I plugged my charger into a 240 supply using shaver plug. Think this has blown the internal fuse . Does anyone know where I can but the fuse. Looks as if all I need to do is remove old fuse and re solder new one. Can anyone confirm this to be correct. Cheers John
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It is likely an internal fuse has blown also. Most ovens have one on the power supply board. then another in the magnetron supply. Don't mess with it yourself internally unless you know how to safely discharge the HV capacitor, which is lethal even when the oven is unplugged.
If the charger is 100 to 240VAC, it should work. USA use 110 volt so the charger should be OK with 240. The UK charger will probably have a UK 3 pin plug on it. If you use it in the US, you will have to change the plug again or buy an international adaptor which can be adapted to fit most outlets anywhere in the World.
I'm afraid you blew up your shaver. Only if they build in any over voltage protection or a fuse it could be the damage is limited, but I think a engineer should look into the shaver, or perhaps you better buy a new one?
The charger puts out 24VDC@4A. Typically my charger [off a Rascal 600t] will charge at 3.5A. It seems that the industry standard is to multiply the amperage by 135% providing that your using the proper gage wire and the temperature is nominal. 3.5A x 1.35 = 4.73 or 5A. So i think a 5A fuse will do it for you
Depending on what type of plug it is you may be able to change the fuse. If the fuse has blown then you really need to know why before plugging it back in to the mains. The charger may have a broken wire in the lead that plugs in to the laptop. Usually it happens right near the plug where it gets bent and twisted. It could also be the internal fuse inside the charger box.
If you can't get it tested properly then a new one is your best bet. They are quite cheap on Ebay. Just look for the one for your make and model number and check to make sure the voltage on your chargers label is the same, it's output voltage is probably 19 volts. The voltage must be the same, NOT lower or higher. Then have a look at the label for the current which is in Amps, something like 3.15Amps. You can buy one with higher current than the one you have but NOT lower than the label says.
I can't find an online manual for the model of the appliance you are talking about, so I'm unable to figure out the wattage it draws. Nor do I know where you are in the world and the voltage you are running at, so I can't tell you straight off. But I can tell you how to figure it out very easily:
I imagine that know what your main power supply voltage is (either 240 volt or 110 volt). You can look at the appliance and there will be a data sticker with the wattage rating on it somewhere (or it will be in the install/Owner manual).
Now you have these 2 bits of information we can do a simple sum:
Watts divided by Volts = Amps
Therefore example calculations look like this: If you have a 500 watt appliance on a 240 volt system 500/240 = 2.083 so use a 3 amp fuse An appliance with a 750 watt motor on 240 volts: 750/240 = 3.12 so use a 5 amp fuse A 2KW (2000 watt) appliance like a hot air blower on a 240 volt system: 2000/240 = 8.33 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse A 500 watt motor on a 110 volt supply 500/110 = 4.5 so use a 5 amp fuse A 1KW (1000 Watt) appliance at 110 volts: 1000/110 = 9.09 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse
etc etc etc.....
If the sum comes out below 13 amps, you can use a 13 amp plug. If it doesn't you need to hardwire it into a proper cooker supply.
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