We have had two of these kettles and now the second one continues to boil and does not switch off, at £59.99 each, and House of Frazer will take nothing to do with it. I would not recommend anyone to buy these products.
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There can be several causes. In many cases the power switch is thermo or current tripped, It is like a thermo circuit breaker.
The power switch itself may have to be changed. The element is pulling too much current. The thermostat may be defective.
Contact the manufacture to find out where you can buy spare parts to try. You will require the proper connectors, and crimp tools to work inside of these. Also, you will require a sound knowledge of how these appliances work, and the safe way of servicing them.
Because of the way you asked the question, I would think you are not familiar with how to service these devices. I would suggest to give the kettle to a service rep, or to purchase a new one. There are safety issues when servicing appliances.
Please use a multimeter and check the continuity of the power cord , now switch on and test the coils resisitance. If there is no continuity then the coil is open and the element has to be changed.
You need to contact spares dept of murphy richards.
please check the link below for spares;
Unfortunately the problem is in the switch mechanism, and will need to be replaced to correct the problem. My sense is it would be cheaper to replace the kettle than trying to find somebody to repair it.
I think you would only solve this problem by cleaning the thermostat contacts, or replacing the thermostat which wouldn't be worthwhile as it's likely to be cheaper to buy a new kettle. Besides this , just getting into the kettle needs special 3 tongue screwdriver and then a certain technique to open it up without damaging the plastic parts. Im'e afraid its a throw-away world now and its not good .
Does the unit shut off only before the water boils, or does it shut off and on periodically? I just fixed my friend's WK200 Braun kettle. His would shut off and on, eventually coming to a boil. During normal operation, when you press the switch, it is connected to a rod which at its other end (ie the bottom of the kettle) is able to close the circuit allowing the current to pass through the heating element. In my friend's case, the contact had become weak - I just had to slightly bend the metal pole a little bit to provide a better contact when the switch was depressed. To repair the unit, I only needed a couple of torx screwdrivers and a voltmeter to measure continuity. (note, if you bend the metal pole too much, then the circuit will always be closed even when the switch is OFF - make sure you test for an open circuit when the switch is OFF)
Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.
The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.
My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues