Need to know how to hook up to 220 power supply what wires go where we got a red wire,black,white, and green which is ground can u help?

There should be a diagram on the side of the motor showing you where to put the brown and white for 110/220 volt operation. Most new motors of this size are shipped strapped for 220v. The two hot wires will go to L1 and L2 and it doesn't matter which wire goes to which lug. For 220v you will usually have 2 black or 2 red wires and a green ground wire. If it is 110v supply, you will usually have a white and a black wire, and a green for ground. Hope this helps. Since you said you are hooking to 220v the brown and white should be on the correct lugs if this is a new motor.

depending on your local electrical code:and I see that the unit is 240 Volts A.C., then RED=Power/Black=POWER(L1 & L2)/WHITE="N"Neutral/and GREEN=SAFETY GROUND,on the new unit, then use from the wall power BLACK = L1 and White= L2. then on the unit RED=L1 and BLACK=L2(either way you hook these 2 up there isn't a polarity issue on these 2 wires) on the units hook-up/then use the BARE supply wire as neutral and tie BOTH WHITE and GREEN from the unit together to this BARE wire

Hi, this is very easy for you to do.The 12/2 Romex wire coming in is the power which you know. What you do need to know, is the voltage coming in? Sometimes they will use 12/2 Romex with ground for 220, 240, operation. You need to know if the T-stat is Line voltage 220, or 240 volt. You have to have the same voltage for both for it to control. Reguardless of the voltage, lets say it is in the 220 and up range. You take one of the 12/2 wires, white or black and hook it to the black or red on the T-stat and the white to the other one, red or black. Thats it, you are done! If the T-stat is 2-pole I am sure it is a high, Line votage T-stat. Best of Luck,
Shastalaker7

if you have a electric meter check the voltage coming out of the wall to be sure it is 220 v???? (meter across black and white)then with your meter only test black wire to ground and white wire to ground seperately you should have 110 from each wire to ground?
If you have only 110 to the black and no reading on the white, you either have a bad breaker or a 110v circuit
If you read 220v and you new heater is rated for 220v black to black and red to white wall thermostat or built in as long as you have 220v to your connection from the wall or your wall thermostat when turned higher than room temp.
Bare grounds tie together and mount to your green ground screw

Old plug: green is ground, white and blace are both hot power. New cooktop: green is ground, WHITE is COMMON, black and RED are hot power. You are going to need an electrician to run a new circuit and plug for your new cooktop.

If you are running a 120 volt line then there is no way it could run 240. Did you wire it yourself? A 240 would have a hook up in the box for a red hot wire, a black hot wire, a white neutral, and a green or copper ground wire.

A 120 would have a white neutral , a black hot, and a green or copper ground wire. It wired correctly, you may need to replace the capacitor. But be certain you have cut the power to the circuit off at the panel.

Next time don't lose the instructions.....

Black is your answer...

If just simply hooking the blue and black together with the black from the switch/power supply does not work you need to replace the wire going to the fan with a 12/3 wire(white,black,red,ground) along with a switch, what you have now is a 12/2(white,black,ground)


Here is the following way it should be hooked up using 12/3 romex to the fan from wall switch.
White,Black, ground power supply
Make sure 12/3 is fed to the fan location.
From the power you Y off the black to the red with a piece of red wire to the switch.
Then from the switch is red wire.
Then at the fan red connects to blue, black connects to black, white to white, and ground to ground.

 You have Red and Black HOT wires and a Green Neutral - That is 220 volts. From the wall - Black is Normally HOT and White is Neutral. That is 110 volts. If that is a typical household outlet, is will only supply a demand at about 15 amps while running at 110 volts. Your Cooktop will most likely demand somewhere around 50 amps at 220 volts. - Short Answer - You will need to have a 220 volt supply line ran to the cooktop from the breaker. Easy to do but dangerous if you are unfamiliar with high voltage. 

Hi
have we spoke before in previous post?
the red can go to any 12v live peramanent such as wire to clock or other item that has power with ignition off and the same with the yellow if your putting these to the same permanent live say from clock you can join these to together red/yellow to red on clock
the black can go to any metal or neg wire.
This should then have your device working the only problem im looking at for you now is the pink wire as this stops you using the device whilst driving as it goes to handbrake but i need to find out if its live or negative.
You could just wire the red/yellow to live and black to earth then see if it switches on and works if not then let me know and ill see about the pink wire ok
Makes sure you use inline fuses on the live wires so as not to short the device out.
Make sure you know what is permanent live to put the yellow/red wire to.
It doesnt need to be ignition it only says this so you cant use it with ignition off but you can wire it into any live feed from clock or switches so its up to you what to wire it to its just the pink wire im concerned about.

PINK: does it tell you to put it to live or earth on handbrake switch?

let me know ok