Plef398ccc burners not turning on and rechecked wiring
Long story short. First problem the front right burner stayed on. I replaced the relay board one wire at a time. Then the digital screens for the boards did not turn on. I lifted range and that is where I found the mouse electrocuted at the hot wire for the front left burner. Stoves beeps and F5 came on all the screens. Research says that clock board needs to changed. So I changed that and still the same thing. I am hoping that it is not all the burner controls that is failed. What do you think?
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Re: plef398ccc burners not turning on and rechecked...
my assistance has already been rejected, so i don't know if you will get this post. before buying any more parts, check to make sure you are getting a full 220v at the outlet and test each leg (110v) against the neutral and ground wires to make sure they are good too. when you get a short, like the dead mouse scenario, the breaker might trip on one side of the dual breaker, giving you a machine that seems to have power but does not function properly.
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On this model (with the glass touch controls, right?), it is usually caused by a bad, sticking relay on the relay board, located on the back side of the oven, down near the bottom. Some of these models had a safety recall... You might want to check to see if yours is one of the affected models. (The model number you gave is not complete; find the complete model # & serial # on the range itself, usually on the range frame, visible when you open the drawer or open the door.
I had the same problem with my LG front left burnr.
Look at the back of your range there should be schemetic for your power control board. look for defective burner wire going into relay. There should be 5 relays in rows. Relay is the problem. I had the same problem with my front left burner stuck on high. After replacing relay everything works fine.
it depends on the model and manufacturer of your stove .. some have solid state relays that could be shorted (usually computer controlled stove) or a conventional relay (for cycling) that may have a stuck contact .. if its a conventiional stove with spiral cooking surface (not smoothtop) .. then you can make sure the burner is not hot and the stove is unplugged .. then you can simply lift and pull the burner out of its socket .. that will get you working temporarily on the other burners until ;you can fix the problem .. that burner could have an internal short to ground .. easy to check with an ohm meter or by substitution of one of the other burners .. if another burner does the same thing then suspect the relay or control switch ... if the substitute burner works properly then replace the defective one ..
If the burner is scorched or pitted, go ahead and replace it. New burners can cost anywhere from $10 to $40. Otherwise, check the burner's electrical connections to make sure there is solid contact. Jiggle the burner in its socket. If it is loose, then remove the burner—most just pull out of the electrical socket, although some are mounted with a screw. (Always unplug the range before removing a burner.) Slightly spread the two terminals apart for a tighter connection. If it still doesn't work, then replace the faulty burner with a functioning burner of the same size. If that burner works, then replace the bad burner with a new one. If it doesn't, then inspect the electrical socket for damage. If it's charred, replace the socket. To do so, remove the screws that secure the socket to the range and then unscrew the range wires. Attach the wire connections of the new socket to the range wires and reassemble the burner.
Look at the back of your range there should be schemetic for your power control board. look for defective burner wire going into relay. There should be 5 relays in rows. Realy is the problem. I had the same problem with my front left burner stuck on high. After replacing everything works okay.