This is a 1992 model 253.9203282. It stopped running. I took the thermostat case off and shorted the contacts, it still did not run. I got underneath and measured the run capacitor with a capacitance meter and it checked out correctly. I examined the overload and it looked like it was good. I measured 20 vac at the PTC Starter. I am tempted to buy a replacement PTC Starter Relay, but for $58 that's taking a big chance. Is there a test I can do to bypass the relay to see if that is the problem?
Thanks for the answer and the question. I have changed the defroster clock and the repair shop who sold it told me that is 6 1/2 hours between defrost. the case is that this time is not the correct as it looks because between turning on the DEFROST cycle and then start up again the time in between is not sufficient that the freezer makes the right defrost. and the temperature stays around 32 F. now if I make a bridge between socket no 1 and 2 the resistor will start and in 20 minutes the water will show up under the freezer and then I connect the timer again and the tep. will go down to 20 F.
I really have no Idea what is wrong any help. I am grateful and happy.
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most of these freezers have an automatic defrost cycle. after so many hours of chilling it will stop and run a de-icing cycle. this is accomplished by one or two heating elements. if one of the elements is burned out it will not run the defrost cycle. and will ice up quickly. depending on the model the heaters will usually cost about 15 to 20 dollars and they are easy to replace. look up the model of your freezer and download the pdf files they will usually have a pictorial diagram showing the location a defrost timer usually does nt fail on them unless it is physically damaged.
It could be that it was meant to have a neutral earth, ie the neutral is connected to earth at the substation and house inlet and somehow the live and neutral has become reversed at the plug.
You have seen the case becomes live, this may be happening due to leakage current or a short as you say.
Either way the earth was there for a reason, to stop the case from becoming dangerous and you have removed that protection.
Neither the heater element or motor windings should have continuity to the case, I'd disconnect and check these out individually to isolate the problem and repair it, then put the earth connection back before using the freezer.
please check the thermostat setting and make sure this thermostat device is working if it,s good and working then please check the compressor relay device and all electrical connections.
and contact to your service technician , for furthermaintenance.
A freezer is great for storing additional food that may not fit in your fridge freezer. If your freezer stops working, it's important to be able to troubleshoot it quickly so that food waste is kept to a minimum. Keep the following tips in mind if your freezer stops working.
Inspect the Relay The relay is a component that helps power the compressor. It is housed in a plastic box with the motor terminals and the overload protector and is connected to the Compressor; the relay is the largest component in the box. Closely inspect the relay and make sure it is not burned out. The relay can also be tested using a multimeter. If you see any signs that the relay has shorted out, you'll will need to replace it. If the relay makes a rattling sound when shaken, this is also a sign that it has shorted out. Examine the Compressor The compressor is essential to the performance of your chest freezer. It is the motor that powers the entire cooling system and if your freezer has ceased to work, you need to check it. This unit is located at the back of the freezer and sits in plastic housing; it can be identified by its football shape. You can tell that the compressor is broken if your relay is fine or if you hear a light hum followed by a clicking sound and silence. If your freezer is relatively new, it might still be under warranty and you could get a replacement compressor for free. If not, your compressor will need to be replaced by a professional. Investigate the Thermostat The fact that your chest freezer is not working could be down to the thermostat. This is the unit that regulates the temperature inside the freezer. To test your thermostat, remove the access panel on the side of the freezer. Next, use a screwdriver to remove the actual thermostat from the inside wall but do not disconnect the tube that runs from the unit into the freezer. Set the range scale on Rx1 on your multimeter to test for continuity. If your multi-tester reads continuity, your freezer problem lies in another spot. If your multi-tester does not read continuity, it means your thermostat is not working and you will need to replace it. Remove the tube from the old thermostat and attach it to the new one. Screw the new unit into place on the freezer wall and make sure the tube is not coiled or kinked as this will prevent the new thermostat from working properly.
The thermostat may have shorted out so that it is no longer making contact to put power to the compressor. After drying out the components try bypassing the thermostat and see if it will start or make any sound whatsoever. If it does start and run with the thermostat bypassed replace the thermostat. 4-6 inches of water can also get to the relay on the compressor. Replacing the relay and over load assembly also be a good idea.
compressor is running overloaded possible problems bad relay/overload /capacitor dirty or clogged condensers if the unit uses a condenser fan suspect a bad fan. and defective thermostats are notorious for short cycling. id check the coils first and if dirty clean up maybe that can be the major problem.