I'm having difficulty with my Maytag "Wide-By-Side" refrigerator / freezer, mod. # MZD2766GEQ. I just recently fixed the ice maker, which turned out to be a water level problem in the trays; HOWEVER, at present, It seems as though the entire unit is not functioning. Currently, the interior temp. of the frig. is 58.3 degrees and the freezer is above 35 degrees. The interior light comes on and the cooling fan at the bottom rear of the unit is functioning. I cleaned the cooling coil / fins when I repaired the ice maker, so they aren't overly dusty. The refrigerant ( an "Embraco", mod. # EGY 100HLP) tank, located at the left rear at floor level, is warm to the touch, but not overly. I've had problems with this unit putting out so much heat that the linoleum floor, upon which it sits, is scorched / discolored. I made a claim with the manufacturer, but gave up due to all the hassle. The drip tray is currently dry, however, water is leaking out the front --- I'm assuming from the freezer. The ice tray seems to be functioning and when I open the freezer door I can hear a motor running. The ice cubes (crescents) in the bin look shiny, as compared to their normal opaque appearance. The "dual Cool" temperature selector at the top of the interior of the frig. is set at medium for the freezer and "full cool" for the frig. That's about all that I can think of, if you require more info, please let me know

Kelly,

Thank you for your detailed response to my inquiry. Due to some sort of glitch in the system I only just received your information this AM (1/12/11). I had been set up for a chat on the 10th, but after an hour plus of waiting, I had other matters to attend to, so I opted to handle the situation via e-mail. Unfortunately, I did not receive your e-mail response and spent the majority of yesterday dealing with customer support. I hate to lose a day, but am pleased to finally get in touch with you.

I guess that the positive side of this whole scenario, Kelly, is the fact that it gave me some time to gather a bit more information. Yesterday (the 11th), I turned the freezer to max. cold and placed the indoor component of my indoor/outdoor RF thermometer on the bottom shelf of my freezer and it indicated a temp. of just over 23 degrees. This AM, I placed the same unit into the ice-maker and found the temp. to be 26.8 degrees. Additionally, I noted yesterday that the ice-maker was indeed functioning, as there were frozen cubes in the ice-maker itself and found, after placing a large spoon in the ice bin, that the unit was discharging
--- the spoon was covered by several cubes. Unfortunately, the ice is still shiny, so I can only surmise that the temp. is still higher than it should be.

After reading your comments regarding this issue, I'm compelled to believe that the unit is stuck on defrost; however, I will shortly access the link that you provided (thanks) and, providing that I am able to understand what I suspect will be schematics, I will go through your whole check list --- thankfully, I have an abundance of jumpers and a multi-meter that is capable of all functions.

Thanks again for your response Kelly, I'm praying that it will turn out to be something simple, but am prepared for the worse. I hope that the "lost day" doesn't become an issue, for I am expecting company this weekend and a malfunctioning refrigerator will definitely put a damper on things. After three surgeries, my back is pretty lame as well, so speed is not on the list of my assets. I'll let you know how things work out and, if you have any further input, feel free to contact me via e-mail at , or, if you have unlimited long distance, via phone at (209) 293-4475.

Thanks again, Lance

P.S. I just pulled the thermometer out from the bottom shelf of the freezer and, after approx. a half hour of residence time, it indicated 25.6 degrees. That's not really what I wanted to see, but the data dovetails with the fact that a package of American cheese, that lay there-in, is getting a bit soft to the touch. A quick shower and I'm on it. Kelly, Thank you for your detailed response to my inquiry. Due to some sort of glitch in the system I only just received your information this AM (1/12/11). I had been set up for a chat on the 10th, but after an hour plus of waiting, I had other matters to attend to, so I opted to handle the situation via e-mail. Unfortunately, I did not receive your e-mail response and spent the majority of yesterday dealing with customer support. I hate to lose a day, but am pleased to finally get in touch with you. I guess that the positive side of this whole scenario, Kelly, is the fact that it gave me some time to gather a bit more information. Yesterday (the 11th), I turned the freezer to max. cold and placed the indoor component of my indoor/outdoor RF thermometer on the bottom shelf of my freezer and it indicated a temp. of just over 23 degrees. This AM, I placed the same unit into the ice-maker and found the temp. to be 26.8 degrees. Additionally, I noted yesterday that the ice-maker was indeed functioning, as there were frozen cubes in the ice-maker itself and found, after placing a large spoon in the ice bin, that the unit was discharging --- the spoon was covered by several cubes. Unfortunately, the ice is still shiny, so I can only surmise that the temp. is still higher than it should be. After reading your comments regarding this issue, I'm compelled to believe that the unit is stuck on defrost; however, I will shortly access the link that you provided (thanks) and, providing that I am able to understand what I suspect will be schematics, I will go through your whole check list --- thankfully, I have an abundance of jumpers and a multi-meter that is capable of all functions. Thanks again for your response Kelly, I'm praying that it will turn out to be something simple, but am prepared for the worse. I hope that the "lost day" doesn't become an issue, for I am expecting company this weekend and a malfunctioning refrigerator will definitely put a damper on things. After three surgeries, my back is pretty lame as well, so speed is not on the list of my assets. I'll let you know how things work out and, if you have any further input, feel free to contact me via e-mail at <[email protected]>, or, if you have unlimited long distance, via phone at (209) 293-4475. Thanks again, Lance P.S. I just pulled the thermometer out from the bottom shelf of the freezer and, after approx. a half hour of residence time, it indicated 25.6 degrees. That's not really what I wanted to see, but the data dovetails with the fact that a package of American cheese, that lay there-in, is getting a bit soft to the touch. A quick shower and I'm on it.

Okay Kelly,

Boy, talk about the Cinderella syndrome. If all of the components were just a bit higher or a little lower, I'd be working comfortably. As luck would have it, that is not the case, so it has taken me a while longer to access the components, however, I've made a bit of progress.

I've gone down your check list and here is what I have found so far:

1) I jumped L1 and Test and no activity was noted (no increase in noise from the freezer fan or cessation of same). I may be incorrect, but I believe that the unit has been stuck on defrost. When I disconnected the PC board, for step two, all activity in the freezer (fan noise, etc.) stopped.


2) I have continuity in the defrost heater element (Yellow wire to White/Black)


3) I noted continuity when I checked the Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat (Red to Black/White).

4) The problem seems to be the thermostat, as when I jumped the Blue wire from the temp. control to the Red wire that plugs into the PC board, I, again, noted continuity.

Now for what may prove to be the bad news, for me anyway (I'll have to rely on your expertise to determine whether I added a rather large fly to the ointment or not). When I went to access the Blue wire from the temp. control, I, inadvertently, allowed the alligator clip to short out on the metal frame to which the temp. control is mounted. The clip is sheathed in rubber, but, unfortunately, there was just enough metal exposed to complete the ground. This happened BEFORE I was able to check for continuity between the Blue and the Red wire. As I noted earlier, once I got the rubber sheath squared away, I was able to complete the test with the above described results --- sans a short. I don't know if the short damaged the temp. control unit or not, I'll have to leave that up to you. All "looks" good on the PC board (no fried resistors, caps, or transistors). Is there a way to check the temp. control to see if I have damaged it?

I'll be anxiously awaiting your input,

Regards, Lance Okay Kelly, Boy, talk about the Cinderella syndrome. If all of the components were just a bit higher or a little lower, I'd be working comfortably. As luck would have it, that is not the case, so it has taken me a while longer to access the components, however, I've made a bit of progress. I've gone down your check list and here is what I have found so far: 1) I jumped L1 and Test and no activity was noted (no increase in noise from the freezer fan or cessation of same). I may be incorrect, but I believe that the unit has been stuck on defrost. When I disconnected the PC board, for step two, all activity in the freezer (fan noise, etc.) stopped. 2) I have continuity in the defrost heater element (Yellow wire to White/Black) 3) I noted continuity when I checked the Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat (Red to Black/White). 4) The problem seems to be the thermostat, as when I jumped the Blue wire from the temp. control to the Red wire that plugs into the PC board, I, again, noted continuity. Now for what may prove to be the bad news, for me anyway (I'll have to rely on your expertise to determine whether I added a rather large fly to the ointment or not). When I went to access the Blue wire from the temp. control, I, inadvertently, allowed the alligator clip to short out on the metal frame to which the temp. control is mounted. The clip is sheathed in rubber, but, unfortunately, there was just enough metal exposed to complete the ground. This happened BEFORE I was able to check for continuity between the Blue and the Red wire. As I noted earlier, once I got the rubber sheath squared away, I was able to complete the test with the above described results --- sans a short. I don't know if the short damaged the temp. control unit or not, I'll have to leave that up to you. All "looks" good on the PC board (no fried resistors, caps, or transistors). Is there a way to check the temp. control to see if I have damaged it? I'll be anxiously awaiting your input, Regards, Lance

Kelly, I haven't heard from you since my last missive, but while waiting, I disconnected the power from the frig. and, subsequently, disconnected the temp. control unit from the Blue, Orange, and ground wires. I then checked for continuity on the switch and found that there was zero continuity with the switch turned completely to the left (off) and varying resistance as I turned the dial clockwise, so I don't believe that I succeeded in frying the switch (I hope). I would still very much appreciate your feedback as concerns all, as well as the physical locations of the various part(s) that may need replacement (ie: the Bi-Metal Thermostat). I am very pleased with the information that you have provided so far, and hope to continue working with you until the job is completed. I'd like to try testing the thermostat with the control unit isolated; but to isolate the control unit, I believe that I'd have to jump the Blue and Orange wires that power it and I'm not sure that, by doing so, I'd come up with productive results. Nevertheless, I'll wait to hear from you and we can continue on from there. If you agree with the results of my test on the temp. unit, then I'm compelled to assume that the Bi-metal Thermostat is the culprit. If that is indeed the case, then I'm going to have to order a replacement ASAP. Needless to say, losing a day on this project (yesterday) does not favor my getting the job completed in as timely a fashion as I would have preferred, but I'm encouraged a bit by the results of testing the resistance in the control unit --- I hate taking backward steps as a result of carelessness. In conclusion to this note, I'd also appreciate it if you would be so kind as to define a "PTC relay," that's a new one for me. Also, I'd like to make it clear that $20 is but a drop in the bucket when compared to what I'd have to pay to have a technician make a house call and I have no qualms about sending a bit more your way for your assistance. Looking forward to hearing from you, Lance Kelly, I haven't heard from you since my last missive, but while waiting, I disconnected the power from the frig. and, subsequently, disconnected the temp. control unit from the Blue, Orange, and ground wires. I then checked for continuity on the switch and found that there was zero continuity with the switch turned completely to the left (off) and varying resistance as I turned the dial clockwise, so I don't believe that I succeeded in frying the switch (I hope). I would still very much appreciate your feedback as concerns all, as well as the physical locations of the various part(s) that may need replacement (ie: the Bi-Metal Thermostat). I am very pleased with the information that you have provided so far, and hope to continue working with you until the job is completed. I'd like to try testing the thermostat with the control unit isolated; but to isolate the control unit, I believe that I'd have to jump the Blue and Orange wires that power it and I'm not sure that, by doing so, I'd come up with productive results. Nevertheless, I'll wait to hear from you and we can continue on from there. If you agree with the results of my test on the temp. unit, then I'm compelled to assume that the Bi-metal Thermostat is the culprit. If that is indeed the case, then I'm going to have to order a replacement ASAP. Needless to say, losing a day on this project (yesterday) does not favor my getting the job completed in as timely a fashion as I would have preferred, but I'm encouraged a bit by the results of testing the resistance in the control unit --- I hate taking backward steps as a result of carelessness. In conclusion to this note, I'd also appreciate it if you would be so kind as to define a "PTC relay," that's a new one for me. Also, I'd like to make it clear that $20 is but a drop in the bucket when compared to what I'd have to pay to have a technician make a house call and I have no qualms about sending a bit more your way for your assistance. Looking forward to hearing from you, Lance

Morning Kelly, I can't believe that I'm getting such a late start today, but, due to my friendly back, I didn't get much sleep last night and had an errand that had to be attended to this AM. I'm now on the job and doing my best to digest all the info that you have been kind enough to send. According to your "transcript", I still have much to do in the way of trouble shooting and I will get on that as soon as I get done with this note. Here is where I stand at present ------- Yesterday (in addition to what I have related), I checked amperage on all wires connected to the compressor via the relay (obviously, with power on) and and didn't get a reading over 1.0 amps. There are three wires that I checked: one blue [descends from a four way clip (connector)] that leads up into the body of the frig), one white (from the cap.) and one silverish in color that originates from two spliced orange wires. One of the orange wires originates at the cap.and the other, again, originates from the previously noted four way clip. I then checked the capacitor (with power off) by pulling one lead off completely and working the other out far enough to get contact with my test probe. The first time that I tested, I noted a reading of 2.05 nF which spiked to 14.85 nF. After reversing the probes I noted a reading of 1.99 nF which spiked, again, to 14.85 nF. I left the unit OFF and allowed all to defrost in the freezer. I too, have too many things going on and had to depart for the rest of the afternoon. Please note that prior to retiring last evening, I powered up the unit and let it run overnight. This AM, I checked the freezer and found that the cubes in the ice tray, as well as a few water bottles that were left in, were all frozen; however the ice-maker is not cycling as there were no cubes in the collection bin. Although I have no way to quantify my observations, all fans seem to be running at full speed. I will now go through the rest of your check list (various voltages, etc) and will re-test the resistance in the thermostat --- the interior temp. of the BOTTOM of the freezer is now reading 58+ degrees. Although I'm sure that the top of the freezer is at least three to five degrees warmer, I will wait until it reaches 60 at the bottom before I test the therm. again. Taking into consideration the fact that my testing of the cap. did not result in a spike to infinity (OL), I'm wondering if I should have performed the test with the power on. I'll wait to hear from you before I take any action in that regard. If a "power off" test is acceptable, then I have to suspect that the capacitor may be defective as well (?). Please note, however, that when I powered the unit down yesterday, I heard the compressor "spin down" and when I re-established power I noted that the compressor got warm to the touch and copper tubing that goes up into the freezer was quite cool. My head is aspin, but will get with the "program" as soon as the temp. reaches a solid 60 to re-check the therm., then I'll go "power on" and check the voltages. I'll be checking back periodically to check for a response from you re: the cap (test with power on or off). Appreciating your patience with me, Lance Morning Kelly, I can't believe that I'm getting such a late start today, but, due to my friendly back, I didn't get much sleep last night and had an errand that had to be attended to this AM. I'm now on the job and doing my best to digest all the info that you have been kind enough to send. According to your "transcript", I still have much to do in the way of trouble shooting and I will get on that as soon as I get done with this note. Here is where I stand at present ------- Yesterday (in addition to what I have related), I checked amperage on all wires connected to the compressor via the relay (obviously, with power on) and and didn't get a reading over 1.0 amps. There are three wires that I checked: one blue [descends from a four way clip (connector)] that leads up into the body of the frig), one white (from the cap.) and one silverish in color that originates from two spliced orange wires. One of the orange wires originates at the cap.and the other, again, originates from the previously noted four way clip. I then checked the capacitor (with power off) by pulling one lead off completely and working the other out far enough to get contact with my test probe. The first time that I tested, I noted a reading of 2.05 nF which spiked to 14.85 nF. After reversing the probes I noted a reading of 1.99 nF which spiked, again, to 14.85 nF. I left the unit OFF and allowed all to defrost in the freezer. I too, have too many things going on and had to depart for the rest of the afternoon. Please note that prior to retiring last evening, I powered up the unit and let it run overnight. This AM, I checked the freezer and found that the cubes in the ice tray, as well as a few water bottles that were left in, were all frozen; however the ice-maker is not cycling as there were no cubes in the collection bin. Although I have no way to quantify my observations, all fans seem to be running at full speed. I will now go through the rest of your check list (various voltages, etc) and will re-test the resistance in the thermostat --- the interior temp. of the BOTTOM of the freezer is now reading 58+ degrees. Although I'm sure that the top of the freezer is at least three to five degrees warmer, I will wait until it reaches 60 at the bottom before I test the therm. again. Taking into consideration the fact that my testing of the cap. did not result in a spike to infinity (OL), I'm wondering if I should have performed the test with the power on. I'll wait to hear from you before I take any action in that regard. If a "power off" test is acceptable, then I have to suspect that the capacitor may be defective as well (?). Please note, however, that when I powered the unit down yesterday, I heard the compressor "spin down" and when I re-established power I noted that the compressor got warm to the touch and copper tubing that goes up into the freezer was quite cool. My head is aspin, but will get with the "program" as soon as the temp. reaches a solid 60 to re-check the therm., then I'll go "power on" and check the voltages. I'll be checking back periodically to check for a response from you re: the cap (test with power on or off). Appreciating your patience with me, Lance

Holy Cow Kelly, I am TOTALLY abashed in addition to being in extreme pain --- it seems that I've pulled something in my back while crawling around my infernal machine and it's killing me. Notwithstanding, my chagrin lies in the fact that I totally discounted the possibility that the evaporator in the back of the freezer may have been encased in ice. This has happened before and, as you noted from the beginning, the results were a frozen drain tube and water dripping from the bottom of the freezer compartment onto the floor. The volume of water that I noted from my earlier experience with frozen coils was much greater than I have observed as of late and it didn't show up in the cyclic fashion that it did about a year ago, which, at the time, I surmised was in keeping with the defrost cycle. Anyway, with that thought loitering in my sub-conscious, while I was waiting for the unit to warm up this AM, I thought to take a turkey baster and squirt some water through the slots in the back plate to be certain that the drain wasn't, in fact, plugged. The resulting water in the pan convinced me that the coils were NOT the problem; however, to keep busy, and still suspecting the Bi-Metal Thermostat to be the problem, I went to pull the back plates of the freezer off and found them to be frozen to the coils! I'm at my wit's end with this thing Kelly and can't tell you how much I wish that I had checked the coils first. I've presently got my, never far from reach, heating pad on my back and a blow dryer working to defrost the coils. Now the questions are --- WHY are the coils icing up, why did the drain tube remain open when it froze up a year ago, and is all of this just a symptom of something else? I'm loathe to re-assemble without knowing that there isn't a cause and effect syndrome going on here. I know that you've dedicated a great deal of your time to this project and please believe that I appreciate the attention that you've given to spelling out all the details to someone who only has a lay knowledge of refrigeration technology. Being certain that, at the very least, it would end up being a learning experience, I've never shied away from attacking any repair project ranging from all aspects of automotive repair, plumping, and home electrical to pulse width modulation --- BUT, this darned refrigerator has me totally stumped. If I don't hear back from you pretty soon, I'll have little choice but to re-assemble, compensate you for your time and efforts, and keep my fingers crossed. but, in the back of my mind, I'll be thinking that there has to be a cause and effect going on. It's 2:30 PM here in CA., if you receive this within the next hour or so, I'd really appreciate hearing what you think is going on. I truly hope that we don't have messages crossing themselves in the ether of cyberspace! Many thanks, Lance Holy Cow Kelly, I am TOTALLY abashed in addition to being in extreme pain --- it seems that I've pulled something in my back while crawling around my infernal machine and it's killing me. Notwithstanding, my chagrin lies in the fact that I totally discounted the possibility that the evaporator in the back of the freezer may have been encased in ice. This has happened before and, as you noted from the beginning, the results were a frozen drain tube and water dripping from the bottom of the freezer compartment onto the floor. The volume of water that I noted from my earlier experience with frozen coils was much greater than I have observed as of late and it didn't show up in the cyclic fashion that it did about a year ago, which, at the time, I surmised was in keeping with the defrost cycle. Anyway, with that thought loitering in my sub-conscious, while I was waiting for the unit to warm up this AM, I thought to take a turkey baster and squirt some water through the slots in the back plate to be certain that the drain wasn't, in fact, plugged. The resulting water in the pan convinced me that the coils were NOT the problem; however, to keep busy, and still suspecting the Bi-Metal Thermostat to be the problem, I went to pull the back plates of the freezer off and found them to be frozen to the coils! I'm at my wit's end with this thing Kelly and can't tell you how much I wish that I had checked the coils first. I've presently got my, never far from reach, heating pad on my back and a blow dryer working to defrost the coils. Now the questions are --- WHY are the coils icing up, why did the drain tube remain open when it froze up a year ago, and is all of this just a symptom of something else? I'm loathe to re-assemble without knowing that there isn't a cause and effect syndrome going on here. I know that you've dedicated a great deal of your time to this project and please believe that I appreciate the attention that you've given to spelling out all the details to someone who only has a lay knowledge of refrigeration technology. Being certain that, at the very least, it would end up being a learning experience, I've never shied away from attacking any repair project ranging from all aspects of automotive repair, plumping, and home electrical to pulse width modulation --- BUT, this darned refrigerator has me totally stumped. If I don't hear back from you pretty soon, I'll have little choice but to re-assemble, compensate you for your time and efforts, and keep my fingers crossed. but, in the back of my mind, I'll be thinking that there has to be a cause and effect going on. It's 2:30 PM here in CA., if you receive this within the next hour or so, I'd really appreciate hearing what you think is going on. I truly hope that we don't have messages crossing themselves in the ether of cyberspace! Many thanks, Lance