Question about Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

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Fan motor I checked the motor and it was clean on the inside and out. I can turn the motor shaft manually. I also checked the fuse and it was fine. All the electronic parts appear in working order; the circuit boards are clean and clear. The fan just won't work on either high or low settings. There doesn't apear to be any undue burning of fan motor components to suggest a short circuit or burn out. Would it be worthwhile to buy a new motor or could there be another issue? Thanks.

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  • Manfred Jul 14, 2008

    ALl the wiring is fine. The boards are fine. The fan wiring is fine both inside and out.

  • Manfred Jul 14, 2008

    The fan blades turn just fine. I even took the motor apart and it's clean. All the wires are connected, the fuse is fine, the compressor works and all the bells and whistles work; it's just that the fan motor will not turn. What could be the problem? Thanks.

  • Manfred Jul 15, 2008

    I checked the fan motor schematic and there is a fuse somewhere within the fan motor assembly, I think? Would a thermal fuse be wrapped within the wires leading to the motor or in the motor assembly itself? I'm thinking of cutting open the insulated wiring to find out. Thanks.

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Chk the wiring inside any short circute or burned one.

Posted on Jul 14, 2008

  • Legin Varghese
    Legin Varghese Jul 14, 2008

    If there is non.. it has to be the motor. if the motor is burnt off there is no option, you have to buy one.

    post me the model no and the make let chk for replcement motor online.

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The unit has power, all controls work. The machine "turns on" when the humidity level exceeds the level set. However, the fan or wheel or whatever it's called does not turn. I took apart the unit and...


I have the exact same problem. I've isolated it to the thermal fuse for the fan motor. This can be confirmed by jumping the black wire to the blue wire coming from the fan motor while the unit is running. Only problem I have is I haven't been able to locate the fuse yet.

Oct 21, 2010 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

3 Answers

Dehumidifier works fine but every now and then the fan is very noisy, as if it is loose or hitting something. Is there a way of checking to see what is happening?


Hello,

With the unit unplugged, open the cover and check the alignment of the fan. If the fan is stuck or rubbing against the fan cowling, adjust the fan motor's mounting hardware so that the fan turns freely.

Good luck.

Jul 31, 2010 | Maytag M7DH65B2A Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Can you please help me find out what makes my fan motor slowly stops running after about 30 minutes. The unit runs fine but after about 30 minutes the motor sounds like it slowing down and wants to trip....


mcdevito75 here, It could be the capacitor if you can replace with same size do so. The Armature or communtator in the motor could be shorting also, do the capacitor the change the motor.

Jun 23, 2010 | Dehumidifiers

2 Answers

Unit is on fan not running


Hi,
There are many reasons for a dehumidifier2_bing.gif to not work or collect water.
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people to figure out what is going wrong with their dehumidifier.

Dehumidifier is running but no water is in bucket
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4662409-dehumidifier_running_but_no_water_in

heatman101

Mar 31, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

It turns on and the filter is clean but it doesn't remove the humidity from our basement. No water accumulates in the pan after hours of running.


If the room temperature is close to 60, the coils may be frozen (completely encased in ice). If this is the case, move it where the water can drain off - about 1 gallon which may NOT run into the drain bucket.
I out mine over the floor drain.
Turn off and it will defrost over night.
Only specially made dehumidifiers work below a room temp of 60 degrees (the temp of a basement in winter).
Does it need to be running? A digital humidity sensor from Radio Shack is cheap and may tell you the humidity is OK - only 50% or less


Is the fan blowing out air? If not
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND


Dec 16, 2009 | Haier HD306 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

After about 5 minutes the unit stops working. No sound or even a fan noise. I just cleaned the filter to see if that helps, but it didn't.


Is the fan running and stopping before the unit completely quits?
If the fan quits the compressor won't run very long.
I would start with the fan motor or capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the blower wheel to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.
r.

Aug 21, 2009 | Dehumidifiers

2 Answers

Fan does not work


Shut the power off to the unit, spin the fan blade to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.

Aug 16, 2009 | LG Goldstar LD65EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Bad fan motor on DH504ELY5?


problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Aug 20, 2008 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Dehumidifier Maytag M7DH45B2A Fan Motor


Hi,
It gets a little tricky from here! If it were mine, and with my experience - I would try to measure for power going to the motor, but that may involve more dismantling. Dangerous voltages are likely to be present so don't attempt this if you are not qualified to do so! If there is power going to it, then logically the motor is defective. If there isn't , then it points to the control circuitry. In the former case a new motor might get you going again - if you can find one; if there is no power going to it then the fault lies elsewhere. If you are very lucky it might just be a dead relay on the pcb. Beyond that point I have learned over the years that some things are just not designed to be fixable :-( The pcb may have been made years ago in a factory on the other side of the world and we consumers are just expected to go out and consume a new one dehumidifier.

Hope this helps a little bit. D

Jul 14, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

1 Answer

LD65EL Dehumidifier rumbles and has poor air flow


Sounds like the bearings have failed in the fan motor, & the rotor is rubbing on the stator. You mentioned end play in the shaft, check for cross play. There should be no perceptable cross play, any found indicates a need for a new motor.

Jun 20, 2007 | LG LD65EL Dehumidifier

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