I have 2 Maytag window units that we have recently begun running 24/7 since our central air went out (we are in the South so going without AC in July is not an option). Our house is a two-story "shoebox" - only 1200 sq ft. so this temporary fix has worked well enough to keep the spouse (a/k/a "the hot one") cool and yet not cause me to wear winter clothes in the house.
The unit in our bedroom has begun making a loud "cracking" noise - think the sound of hail hitting the outside portion of the unit. It's frequent enough and sporadic enough to keep this light sleeper awake and posting on this message board at 4 AM.
I have noticed that while it's cooling, it's not cooling as well as it was, say, a month or so ago.
Can you please help me? My sanity depends on it - I need to sleep!
Thank you in advance for any advice you're willing to give!
Its refrigerant gas has leaked out so ice is forming on the evaporator which breaks and causes this cracking sound. The same is resulting in less cooling as well. Get the refrigerant gas pressure checked and fixed.
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Many people look into installing air conditioning in their home every year. There are many options to consider when it comes time to make that decision. To help make that decision more clear, I will explore some of the positives and negatives of the two major options. Ductless Split A/C type units lately are also becoming more of a popular option. I will do another “Tips and Tricks” on that option. To include that in this one would just be more confusing. So for now we will just look at window airconditioners and central air conditioning.
Central air conditioning is usually the best way to go if you already have a central hot air heating system already installed in your house or building. The advantage that you have is that you already have the air handler or blower part already installed. The ductwork for the distribution of the air is also all ready in place. The ductwork may need some modification to make it work well for air conditioning, but the major part of it should be adequate. To use the existing furnace and ductwork an A/C coil will need to be installed at the furnace. An outdoor condenser unit will be installed outside and copper tubing will be used to connect the coil to the outdoor unit. Some electrical wiring will need to be done to power the outdoor unit. Low voltage wiring will also be needed to hookup the thermostat, the furnace, and the outdoor unit together so that they can talk to each other. Basically the thermostat will just tell the furnace to run the blower on high speed and the outdoor condenser to start up. If there is no central hot air heating, then the installation of central air conditioning can be much more difficult. Many homes that do not have hot air heat also do not have the room to install ductwork. This would eliminate this possibility. If you are in this category you should get a professional to look at your situation to see if central air conditioning can be done. If it is the room available is to enough to do a good job and get large enough ductwork installed, then do not force the issue and go another option. Ductless split type air conditioning may be your best option.
A window air conditioner in my opinion is a last resort for air conditioning your house or building. There are many down sides to window air conditioning units. There are two good things that window air conditioners have going for them. They are very inexpensive when it comes to cost per BTU of cooling. They also install very quickly and easily. That is where the good part of them ends.
Window air conditioners are security risks. If a thief wants to get into your house, the thin sheet metal box that holds the unit in the window can easily be pulled apart to get in through the window. I have seen many units that are not even screwed fast. If the window air conditioner is just there, balancing in the window frame, it becomes very inviting for a unexpected guest. The window air conditioner is also very inefficient. These units use more power per BTU of cooling than any other type of air conditioner. If you are a light sleeper, than chances are you will not want one of these window shakers. Window air conditioners are one of the loudest forms of air conditioning. The fan for these units is very loud when running. Then add the noise of the compressor and you have enough decibels to keep many people wide awake all night long. If you choose to use a window air conditioner, than you should also look for a place that it can be secured and placed in a room that you will not be sleeping in.
As you can tell by now, I am not a big fan of window air conditioners. They do have a place for some people. However, you do need to be aware of the problems that you may encounter with them. The low initial cost can be offset by the fact that they typically do not last as long as a central air conditioner. Central air conditioning will last much longer, be quieter during operation, be more efficient, be more secure, but the initial cost will be higher. How much depends on each situation. When considering your options for air conditioning installation you need to get prices for everything and then decide what type of unit will work the best for you.
Running the equipment on 72 degrees would cause the compressor and fan to work harder on hot days. This will definitely place more strain on your capacitor. These capacitor problems usually happen on the hottest days. I would suspect the capacitor, not the fan. I'm an HVAC tech, so I would Check both with my multimeter
There is ice forming on the evaporator coils. This is either from a low freon charge or a leak in the seals or windows and doors. Could also be that the drains are not working and water is building up and freezing
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner,
the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power.
If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is
getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be
used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat.
If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the
thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem.
Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor
may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued
operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be
economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for
smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners
for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go
wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a
problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is
calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there
is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil.
This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working,
the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil.
A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air
conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities
here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic
way. There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most
problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and
professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at
repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.
mcdevito75 here, Your A/C units control board is most likely transisterized or computer built, in which case when power went out so did the memory in your A/C control board. Simply shut down your A/C unit, re-start and make adjustments again for your comfort.
There should be a disconnect switch on the house next to the unit. it is a box that you can open and there should be either a circuit breaker or pull-out contacts in there. Or he may have disconnect the 24-volt power going to the contactor inside the unit.
I recommend that if you have animal and you want to have the unit on all day that is fine if you have an ac unit with a thermostat and it is big enough to handle. The unit that is in the window is ok if your home but it could cost alot if there is no thermostat because it will run and run and run. Then if it don't cool the house enough means its not the right size. The unit / compressor could overload and kick on and off and might not work when you get home and the house will be like a firecracker.
Best bet would be to replace it with a unit for the size needed for the apartment. It would be effecient.
if we can help further just let us know.
This is nothing but an either or -or ! First, make the thermostat calls for cool, there are suppose to be 2- noise outside, the fan motor and the compressor (and if a old system,a humming noise which is the contactor coil which picks up the main 240-volts).. hurry up and take a stick or something and turn the fan blades, if it picks up speed and run, then its the capicator. If not then the fan motor is bad.! (BOTTOM LINE)!