Question about Kicker Car Audio & Video
SOURCE: price check
you would need the L7 dual 4 ohm subs they cost $200 each and the zx1000 amp runs $400 each.
However, the zx1000.1 amps will barely push them (L5 1200 watt would be a better choice on that amp) so the total cost shipped with authorized kicker warranty for 1 year would be $1200.00
I do however have 1 new in box single 06S12L7 dual 4 ohm in stock for $150 shipped its under full manufacturer warranty as well. the amps you need to push the rated power for L7 subs is the zx1500.1 and they are $600 each all of these prices are nearly 1/2 of retail that kicker requires its dealers to sell at, however i am a distributor so I can sell at w/e price I want :)
I can get you into a much better sub and amp combo for less but it isn't kicker brand. I went from 4 L7 12's running zx1500.1 to each sub for a total of 6000 watts RMS and hit 151 db and switched to Hifonics subs and amps and hit 157.3 with only 2 12 inch square brutus subs and 1 2000 watt RMS class d brutus amp. Hifonics will even warranty a blown or burned sub but kicker will not because they know they have voice coil heat issues with them. I have been using the same 2 subs and single amp for 9 months now in serious street beat comps and have never had an issue other than breaking car glass, however with the kicker sub amp combo in 7 months i went through 5 subs and 2 amps and never broke a window.
I can get you the brutus amp for $350 shipped and the subs for $260 a pair shipped or $600 for the combo shipped which is 1/2 the cost of the kicker at twice the quality and sound output. Hifonics is the only company to ever win more than 150 sanctioned events in a single season and they hold the record with over 210 wins in a season
let me know what you think on the price and I will do what I can to help out.
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
As stated before, knowing the impedance of your subwoofer would really help the situation. Either way the link I have provided is to your subwoofers manual (Incase you dont have it)
But since you have said it has smoked, if it still works I recommend turning the bass boost down (Bass boost causes alot of heat within the subwoofers voice coil and even within the amp itself and should never be maxed out.)
Here is a link to your manual for the subwoofer.
So as a solution to your issue, keep your bass boost turned down. You should almost never need it if you have tuned your amp correctly (You have a very serious subwoofer there)
Consider yourself lucky if your subwoofer is still working without issues.
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
Your setup sounds great. I had to settle for Blaupunkt in my Mercedes.
It sounds like the culprit is your enclosure. It's possible that by tweaking the settings, you could improve the sound somewhat, but having been used to the sound of a sealed enclosure, maybe not. Sealed enclosures tend to produce tighter, more accurate bass and have a flatter frequency response curve. They are also generally the enclosure of choice when looking for a SQ (sound quality) oriented setup.
Ported enclosures will produce louder bass than sealed enclosures, and maybe that's why some audio guys push them. They also allow the speaker to operate more efficiently, so you need less amp power for a given volume. Higher tuning on a ported box will get louder, but at the expense of sound quality. Lower tuning will still get louder than a sealed box, and the sound quality will be better than a box tuned higher, but still not as good as sealed. That's what I meant about tweaking the settings. You may see some improvement by setting the crossover lower, decreasing bass boost, or by turning the subsonic filter on/off. I'm no audiophile, but personally I've never been able to stand the sound of a ported enclosure, however it was tuned. Sealed just sounds better.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
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