Wire speed does not match the digital read out

cant

if single speed fan you have 3 wires and ground
if 3 speed fan you have 5 wires
if 1 speed 2 wires are are the power and the other one is a capacitor wire at 1.3uF 1.5uF 330v you need to have the wiring chart for the motor or you could work it out with a ohm meter or seek the help of a sparky

The error may be caused by ...
- the SD card is corrupted
- the camera doesn't support the SD card's size or format
- the SD card contacts (to the camera) is faulty
- the SD card has (content) specifications (e.g. read/write speed) that is not compatible with those that the camera support ... e.g. camera expects a Class 6 or higher, and your card is Class 2

Check the camera manual - specifications, to see if it matches and support the SD card (format, size, storage capacity, etc.)
Check the SD card specification to see if it matches.

I can offer resources:

1) Test switch that was removed, and test for hot connection to narrow down options.

What speed was fan stuck in when switch was removed? Let's say medium speed.
Which connection at fan is hot? Use voltage tester to find hot connection at fan, and match that up with wire-color on switch that was removed.
One and only one wire on 3-speed fan switch connects to hot. And the hot wire is the only wire that connects to each other wire as switch cycles through pull-chain sequence. All pull chain switches follow same sequence: off, low, medium, high.
Let's say old switch was stuck in medium, and you know which color wire connects to hot.
Test switch with continuity tester to see which wire(s) have continuity with hot wire: some switches, it will be 2 wires, and other switches it will be 1 wire. Match where wire(s) were connected, and map that to tests on new switch.

2) Open following link for illustrations and some other links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

Open following link for illustration and instructions:
As a general rule, the new 3-speed switch has to have same number of wires (either 3 or 4).
The new switch and old switch have to match electrically, which means the old and new switches have to be tested with a continuity tester or multimeter (both testers available at local hardware).
Testing is necessary because wire colors do not always match and because each pull chain can activate different wire or combination of wires.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

Add a comment for more assistance as you work on the project.

Take a moment and vote on answer:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on 3-speed switch or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Same answer applies as one sent earlier.
Take some time and read answer, or re-post question and pay for interactive answer with fixya expert who can walk you through the steps for a price.

1) You have P1353 timer.
This is a complicated timer for beginner because timer can be set up many different ways for multiple operations.

Open following link for manual: The manual is a large file and may be impossible to download on dial-up.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#P1353
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Intermatic-P1353-manual.pdf
Smaller manual is available but some pages are turned sideways which is not so handy.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/P1353ME-instructions.pdf

P1353 instructions start page 28 of larger manual.
Manual is longer than space allowed for free answer, so we can work in stages.
At any time, you add a comment and I will respond -and/or send a photo of your wiring, etc
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6568559-post_photograph_fixya_questions_answers

1) You want Mode 2 so low and high speeds are not turned ON at same time.
2) Wiring requirement: High speed is connected to terminal 3, low speed connected to terminal 2 as shown in fig 4-4 > this is where you can send a photo or add a comment and clarify how your timer is wired.

3) Page 30 goes through steps for setting the mode. Remember you want Mode 2.
4) Page 31 shows how to set current time of day.

5) Page 31-2 shows steps for programming each circuit.
Assuming that your wiring matches fig 4-4 mentioned above:
High speed is circuit 1
Low speed is circuit 2

Once you digest this information, it will narrow down the questions and I can answer those one at a time with more detail if needed.
Or you can re-post a question and I will probably catch it.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

your digital display LED LCD unit has gone bad.

Look at the old motor and see what the rated rpm was. Next look at the new motor and see if it gives a speed for each wire. If it doesn't give the speed for each wire then look at the rated motor speed. That will be the Hi speed. Hook up the wire that matches the speed of the old motor and cap the other.

Two items to check.

Neutral safety switch circuit is still on your car.

You need to locate the color code of the wiring to the neutral safety switch and set the proper pins connection.

======

Vehicle speed sender (VSS) rotation count may be different,

Do a side by side match and check the part #.

Swap them and see do you get the correct speed reading.