Hotpoint tdc60 power ok, but no heating at all amp test heating coils ok, has it got a fuse built in.or a reset.

Either the dryer has a short or the breaker is bad.
Does it trip when it starts, when plugged in, when turned on? in the heat cycle?
Breakers should be replaced about every 20 years and a 30amp cost about $10. I would try that first if yours is from the 80s. Look at the brand you have and buy the same or compatable to your fuse box. They clip in differently.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnO90_Te_jU

Do a continuity test on the heater coil. No continuity, it's broke replace it. If it over heated and the coil is ok then the thermal protection fuse blew. Both the fuse and the thermister need to be replaced & check the vent where it exits to the outside. It may be clogged and the cause of the problem in the first place. Very common cause. If not addressed it will break down again. See youtube for videos on how to test the thermal fuse & thermister. Just search "dryer repair". Review a few. Some are better than others.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Dryer-Repair-Help

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

I've had this issue with my thermal fuse blowing. If the water gets too hot, this will trip. If you have a meter and know how to handle yourself around electricity (power off and verified), then you can pull the liner out to get to the electronics. (I don't know the exact method for the Hotpoint). Follow the power lines and you'll find the fuse. Mine has two wires connected to tabs on a little card. If the fuse shows open on the meter, then you can get another for just a few bucks off your favorite auction site, or local appliance parts store (a few bucks more, but immediate delivery). If you have the hot water heater temp high, then you might want to make sure you don't use the "heat water" function, otherwise the fuse will blow again.

Please let us know if this helps, it will benefit others in your situation.

Hi S R KEMP..

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the heating element/thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Remove the wiring from the element and use a multimeter to test for continueity, no continueity means there is a break in it and will need replacing.

You reset it by disconnecting the power to the dryer.

Bonjour..Your system check (hot cold) is correct. Generally all new refrig/freezers cool only the freezer & bleed cold air off to cool the refrigerator. Most diverter/airflow dampers I have seen are mechanically operated for simplicity & to keep costs down. I would unload freezer and pull the panel off where you see the fan mounted. Go slow, don't drop any screws.You may not get them back. Look at the drain pan under the evap. coil. If it has ice that is built up in layers. Suspect the defrost termination thermostat. If the evap coil is clogged with heavy frost, suspect 1 the defrost timer and 2 the defrost heaters mounted on the evap. coil. Let me know how you make out.

Parts http://www.repairclinic.com/Refrigerator-Parts?s=t-Hotpoint+FFA70-%3d%3da4&z=50

Hello, Sorry. Your Hotpoint dryer needs a new heating element. See if there a panel that can be removed on the back of this cloths dryer, Some of these GE/Hotpoint will have their heating cartiage in the top of the drying machine, in back low down in the bottom, or the front cover will need to be remove. Before trying to tackle this simple job.....Please unplug tiyr dryer. SAFETY!
GB...stewbison

Check on the back of the drum for a thermal fuse or relay. Common fault on tubledryers is no power to heating coils becuse of blown fuse or most likely the relay to heating coils is dirty. have to be cleaned about every 2/3 years depending on use.