I apologize for not giving enough info the first time. I should've known better but I think my mind was worn out by then. I contacted Boston Acoustics and they want me to send it to them for repairs which I'm sure will have a ridiculous price tag. They wouldn't give me the part number or any info at all. I live in Point Pleasant, WV but as for parts dealers I'm most likely better off shopping online. As for the specs on the potentiometer all I can give you is what I've figured out... 50k -- the total shaft is 15cm in length, the first 5cm of that is threaded for attachment -- diameter of shaft looks to be 1/8" -- most length of the shaft is flattened a bit down one side, looks like a "C" -- the pot is a bit rectangular with 3 main pins and 2 board attachment pins -- measures about 3/8"W x 3/16"thick x 7/16L -- there is also a "B" near the 50k marking and a number along the side of the pot 9924. Hopefully this info is more helpful!! I guess my internet skills are not so good since I've had no luck finging this thing. Thanks again!!
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Re: more info for you
The pot is a 50k ohm audio taper pot with an integrated switch. The shaft is called a "D" shaft and is used with knobs that have a set screw. The 3 pins are the for the resistance with the center pin being the wiper. The other two pins are for the on & off switch.
It's going to be hard to find the exact replacement without knowing the manufacturer of the pot. It looks like the one you have is soldered to a PC board and the pins have to be in the right spot on the new pot order to match up with the PC board.
What you can do is buy one with solder terminals. Rotate the pot so that the terminals are facing up and just solder wires from the terminals to the PC board. If the shaft is to long, you can cut it down with a hacksaw.
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The only thing I can think of is the forks that move the gears in the transmission could have been bent at some point, or a bearing or a bearing surface as those are only things you did not mention. The other possibility is that there may be a misalignment of the gears causing them to catch, or that a spacer is worn. Japanese transmissions are generally never the source of the problem, but you had better know what you are doing if you ever have to open one up. /they need ti be reassembled using feeler gauges and painstaking care. I have even known of a reused gasket causing a problem but on a much larger bike, I think you may have to take that one to a shop to diagnose, as without looking at it and checking all the plays and adjustments myself, I could not give you a better idea.
hi, My first thought on this is that you may have a linkage issue. your shifter may read that you are in drive, but you may only be in 2nd gear. Check it out. bump it up so it will look like you are putting the car into nutral, but be careful to not go too far and put it in reverse. if that is not the issue, I would suggest that your car has a brain that knows that the transmition has a problem with 3rd gear and simply wont let it shift into 3rd because maybe there is no 3rd. like the band could be broken. post your results if ya dont mind. I am interested to hear more. I hope this helps ya. Tim
The 737 model could run on even lower temperature (80F). Given time, the unit will heat up the water. the trick is to give it time.
That model is made for commercial use, not really for residential. It will not fully drain every cycles. The important thing to keep in mind is to empty the dishwasher (turn it off, pull the stand-pipe out, and drain) every night and left empty. When you want to use the unit, put the plug back in and turn it on, wait 20 to 30 minutes and it should be ready.
You didn't give a location, so I cant offer someone to help. I do know that the magnetic switch, otherwise known as a contactor, chatters because its not getting enough voltage at the control coil. It should have a label listing the coil voltage on it, check the power source and go from there.