Question about Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

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Only lights and water dispenser are working on Maytag MSD2756DEW

Original problem was fridge side not cold enough. In the last couple weeks, it would stop cooling both fridge and freezer all together. I would bang on the upper right side with my fist and than it would kick back on. Following suggestions on this forum I replaced the Adaptive Defrost Control board, part #61005988. Now the only things that work are the interior lights and the water dispenser. No fan, no compressor. No cooling what so ever. Everything else is in melt down. Neither the old or new ADC board make a difference. I left it plugged in over night hoping it was just going through a defrost cycle or something and might wake up to it just chilling away, but no such luck. Could something have affected the white plastic overload relay located on the side of the compressor. The original part number I have for that is 4SP1034. But after researching this I find that it has been "upgraded" to something that looks very different and comes in a "kit" with several pieces to it instead of one, around $50. I've also found part #10377015 that looks like it is something internal to the overload/relay part and is much cheaper. Then I find other parts that look similar to the internal part but with many different part numbers. Apparently there are 2 parts internal to this original white piece, the relay and the overload. Anyway, would a defective over load switch cause my current problems? Please help! I'm very disappointed in this Maytag product. It seems they just don't make them like the used to. The Maytag repairman is in hiding these day. Oh, and on top of this, my water heater is going out too.
Thank you all, Vivian.

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  • bluesmoke59 Jul 13, 2008

    Inside the white plastic box 4SP1034 is the overload switch and the relay. Both pieces actually look fine physically. The relay is not a bi-metal part like the pic you sent. It is a positive temperature coefficient thermisor. Out of circuit, I measure 5.7 ohms across the thermistor/relay at ambient temperature. On the overload switch, I measure .7 ohms ( almost no resistance) between the spade that the blue wire clips to and the channel on the switch that acts as the jack to the center post on the compressor. Are these acurate measurements? I would like to know by troubleshooting/testing if the parts are bad, rather than spending $50-60 and waiting for it to arrive, and then still possibly having the same problems. What has me questioning this is the fact that condensor fan is not running. Looking at the schematic, I can see where this overload/relay combo part would effect the compressor, but why the fan as well?

  • bluesmoke59 Jul 13, 2008

    I would like to narrow down what is actually wrong with my fridge. After replacing the Adaptive Defrost board, the fridge was worse. I don't want to "buy and try" different parts as a troubleshooting method. Thanks for any help, Vivian.

  • bluesmoke59 Jul 13, 2008

    Please understand that I am not a refrigerator technician. I am someone who worked in tv and stereo repair in the past and have a fundamental knowledge of schematics and can use a multimeter. That said, again my problems really started after replacing the ADC. Before that all was fine except the fridge portion not quite as cold as it should be. I haven't gone any further at this point than starting with the schemtic, researching this forum, and using that information to pull and check the overload/relay. Those internal overload/relay parts are available separately should one or the other or both be bad. I would like to no how those are suppose to read/test before tearing the back off my freezer.

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Overload switch for sure,stops the fridge once you replace that,if it doesnt defrost change the bi-metal

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

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You can click here to find more ways to troubleshoot your appliance.

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

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