Just because the capacitor doesn't have a bulge, doesn't mean it's good. It could still be "leaky". Here is some information on that.
For small caps (like 0.01 uf or less), about all you can really test is for shorts or leakage. (However, on an analog multimeter on the high ohms scale you may see a momentary deflection when you touch the probes to the capacitor or reverse them. A DMM may not provide any indication at all.) Any capacitor that measures a few ohms or less is bad. Most should test infinite even on the highest resistance range. For electrolytics in the uF range or above, you should be able to see the cap charge when you use a high ohms scale with the proper polarity - the resistance will increase until it goes to (nearly) infinity. If the capacitor is shorted, then it will never charge. If it is open, the resistance will be infinite immediately and won't change. If the polarity of the probes is reversed, it will not charge properly either - determine the polarity of your meter and mark it - they are not all the same. Red is usually **negative** with (analog) VOMs but **positive** with most DMMs, for example. Confirm with a marked diode - a low reading across a good diode (VOM on ohms or DMM on diode test) indicates that the positive lead is on the anode (triangle) and negative lead is on the cathode (bar). If the resistance never goes very high, the capacitor is leaky. The best way to really test a capacitor is to substitute a known good one. A VOM or DMM will not test the cap under normal operating conditions or at its full rated voltage. However, it is a quick way of finding major faults. A simple way of determining the capacitance fairly accurately is to build an oscillator using a 555 timer. Substitute the cap in the circuit and then calculate the C value from the frequency. With a few resistor values, this will work over quite a wide range.
Alternatively, using a DC power supply and series resistor, capacitance can be calculated by measuring the rise time to 63% of the power supply voltage from T=RC or C=T/R.
Welcome to fixya Hello I have a solution for this Press Ok, Accept or replay so we may get started Your pre-solution is coming up shortly PLEASE REPLY OR LEAVE COMMENT TO CONFIRM YOU RECEIVED THIS EMAIL
Your solution is coming up shortly.
When troubleshooting these units, there are always several variables to consider. First check to see what last occurred with the unit such as, did the electricity go out due to bad weather. You may see that there are many possibilities but let's focus on what occurred last to the unit. Once we determine what happened last, we may isolate the actual cause of the problem. The actual cause may be associated with interference from devices located nearby, and even a radio turned on and located really close to your unit. This is normally known as electromagnetic interference to electronics and is very common with the error you have provided today. Please continue to look for anything EXTERNAL to the unit before looking at the internal components. I have been working on these a long time so feel free to follow up with me.
When troubleshooting these units, there are always several variables to consider. First check to see what last occurred with the unit such as, did the electricity go out due to bad weather. You may see that there are many possibilities but let's focus on what occurred last to the unit. Once we determine what happened last, we may isolate the actual cause of the problem. The actual cause may be associated with interference from devices located nearby, and even a radio turned on and located really close to your unit. This is normally known as electromagnetic interference to electronics and is very common with the error you have provided today. Please continue to look for anything EXTERNAL to the unit before looking at the internal components. I have been working on these a long time so feel free to follow up with me.
When troubleshooting these units, there are always several variables to consider. First check to see what last occurred with the unit such as, did the electricity go out due to bad weather. You may see that there are many possibilities but let's focus on what occurred last to the unit. Once we determine what happened last, we may isolate the actual cause of the problem. The actual cause may be associated with interference from devices located nearby, and even a radio turned on and located really close to your unit. This is normally known as electromagnetic interference to electronics and is very common with the error you have provided today. Please continue to look for anything EXTERNAL to the unit before looking at the internal components. I have been working on these a long time so feel free to follow up with me.
×
337 views
Usually answered in minutes!
What do you think the problem is?
The last thing I did before I noticed that the tweeter stopped working was remove the sticker on the front of the monitor. The sticker didn't come off easily so I used some goo gone to help get it off. After that I turned it on and noticed a lack of high frequencies coming from it. I turned off the other speaker and sure enough only the woofer was working. I don't think any kind of interference caused it and I already tried a different speaker cable with no difference.
Do you think it could be a capacitor? A few days ago I was using them for a few hours and a relatively loud level, something could've happened then. Is there another way to tell if a capacitor is blown besides the bulging? I did notice that one of the wires going to the tweeter (the negative end I believe) connected to a spot on the circuit board right next to one of the capacitors.
×