Question about Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

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Fan motor I checked the fan motor schematic and there is a fuse somewhere within the fan motor assembly, I think? Would a thermal fuse be wrapped within the wires leading to the motor or in the motor assembly itself? I'm thinking of cutting open the insulated wiring to find out. Thanks.

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Hi,
I can't imagine why a >thermal< fuse would be insulated as I thought they were designed to melt when the ambient temperature exceeded the stated value
There are some pics of typical thermal fuses here :-
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=thermal+fuse
I also have difficulty imagining why they would out such a component in a fan motor assembly - it's not the sort of thing that usually catches fire!
Equally, a non-thermal filament type fuse would normally be placed where it could be seen and replaced. I would expect it to be mounted on a pcb - soldered in, perhaps, but in an obvious place.
We are not allowed to exchange emails via fixya.com, but if you wanted to upload that schematic to senduit.com, and then post the download link here, perhaps I could take a look at the schematic myself.
Sorry this is taking so long to sort out!
Cheers, D.

If the fuse is not

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

  • DMaurer678 Nov 04, 2010

    The thermal fuse is attached to the black wire inside the motor housing. It protects from fire in the event of an overheated motor.

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I have a DH504EL. Should the fan run constantly? It hums, so I know the motor is running, but the fan isn't moving>


if the fan is simply humming but not turning over take the back cover off and make sure the blower piece is free turning. i used to have a dehumidifier(goldstar similar model long sold though) it had a bad thermal fuse in the fan motor but compressor worked perfect. bolt is i think 10mm and i had to peel the tape off of the motor windings to get at the fuse. soldered new one in(p/o gave me new fuse and 10 bucks to get it out of his hair what a deal:) ) and retaped the windings. also the felt bearings may be loose but i just lubed the front and back bearing housings well with syn-lube(valvoline for brakes) and reassembled. baby oil works wonders so does vasoline but due to heat that trick does not last long before making a racket and leaves a **** on the assemblies underneath(mess) so try the high temp lube or any moly based brake lube

Sep 12, 2011 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

2 Answers

Unit is on fan not running


Hi,
There are many reasons for a dehumidifier2_bing.gif to not work or collect water.
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people to figure out what is going wrong with their dehumidifier.

Dehumidifier is running but no water is in bucket
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4662409-dehumidifier_running_but_no_water_in

heatman101

Mar 31, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

The unit starts but the fan dont run


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Jan 03, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

AMCOR SD10 Dehumidifier, Need to replace the electric fan motor.


Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 30, 2009 | Amcor Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

Have power and it runs. fan will not go on.


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 25, 2009 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Dehumidifier will not extract any moisture & produces no heat


fan not blowing air?
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 23, 2009 | Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

It turns on and the filter is clean but it doesn't remove the humidity from our basement. No water accumulates in the pan after hours of running.


If the room temperature is close to 60, the coils may be frozen (completely encased in ice). If this is the case, move it where the water can drain off - about 1 gallon which may NOT run into the drain bucket.
I out mine over the floor drain.
Turn off and it will defrost over night.
Only specially made dehumidifiers work below a room temp of 60 degrees (the temp of a basement in winter).
Does it need to be running? A digital humidity sensor from Radio Shack is cheap and may tell you the humidity is OK - only 50% or less


Is the fan blowing out air? If not
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND


Dec 16, 2009 | Haier HD306 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

We have a LG LHD65EBL Serial # 603TAAC20984. My Husband said that he thinks the armature in the fan motor is bad. Everything in or basement went moldy over the summer. We heard it running but it was not...


Sure, you can find parts on line, just search "lg parts" then look for you model.
http://www.lge.com/us/support/parts/support-find-parts.jsp

If the fan is not working:Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND
t working the likely problem is:

Dec 06, 2009 | LG LHD65EBL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Bad fan motor on DH504ELY5?


problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Aug 20, 2008 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

7 Answers

Fan not working


You can purchase a new fan motor. But the same problem will probably happen again. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a yellow thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the red wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working (in effect it was an open circuit). Once replaced the motor worked fine. this is the second time in about two years that this problem happened. The first time Sears fixed for about $100 and three weeks. This time I saved the money and did the repair myself. I would guess you could buy a new thermistor for about $5.00 from a parts house like digiKey or National Electronics. You will need to know how to use a soldering iron to repair this.

Jan 18, 2008 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

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