Solution - MEASURE voltage in outlet with digital meter and if it is not ~115 V or very close do nothing - wait till it gets to norm.
Longer explanation: I had similar problem today. Dryer fine, washer (front loader Affinity 6000) dead. Electric power there. Day before had no electricity for few hours. Turned out to be that this thing is sensitive to voltage. I have now from 101 to 103 volts and it needs something close to 115. I have almost disassembled it but it was hard to do and no manual on web (except to purchase for $15). So, after removing back paned and few screws from front I have turned my attention to my UPS I have for TV - it sometimes would blink with blue diode (means it is starting). I thought why... Then I have luminescent (energy saver) lamps around house and those are not sensitive to voltage so lights are fine. In bathroom however I have halogens and those seemed dim. This time I have looked at my tester again and noticed that it shows ~101.2 volts. So I am taking UPS from my TV and moving it to laundry, plug UPS to outlet, washer to UPS - washer still dead. I unplug UPS from outlet and washer comes alive...
Hope this helps. Orest Dmytryshyn Edmonton, Canada
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Hi, did you try turning the buzzer off with the knob on the right side of the operation panel (which is also used as the start button)? If you turn that knob to the left, it should turn off the buzzer.
If it still buzzes, the switch behind that knob may be faulty. You can get at it by removing the panel at the rear of the dryer (6 screws) and then you can test it and adjust its internal contacts if need be.
If you suspect you have a defective timer it can easily be replaced by performing the following steps:
1. Unplug washing machine... and pull out the timer knob. Some knobs have a removeable center cap and hidden screw. Some are simply slip-fit. Remove the knob.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Disconnect all power plugs and remove the timer's mounting screws.
5. Reinstall reverse of removal.
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I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.
Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.