Does not sense when the thread is broken during embroidery. Also does not sense if needle is broken causing damage to item being embroidered. This also does not alow for me to back space to position where thread broke. The only option it gives is for me to start the section from the beginning.

If the display reads "Check and rethread upper thread", follow the steps below to resolve the issue:
1. Upper thread may be broken.
2. Upper thread may be caught on the spool on top of the machine.
3. Upper thread spool may have run out of thread.
4. Replace the needle in the machine with a new needle.
5. Your needle could be bent or burred causing the thread to break.
6. Check that you are using the correct size thread.
- If embroidering, use 40/50 machine embroidery thread on top and 60 weight in bobbin only.
Turn your machine off and rethread the machine from the start.

With the embroidering, some of the bobbin thread is SUPPOSED to show on the top of your embroidery-the machine isn't doing anything incorrectly. You'll need to thread your bobbin with the same thread as you are using with the top. I had the same "problem" when I first got the machine and took it to a wonderful local technician whose helped me with a lot of things who informed me that this is perfectly normal on embroidery machines.

It's okay - it's supposed to do that! The Needle Down button has a different function when you are in Embroidery mode i.e. you have the emb. unit attached.
It moves the emb. arm forward for two reasons: so you can cut top-side jump stitches more easily between colour changes (you touch the button again and the emb. arm returns to under the needle so you can finish the design); and secondly so you can "park" the embroidery unit when you are finished. You can then turn the machine off, remove the emb. unit and replace it in the carry case. If you DON'T do this, the emb. arm is not in the right position to fit into the moulded carry case properly.

The Broken Thread message usually means that it has started the colour, but the thread has been pulled down underneath instead of making nice locked stitches. Hold onto the thread end until the machine has stopped and beeped for you to cut the thread. This usually solves that problem. Sometimes the thread gets pulled out of your hand so just back up the stitches a few and start over, holding the thread more tightly. Don't tug on the thread - just keep a firm grip.

Designer 1s often cut the bobbin thread too short so that it can't make those nice locked stitches when it starts. You need to take off the hoop, open up the bobbin cover and use your stylus, the tip of a pair of scissors, tweezers (whatever is to hand) to pull the bobbin thread out a little. Instead of cutting it on the bobbin thread cutter, just let it hang outside by 1/8" or so. That way you can be sure there is enough bobbin thread available for the stitch to lock. Don't use the scissors button on the machine after every colour change. Sure, it makes for a tidier back of the embroidery with less work for you afterwards, but if it means you are taking the hoop and bobbin cover off after every colour change then it is not worth it in time-saving.
If your machine is doing this - cutting the bobbin thread too short - mention it to your tech. when you machine goes in for its next service. He may be able to tweak the bobbin cutter so it does not cut so close.

1. What do I need to get started at free machine embroidery?
   • A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your zigzag stitches too.
     
   • An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
     
   • An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood, has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring, separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better tension on the fabric.
     
   • Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery, as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water, leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very nice. It's expensive though.
     
   • Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the piece from the fabric.
     
   • Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery thread available.
     
   • Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought? Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a problem with this to date.
     
2. How do I prepare the machine and fabric for free machine embroidery? Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
   
3. How do I lock the thread at the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to unravel? Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.

It sounds like the needle just isn't in your machine all the way. Loosen the screw that holds the needle and push it up and see if it moves upward. Your machine has sensors that let the embroidery unit know where the needle bar is so the hoop won't move while the needle is down. There is a clamp that holds the needle bar tightly in the machine, if you can rotate the bar, the clamp has loosened. If the needle bar is loose at all, don't sew with your machine as you could cause real damage.

thread, threading, hooping all possibilities. Hard to say which without seeing

Hi, and welcome to FixYa. If I understand your problem, the needle goes in and out of your fabric, and the embroidery hoop moves, but the machine does not actually start embroidering your design right away....did I get it right? If have time to answer a few questions, I can give more accurate instructions.

1. How long have you had your machine?
2. How long have you been doing machine embroidery?
3. Do you have a manual for your machine?
4. Look at the back side of your design - do you see lots of bobbin thread, or hardly any?
5. Have you taken lessons for your machine or for embroidery?
6. When your design is finished, can you where the machine skipped stitches?
   

Here a couple of things you can try (if you have already):

• Make sure you use an embroidery needle, not a universal. In most cases, you should use a size 90. Change your needle after each project. A blunt need can cause your machine to skip embroidery stitches anywhere in the design.
  
• Rewind or replace your bobbin. Make sure you use bobbin thread in your bobbin when you embroider - it is thinner and gives you better tension. If pre-wound embroidery bobbins are compatible with your machine, I recommend that you try one and compare the result with designs sewn using the bobbin thread you've been using.
  
• Normally, you should loosen your tension a little bit when you embroider. When you look at the back side of your embroidery, you should see more bobbin thread than embroidery thread.

I owned an embroidery business for several years, and I have six different embroidery machines of my own - so with a little more info from you, I think I can help.

Try changing threads. If you're not using embroidery thread specifically, the "treatments" they use on different threads can really cause problems.

Just a thought. Is it possible that your thread is wrapping around your spool post or snagging on your thread spool?
sewman7

If the thread will not run through the tension mech on 0 then it is probably stuck on a tight setting. It can be a bit complicated but the tension mech can be stripped/cleaned/free'd up. Another possible cause is the path of the thread from the spool to the needle any deviation from the correct path increases the tension at the needle. If you do not know the history of the machine I would suggest a thorough clean and service.