Did not say whay year but hd went to a vacumn activated petcock to shut the fuel off for you when you kill the engine. the little pinhole is the pressure equalizer for the diaphram so if it leaks, the diaphram has a hole in it. not sure but hd might make a rebuild kit, if not, i would replace it with an aftermarket without the diaphram shut off. you just have to remember to manually shut the fuel. you will also have to plug the vacumn line. why i suggest this is if you are wot too long the loss of vacumn signal will shut the fuel off and cause a lean condition which will increase combustion temps.
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sat up too long pull the carb bowl remove the jets clean and reinstall them pull your petcock off clean the screen put in good gas,and you should be set when you turn the gas on if the bowl vent leaks gas tap the carb bowl the float needle will find its seat and run
your float is sticking or saturated or maybe just a little **** stuck between the needle and seat if it is the latter it might clear with some 4000 rpm reving if that clears it you need to find where its comming from bad petcock or even cheap fuel line if reving doesnt clear it (no offense)take it to a shop,inside a carb is no place for a carpenter
you need to take your carb off give it as good cleaning. also check your intake gaskets where the manifold joins the jugs and the black rubber one where the carb joins the manifold. You def have air/fuel problem going on. also check your vscume hose to the carb but im thinking that is not it.
excessive oil comming from breathers combined with the pipes being black could be blowby depending how long ago the conversion was done if it was just done someone didnt check ring clearance or put a ring in upside down if it wasnt just done proabley time to start saving for a top end job till then nothing you can do but ride it
It's quite a process to remove a starter on a sportster. I changed one for my friend on his 03 sportster. You have to take alot of stuff off to get to the bolts that hold it on. Can I suggest getting a service manual for the bike. Trust me it's worth its weight in gold. I've done alot of work on my sportster and my friends sportster and would never attempt anything without the book. As far as the starter, From what I remember, I had to remove the exhaust pipes then the primary cover, and I'm sure there were more parts, but you need to know what gaskets you will need to replace. Good Luck. And go get the book. I got mine at Barnes and Noble. and my friend got his at the Harley dealer. Have fun.
if you have power at the harness pin but not the light then your problem could be a cut wire grounding to frame between connector and light. you did not say what kind of light you have. a regular filament light check the socket as they sometimes go bad due to vibration, if it is a led light, look for a bad componet on the circuit board like a open resistor or such. if you are handy with a soldering iron, you can repair it pretty cheaply.
man its been awhile since i saw one of those. i wish hd still made rebuildable front ends instead of throw away *** units. run your finger to the bottom of bushing to see if there is a lip on the bottom, if so, go to harbor freight and buy a blind bearing removal set if it will go to the size you need. if not, they also sell a slide hammer tool with claws that will work if it will go into the hole. if all else fails, take a hack saw blade and carefully cut the bushing almost through on opposing sides, try not to scar tube. you can then use a small screw driver and work the bushing out at one of the slits, once the tension is gone, it will pick out. other than that, find an old hd shop. as an after thought, there are expanding pipe ez outs which should clamp to the bushing allowing you to pull it out but do not over expand so damage to the tube will not occur.
Have not worked on an HD but my thoughts and additional guesses would be: 1. fuel contamination (water at bottom of tank); 2. primary pump (in my case it was inside the fuel tank & might not be present in your bike); 3. fuel lines & clamps to & from primary pump or to the carbs; 4. in line filters; 5. vacuum controlled fuel valve (oppose to the usual manual petcock) 6. if it were the MAP sensor, bike wouldn't even run a block away + idling would be rough; 7. by chance are you using a Power Commander?
Also your post "bike will start and run fine for a few blocks then die" indicates that indeed fuel got into the carbs before but not when running meaning the bike used what was inside the bowl and was not replenished. Alternately, the fuel flow to the carbs might not be sufficient and there is a leak or a blockage somewhere.
As said might not work for your bike but has come across some of the above on numerous occasions.