Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines

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I am gettin a dL F code. I think the front door latch is broken. I can see the broken plastic latch on part number 481970200691. Do I order the entire assembly or take it apart and replace the broken plastic. Thank You for your time. rnicoloff@hotmail.com

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6 Suggested Answers

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Door Latch has broken plastic tab

The door latch assembly comes as one piece. It would actually be much simpler to purchase the new latch and replace the whole assembly instead of trying to put pieces and parts back inside a latch that may or may not work after all your hard effort. If you decide to replace the latch, follow these steps: 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Remove the lower kick plate panel if you like (this can help you reach the latch from a couple of different angles). 3. Open door and feel around the rubber door boot for a wire hoop. At the bottom of the door open is a tension spring. Pull the spring apart and remove the wire hoop from the groove. 4. Gently lift the rubber boot from the groove around the door opening and push inside the machine so you can access the inside of the casing. 5. The door latch assembly is located inside the case on the right-hand side. There should be a couple of wire connectors going to it (remember how they come off). Be careful with the wires, they are small and can break. 6. Unplug the wire connectors and remove the three screws holding the latch in place from the outside of the casing. 7. There should also be a plastic retainer holding the latch in place. Remove latch from retainer. 8. Install new door latch by placing it in the plastic retainer, first. 9. Plug wires connectors in. 10. Re-install the three door latch screws. 11. Re-install rubber door boot around the door opening. Make sure it is properly seated in the groove. 12. Reinsert wire hoop. starting at the top of the door opening, carefully push the wire hoop into the groove and work your way all the way around the bottom where the tension spring would be. (A second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in replace would be handy at this point). 13. Pull tension spring apart and snap into groove. Done. Hopefully this will take care of your problems. Of course, you may not like the idea of having to purchase a whole new door latch assembly, or the effort required to remove and replace. But, it sure beats trying to rebuild the old one. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 11, 2007

  • 178 Answers

SOURCE: ge timer on washer is broken

If it no longer clicks, the timer assembly will need to be replaced. If just the knob broke off, the timer should be good.

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3t

You are correct, the "Fdl" error code is a door lock error and is generally caused by a failed door latch assembly. This error can also be attributed to a failed CCU (which there is a lock solenoid) and/or interconnecting wiring. Now...barring that you did not purchase a bad door latch, you will need to inspect the wiring harness to ensure you don't have any broken wires or loose connections. If the harness checks good, the only other solution I have is to replace the CCU. Many of the early models had some problems with frequent failures. Sears (actually Whirlpool) has since come out with some more reliable computers. You can order a replacement at searspartsdirect.com and have it shipped directly to you. This is normally not a part that an appliance dealership would carry in their inventory and would have to be ordered anyway. So...why not cut out the middle man? Just type in your model number and look under the "Control Panel" heading for item number 15 (part #285924). The prices on these have come way down. They used to cost about $220. I know this probably isn't what you want to hear, but the good news is, the price is much less than it used to be. If you need advice on how to replace the CCU, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off.
3. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub.
4. With the new CCU in hand, carefully disconnect each connector from the old CCU and swap them one at a time with the new CCU. (This is the easiest method I know of to do this. This will avoid the possibility of getting any connectors crossed).
5. Once you have all the connectors moved to the new CCU, use a screwdriver to lift up on the release tabs that hold the old CCU to the mounting bracket and remove.
6. Now carefully insert the new CCU with all the connectors in place on the mounting bracket and snap into place.

Another method is to use a digital camera to take photos, or use the tech sheet that is located inside the washer (behind the lower panel under the door). The tech sheet should have an illustration showing all the connector locations. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: GE front load washer WSXH208v1ww door latch

Unfortunately, the "door latch assembly" is what you would need. It comes with a new concrete front tub counter weight which is redesigned to not be able to contact the door latch switch on out of balance spins. It is also a lot of work to replace. (you can not get just the little plastic part) Please don't rate this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my score, and I know you don't want to shoot the messenger.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Where can I find a door latch for the Kenmore HE 3t

"Fdl" is a door latch error code. This is an indication of either a defective door latch, door catch, defective Central Control Unit (CCU), or an interconnecting cable problem between the two. The following link explains how to troubleshoot the problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4490349-fdl_error_code


I have included parts resources, and the steps required to replace any defective parts. Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.


Read through the information provided and post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER if you have questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 110.45981400 DL code

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.







1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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Ge front loading washer door won't unlock


Some machines do this when the power is cut, there should be what looks like a screw heat on the front of the handle which will allow you to unlock the door and open it. If there is still water inside you will need to empty the machine first. There is usually a hatch at the bottom of the unit, open this hatch and you will find a cap to unscrew, unscrewing this cap will empty the contents of the machine onto your floor so be prepared!!!!!

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Error code dl f, have tried turing power off, checking the door, and going to drain spin cycle--no spin---hit option button 4 times--- this only makes a clicking sound and then gives error code dl f


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error “dlf” or "F dl"means a door latch failure. This means that you’ll need to replace the door latch assembly however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so that it resets itself. In the meantime when it’s unplugged just inspect the door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved else post a comment for further assistance.



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1 Answer

Where can I find a door latch for the Kenmore HE 3t


"Fdl" is a door latch error code. This is an indication of either a defective door latch, door catch, defective Central Control Unit (CCU), or an interconnecting cable problem between the two. The following link explains how to troubleshoot the problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4490349-fdl_error_code


I have included parts resources, and the steps required to replace any defective parts. Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.


Read through the information provided and post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER if you have questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

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1 Answer

Duet Sport HT WFW8400TE Washer: hello i have a whirlpool duet we originally had an...


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Below I give you some solutions picked from this site. There are five down para-wise You may find some very useful:

I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock (inside) with WD40......so far works OK

I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on the door latch and it's working great. for now

Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts. For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU (Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190 plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again. Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told them it was not that part but the CCU.

DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you in the right direction.

I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computer didn't like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off. Then to make room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!

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1 Answer

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Plug off the mains, remove bottom panel. Reach upwards to lock area to find a chord, pull downwards gently, door opens. Check the lock for loose wire, check small push button in lock area to make sure it is not broken, check latch on door.

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F DL
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1 Answer

F11 ON WHIRLPOOL FRONT LOAD WASHER GHW9150PW1


Below I give you some solutions picked from this site. There are five down para-wise You may find some very useful:

I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock (inside) with WD40......so far works OK

I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on the door latch and it's working great. for now

Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts. For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU (Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190 plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again. Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told them it was not that part but the CCU.

DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you in the right direction.

I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computer didn't like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off. Then to make room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!

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1 Answer

Washer whirlpool duet...dlf and f11


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Below I give you some solutions picked from this site. There are five down para-wise You may find some very useful:

I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock (inside) with WD40......so far works OK

I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on the door latch and it's working great. for now

Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts. For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU (Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190 plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again. Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told them it was not that part but the CCU.

DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you in the right direction.

I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computer didn't like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off, 2 or 3 screws behind, slide away from you an inch or so & lift up. Then to make room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!

Apr 14, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Error code f and dl won't drain or spin


"Fdl" is a Door Lock error. This is usually an indication of a failed door latch mechanism. To access and/or replace the door latch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587965-door_latch_replacement_fdl_error

A replacement latch can be located at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number in the "Search" window. You can locate it under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading as item number 7 (part #8181700). This is an easy repair job if you wish to accomplish on your own and avoid the added cost of labor.

If you do not wish to order the part online, use the part number provided and go to your nearest applaince parts retailer. I hope this helps you. Please post back if you need further assistance.

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4 Answers

KENMORE ELITE WASHER error (DL) then (F)


The "Fdl" error code indicates a problem with the door latch assembly. The clicking sound you hear is the door latch attempting to latch. If it fails to latch, the wash cycle will not start and the error code and audible beep will occur. There should be a tech sheet inside the washer. It's usually located behind the bottom panel under the door, or along the inside of the casing on either the left or right hand side. The tech sheet will have a list of error codes, procedures on how to perform diagnostics, and troubleshooting hints. It's strongly recommended that you leave the tech sheet inside the washer, so you don't lose it.

Repairclinic.com carries the door latch for about $50 and is listed as item number 1094190.

Searspartsdirect carries it for slightly less for about $43 and lists it under the "Door and Latch Parts" as item number 7 (part #8181700).

If you go to my profile and click on "Tips and Tricks" I have a posting there on how to change the door latch on a front loader. It's a very simple repair that any Do-It-Yourselfer can accomplish.

If you can't find the instructions you need, or need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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