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My installation manual says to use a 3 wire 40A cord. The range is rated for 14.1KW at 125/250volts which converts to 59Amps. What size wire should be used to the breaker pnl? How can a 40A cord carry a 59A load? The main wires on the range appear to be #12 or at best a #10. The model # is JB968SOl5SS. What am I missing here?

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  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: wireing the baseboard heater

I can help you if you still here.

Posted on Nov 06, 2008


  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: No Power ... Display Blank

There may be, but your problem is not any of those. You apparently have a short to ground somewhere that need's to be located and repaired.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: 240v circuit wiring to run my new Dayton Heater (3Vu34A)

Thanks for your quick reply. First of all let me cite the UL position on this issue:

Avoid using an extension cord with your air heater. If you must use an extension cord, it should have a rating 1.25 times the wattage rating of the heater. For example, you should use a cord rated at least 1,875 watts with a 1,500 watt heater.

That being said I strongly recommend that you spend the few extra dollars to install a double pole breaker and the proper size wire and outlet to make this a completely safe project. If you are going directly from a panel to the area of the heater I would use 10-3 with ground and do the job right.

In the long run I can assure you that you will feel real good about doing this job by the Underwriters Laboratory specification

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

muttandjeff
  • 359 Answers

SOURCE: Main breaker tripping

replacing the main is a possibility and i saw someone suggestion to ck load on each leg of power , also a good idea but one thing i have also seen do this is a loose or corroded connection in the meter base or disconnect which causes a process called electrolysis that is a flaking away of the conductor itself in the meter base or disconnect feeding the panel main breaker and causing heat build up internal to breaker and making it trip but if you replace the main that is the time to check all these connection and it would not hurt to apply a little no lock or some other brand of oxidation inhibitor

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Properly installed electric baseboard heater won't work.

I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.

To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.

If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.

Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

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The 4 wire cord has only been around for a couple years for decades only 3 wire cords were used.It would be perfectly safe to use a 3 wire cord. Just be sure that on the center teminal where the white wire is that's their a link between the cord block to the cabinet if not attch a wire from center cord block to the back panel. Like they are when they leave the factory and it may have been removed when 4 wire cord was connected.oldtech2332_7.jpg

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It seems to get confusing where the wires go in the back where the cord connects to on your brand new,or previously owned range that you have brought to a home thats new to you

black wire going on the left,red wire on the right& the white wire goes on the center terminal. Now what exactly do you do with the green wires is what your asking yourself. It goes onto the cabinet after removing that little link that went from the center terminal that was beweeen the cabinet and and the white wire terminal.Yes remove that link and install the green wire where the link was removed just a minute ago oldtech2332_1.jpg

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You can download complete installation instructions from Whirlpool. You can also find the Owner's manual and other documentation at the Whirlpool site.

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1fbda55.jpg
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good thinking to ask'
wish my brother had
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The following link explains how to convert from a 3-prong appliance cord to a 4-prong:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

The main difference is how the ground and neutral are terminated. In a 3-wire configuration, ground and neutral are connected together at the terminal block. In a 4-wire configuration these two wires are independent of each and are NOT to be connected together. The neutral wire will be terminated at the terminal block, while ground is connected to the ground lug on the appliance cabinet.

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