Question about Rockford Fosgate P3001 Car Audio Amplifier

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Amp clickin in and out

Yes u just gave me some adivice about my amp clickin in and out i ran the remote straight to my fuse box so it got constant power just to see if it still did it and it fixed it but i dunno i dont want to burn my amp up what u think

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As long as there is power to the Remote terminal, the amp is on.
If the rest of the system is off, the amp probably won't suffer, but why take a chance. Also, it will drain your battery overnight.

Put a switch in there somewhere. Make sure you can cut the power.

Great job on the click fix.
This does change my view of your original problem though.
Your description covered every symptom of power starvation.

The Remote is the amps 'On' switch.
Put +12v to the Remote, the amp turns on.
It's how the head communicates with the amp.

If the head units Remote Out was experiencing either an intermittant connection to the amp (loose wire, intermittant short) or power fluxuations of it's own, that would produce symptoms similar to power starvation (clicking off, coming right back on). Only it would be random.

Your Bass vs. Volume observations would also have been random. They weren't. You were able to reproduce the problem at will.

You probably have a multimeter handy.

Since running a hot lead to the remote terminal on your amp stopped the constant 'restarting', the next step is checking the Remote wire (condition and voltage) going from the head to the amp.

Start at the amp. Connect the negative lead to a ground. Connect the positive lead to the remote wire coming from the head unit. I assume you disconnected it from the amp. It shouldn't matter.

When the head is on, it should be +12v.

With the meter still connected, slowly turn up the bass.
Then the volume. The voltage should remain constant no matter what.

This has been mostly FYI.
Rule #1: If it ain't broke, don't fixit.

Feel free to contact me with any other questions, problems or just to show off.

Great job
Mike

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

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Yes, and would imply that the amp is powered up all the time.

You should correctly wire your system by

1.Connecting the constant 12vdc input wire to a constant 12vdc source to power the in-dash head units memory.

2.Connecting the switched 12vdc input wire to a switched 12vdc source to power the head units primary functions.

3.Connecting the remote output wire (typically a blue wire) from the in-dash head unit to the correct terminal on the amp, so the amp will only power up when the head unit is on.

4 Remember to run the signal (speaker) wires in a chase separated from the amps power wires, so as to avoid a buzzing noise in the speakers.

5. Always use an in-line fuse on the amp and the head units main power wires.

Note: A properly powered amp will produce a better sound quality then if it were under powered, so be sure to use the proper wire gauge as your amps power supply.

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You need the red wire to so you can use accessory and to turn off your cd player when your vehicle turns off.

You need the yellow wire to keep all your settings stored. base/treble/time clock

Just a little clarification. Your amp turns on with the remote wire (blue) wire, if that is not hooked up you will get no power to the amp.

Here's the in-dash diagram to your vehicle at the bottom of this pdf.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf

You want to focus on N,O, and P

Do you happen to have an after market wiring harness? These can be bought from walmart for your vehicle. You just take the male end connect the colors together and plug end that goes to your cd player into the female end. Very easy to do.

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You could also have one of these fuses out under your hood, that might cause you to lose power to everything.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/4-6l-tech/32493d1188791176-2003-mustang-fuse-box-diagram-2003-enginefuseblock02.pdf

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Amp neon lights wont turn off


There are two types of power that feed your amplifier. There is a constant power that connects directly to the battery and there's a remote power that usually connects to the remote power output of your deck. Some decks do not have the remote power output, but they have a power antenna output that works just as well.
The remote power is what enables the amplifier to turn off when the car's power turns off.
Either way, it sounds like you have the remote power input on the amp connected to your constant power source.
That would prevent the light from turning off with the car.
If you don't have a remote power or power antenna output on your deck, I would invest in a new one.
However, it is relatively easy to find a remote and a constant power source in your fuse box.
Purchase a fuse tap for a few cents and connect the remote power input on the amp to a power source in the fuse box that turns on and off with the ignition.
Some of the power sources you can find in your fuse box that go on and off with the ignition may be labeled something similar to the following:
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The constant power sources in your fuse box are the ones that don't power off with the car, such as the dome/interior light, power locks, battery, etc.
I hope that some of this helps out a little.

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