Question about Air Conditioners
The chiler in the attic keeps on going long after the air unit outside stops. i am thinking that it's the thermostat .the thermostat is about 20 years old and is not a digital one. i took it apart and cleaned it checked for loose wires and put back but the problem continues. sometimed it works fine and sometimes it doesn't. i was going to replace the thermostat. help////////////
SOURCE: Air Conditioner malfunction
Hi, Sounds like you have a short in the control circuit to me. Turn off all power going to the unit. Write down or otherwise mark the wires leaving the control board going to the thermostat. Remove them from the control board. Replace the fuse. Turn power back on and see if the fan still runs. If it does, check and or replace the heat limit switch that brings the fan on during the heat cycle. It may just need adjusted. If the fuse blows, I would think that the control board is probably bad. If it doesn't blow, Remove the thermostat. Leaving all thermostat wires open check them with an Ohm meter. There should be no continuity between them. Twist all the wires together at one end and ohm them again at the other end. You should have complete continuity on all wires. If the wiring checks out, down power the unit. Double check your wire colors and rewire the control board. With all wires open at the thermostat, turn the power back on. Touch the RED wire to the YELLOW wire. The Condensing unit should come on. Touch the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The fan should come on. Touch the RED wire to the WHITE wire. The heat should come on. Down power the unit. Replace the thermostat. Test unit. If the fuse has lasted ok but blows now it is either wired wrong at the Thermostat or the thermostat is bad. I hope I have helped. NOTE: If you can not understand these instructions. Call a licensed Heating / Air conditioning company. kstfas
Posted on Sep 23, 2007
Typically if you have a yellow wire in the "y" terminal blue is used as common or "c". As far as your jumper from rc to rh, that will depend upon what type of heat you have. If all of your heat and cooling come from your packaged unit outside, yes you will need the jumper. If this does not work maybe you have a bad breaker or transfomer.
Posted on Oct 14, 2007
Clicking sound is the contactor engaging to start the outside unit. Check for a burnt off wire at the contactor. For some reason you are not getting power to the outside unit. If you find a burnt off wire shut off all power to it then remake the connection at the point of the circuit break.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
SOURCE: Thermostat wiring
99.99% of the modern residential units use only one transformer to power the 24 volts for both the furnace and the a/c unit. It will be located in the furnace. The outdoor unit will not have its own transformer unless its reeallllly old. Place a small jumper wire between w1 & w2 terminals on the thermostat. (The lux brand is not the professionals choice) (if you have problems replace with a honeywell or white rodgers brand).
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
unless you have a meter youneed to see if the unit is asking the fan to turn on. if so the fan (which i doubt) maybe gone bad or the starting capasitor for the fan... is there anyway of checking the voltage to the fan
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
SOURCE: Wiring Trane/Honeywell TH8320U
use the outside designations for heat pump, and inside for standard, I would assume a heat pump since you have more than five wires attached to it now. Use the colors of the wire to match to the designations, use tan for y2, black for w2 rc and rh should already have a factory jumper. I would have to trace out the "U" and see where it terminates, I have not seen a bare wire on a stat in 27 years of doing this. before powering, verify the tan and black at the indoor unit circuit board and see if they are landed on the terminals designated at the stat. hope this helps
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
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