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Dryers have a Door latch that is female and the strike that is male. When the door is closed, the door latch hooks up to the strike and keep the door closed. PLEASE inspect these items. Also, make sure that the door is loose from the screws that hold it to the body.
First thing to check is if your door hinge has a sag to it. The next step if there is a sag is try adusting the screws that hold the hinge on the frame of the door sometimes these do come loose. and do require tightening. Folowing confirmation that there is no sag in the hinge your next step would to order a new door latch. If you are not mechanically capable of removing the front section of the machine you should call a technician
1. Unplug washer. 2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop. 3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub. 4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors. 5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do. 6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots. 7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer. 8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first. 9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
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I hope this helps you resolve the problem you may have. If you have questions along the way, or require further assistance please let me know.
As far as begin able to determine a visible flaw with the latch, the only part that you can check (that I know of) is the latching mechanism inside the slot in the door. The rest of the latch assembly is a sealed component, like an electronic module. There are a few connectors attached to it that you can check to see if they are making proper contact. You can access the rear of the latch by removing the to panel of the washer. Take the panel off by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. You should be able to see the connector by looking down behind the front panel on the right hand side. You can also use this as an alternate method of replacing the latch if you like.
No...the Main Computer (or CCU) is much more expensive than replacing the door latch. "Fdl" or "Fdu" are door latch errors and usually means the latch requires replacement. The following link explains how:
This is a very simple repair if you follow the steps provided. A replacment latch can be found at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. Just type in your complete model number in the search menu. If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS This does not mean that the CCU still may not have a fault. Its just much easier and less expensive to replace the latch first. More commonly, the latch is the culprit.
Go to searspartsdirect.com and type your model number in the “Search by Model Number” block.The part can be located under the “Door and Latch Parts heading as item number 7 (part number 8181700).If you need step-by-step instructions on how to replace, just follow the link below:
Im assuming that the part number youve mentioned is for the new door latch assy?? Unfortunately the problem could also be in the Main CCU. Ive had several of this design have intermittent door lock codes and not lock the door....It was the CCU in most. This washer should have a full years warranty for parts and labor. Perhaps the sears people didnt understand its still under warranty. I wouldnt want for you to waste your money on the door latch if it is the Main computer. Also you may want to remove the top of the machine and check the wiring connectors going to and from the CCU and the latch.
Fdl is a door latch error. What it means is that the Central Control Unit (CCU), which is the main computer, has lost communications with the door latch. If you can't hear the latch clicking when you try to start a wash, chances are the door latch is broken. Sometimes they will click, but the internal latching mechanism may be damaged. If the door latch fails to close, the washer will not begin a cycle. If you provide me with your model number (located along the inside of the door) I can get a part number, price and where you can get a replacement. I can also give you step-by-step instructions on how to replace the latch. This is a fairly simple problem that the do-it-yoursefler can accomplish with a little guidance. Let me know.
You don't have to remove door to remove panel.
Panel is held in by an outer plastic retainer which can be removed by carefully prying with a small screwdriver. I can be replaced by pushing it back in place after repair is completed.
If you cannot open door from the outside, remove cover and you can see latches. Pry up on latch which will let door open.
U have something stuck in your water pump u need a torx 20 and some hose clamps unplug the machine take the three torx screws off the toe panel put the hose clamps on the white plastic waterpumps hose that goes from the back of the pump to the bottom of the drum unscrew the pump to the left and pull out you can also use the toe panel to catch some of the water pull anthing out of it that u can and replace everything back try taht first