Question about Rockford Fosgate P3001 Car Audio Amplifier

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Amp clickin in and out

Yes u just gave me some adivice about my amp clickin in and out i ran the remote straight to my fuse box so it got constant power just to see if it still did it and it fixed it but i dunno i dont want to burn my amp up what u think

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As long as there is power to the Remote terminal, the amp is on.
If the rest of the system is off, the amp probably won't suffer, but why take a chance. Also, it will drain your battery overnight.

Put a switch in there somewhere. Make sure you can cut the power.

Great job on the click fix.
This does change my view of your original problem though.
Your description covered every symptom of power starvation.

The Remote is the amps 'On' switch.
Put +12v to the Remote, the amp turns on.
It's how the head communicates with the amp.

If the head units Remote Out was experiencing either an intermittant connection to the amp (loose wire, intermittant short) or power fluxuations of it's own, that would produce symptoms similar to power starvation (clicking off, coming right back on). Only it would be random.

Your Bass vs. Volume observations would also have been random. They weren't. You were able to reproduce the problem at will.

You probably have a multimeter handy.

Since running a hot lead to the remote terminal on your amp stopped the constant 'restarting', the next step is checking the Remote wire (condition and voltage) going from the head to the amp.

Start at the amp. Connect the negative lead to a ground. Connect the positive lead to the remote wire coming from the head unit. I assume you disconnected it from the amp. It shouldn't matter.

When the head is on, it should be +12v.

With the meter still connected, slowly turn up the bass.
Then the volume. The voltage should remain constant no matter what.

This has been mostly FYI.
Rule #1: If it ain't broke, don't fixit.

Feel free to contact me with any other questions, problems or just to show off.

Great job
Mike

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

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I wired a 1200 watt amp kit with a 2x 12 inch box set. I have checked the fuses and they are fine. There is no power. What do I need to check next.


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sounds like the remote wire is shorted somewhere in it and needs to be replaced. You also need to be sure you are hooking it up to an ignition switch and not a constant I usually use the radio fuse in the fuse box.

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The led on my lxa 600 watt amp in my dodge magnum


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Sony Xplod amp no longer working


First i'm sure you have checked all fuses. Second you need to test if you have voltage coming out of the remote wire. If not and no fuses are blown then something shorted out internally and you need to run 12 volts to the remote wire on the amp. You can do this by using a switch and running a wire to it from your fuse box, or you can find which side of your fuse box is switchable, which means that when you turn your key to the on or accessories position that power will run to the remote then. Make sure you don't use the constant power side or your amp will remain on all the time. Now, if everything is fine and you have power on the remote wire coming from the head unit going to the amp and no fuses on the amp are blown then something is shorted inside the amp. Then I suggest you take it back where you bouhgt it if you bouhgt it at a store and your able to return it. Ifr this is not an option then I own my own amp repair business and if interested I can repair it for you cheaply. I am the cheapest you will find anywhere. Most of my customers are from this site. If interested send me a private message by clicking on my name. Hope this helps you out, let me know please so I can continue to assist you if you still need more help. Good luck

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1 Answer

Fan on amp runs constantly. will this drain my battery?


Yes, and would imply that the amp is powered up all the time.

You should correctly wire your system by

1.Connecting the constant 12vdc input wire to a constant 12vdc source to power the in-dash head units memory.

2.Connecting the switched 12vdc input wire to a switched 12vdc source to power the head units primary functions.

3.Connecting the remote output wire (typically a blue wire) from the in-dash head unit to the correct terminal on the amp, so the amp will only power up when the head unit is on.

4 Remember to run the signal (speaker) wires in a chase separated from the amps power wires, so as to avoid a buzzing noise in the speakers.

5. Always use an in-line fuse on the amp and the head units main power wires.

Note: A properly powered amp will produce a better sound quality then if it were under powered, so be sure to use the proper wire gauge as your amps power supply.

Good luck
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Sony xplod xm222 amplifier in honda crv1996.


the amp will have straight power (+) with a fuse inline
the amp will also get the blue and white wire from the radio(remote power,when the radio is turned on) to the "remote power in" on the amp.
and yes ,the high output audio of radio to high input audio on the amp.
your radio wiring http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/images/portal/cit_11221/93181526CRD3310A.pdf

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1 Answer

Green light, No Power


Disconnect the remote wire and make a jumper at the amp from the 12v + to the remote input and see if you get the same results. If yes, then you probably have a bad ground point. It might not be able to handle the transfer load it's receiveing. If no, then you have an issue with your remote wire or power wire. Check for any kinks or pinches in the wire.

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1 Answer

Amp neon lights wont turn off


There are two types of power that feed your amplifier. There is a constant power that connects directly to the battery and there's a remote power that usually connects to the remote power output of your deck. Some decks do not have the remote power output, but they have a power antenna output that works just as well.
The remote power is what enables the amplifier to turn off when the car's power turns off.
Either way, it sounds like you have the remote power input on the amp connected to your constant power source.
That would prevent the light from turning off with the car.
If you don't have a remote power or power antenna output on your deck, I would invest in a new one.
However, it is relatively easy to find a remote and a constant power source in your fuse box.
Purchase a fuse tap for a few cents and connect the remote power input on the amp to a power source in the fuse box that turns on and off with the ignition.
Some of the power sources you can find in your fuse box that go on and off with the ignition may be labeled something similar to the following:
ignition, power windows, radio, accessory, etc.
The constant power sources in your fuse box are the ones that don't power off with the car, such as the dome/interior light, power locks, battery, etc.
I hope that some of this helps out a little.

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1 Answer

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wouldn't be the first JL amp I saw fried...but there are some tests you can do. First of all, double check your fuses, they may appear to be fine, but sometimes they are blown even if you can't see it. Either blindly change them or test them for continuity with a digital multimeter. Also, disconnect the remote turnon and jump power directly over from the power wire to the remote terminal on the amp, if the amp powers on then you have to go double check your remote wire. Hope this helps.

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