometimes glass, popcorn, toothpicks etc.... can get in the pump and prevent it from pumping out. If the pump is clear, then you will need a new pump. Good luck to you.
Posted on Oct 30, 2008
SOURCE: Maytag Dishwasher Leak
HI. this is a inlet assembly issue. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow. There are two wires (four, if it has two solenoids) connected to the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. If your valve has two solenoids, test the second one in the same way as the first.
If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the dishwasher is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
***(((NOTE-- It i possible that the valve housing has cracked as well. make sure that the hoses are connected properly during your testing. If there are no hose issues, this will be a defective valve assembly)))
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
SOURCE: My Bosch dishwasher runs long.
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description I'd say the issue actually with the control...unfortunately.
**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, you can check with yours, though many not included here still suffers from the same problem...you'll need the serial number too. Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **
As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).
If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning and obviously no "extra" heat ( aside from the water inlet temp. ) as a result.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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